Front Brake Caliper Sliding Pin Boot Replacement

I've removed the boots while cleaning and lubing the caliper slide pins before. It's not particularly difficult to remove and install the boots, especially if you lube them with a bit of silicone paste. You can slip the boot over the sliding pin bolt and the rubber boot will pop right in when you push it in and tighten the bolt, as long as it's got a bit of lube on it.

They are available from Amazon too:

ACDelco Professional 18K2417 Front Disc Brake Caliper Rubber Bushing Kit with Seals https://a.co/d/3kpA98E

SM-G781V ?

 

Yes the pin assembly bolt comes with the boot and the little metal frame that attaches it to the hole You reverse the process when you remove it with the new one and that's it everything will be good to go and fairly clean You need to run something in and out of the bore that the pin slides into. Clean all the rust and silicone grease mix with the q-tip or a small dowel or whatever it is you use then you can spray some brake cleaner in there and use a clean dowel and a paper towel to get all the rust and silicone out and then you can apply some new silicone or whatever your preference is I use green grease similar to what I lube the spindles with on the deck of my grass cutting machine anyway no matter very fast operation take you longer to get the wheel off.

 

Sil-Glyde Brake Lubricant works good with the pins, and on rubber bits.

 

Although five out of five posts in this thread so far have used the word 'silicone', it's worth a small plug that the grease Toyota uses there is a glycol grease thickened with lithium soap; it's red and they call it "rubber grease", and they have issued TSBs explicitly confirming they do not use silicone.

If you buy the rubber kit from the dealer (which includes the pin boots you want, plus piston boots and piston seals and the bleeder cap and misc bits, everything needed for two caliper rebuilds), it includes a little packet of the correct grease. If you buy a full tube it looks like this (but the little packet supplied in the kit should be plenty).



Of course if the OP said silicone based on knowing the brakes were worked on before and silicone was used instead of the specified stuff, then the choices are to continue with whatever stuff is in there from then, or clean it all thoroughly and go back to the specified stuff. Mixing greases usually isn't a great idea.

 

I am not the Toyota engineers, so I do not know why they repeatedly specify the glycol lithium-thickened grease and not silicone for those parts (even while at the same time they specify silicone greases for elsewhere on the brakes, and print clear diagrams with different arrows where each grease is to be used). I only know that they do.

I do know it is usually recommended not to mix greases of different types, so if a person chooses to use a silicone here instead of the specified glycol, it is probably best to carefully clean all the original glycol grease out, and then use the different grease consistently.

 

Which Permatex product? I’m not versed in chemistry by any means, but you definitely don’t want to use permatex anti-seize, the molybdenum rich paste. That is good for contact points between brake pad backs, shims and caliper though.

For the pin lube, read the nomenclature on the products carefully; and if there’s any mention of avoiding contact with rubber (for example), I’d avoid it. And Google, see what automotive communities say about individual products.

 

I wouldn't worry about it it's on a generation 3 and this is not a permanent vehicle by any means for anybody so I'm sure the product will be fine until the car is no more no worries It's nothing that's going to take the car out of service believe me.

 

I have a can of that exact permatex sitting right here on the shelf along with the regular anti-seize sitting right next to it by the same company along with the compound gasket coating and various and sundry other materials made by this company some of the stuff isn't even made anymore I kept a lot of the chemicals from the early '80s that we no longer can have anymore I have tetryl lead around here too.