PWR OUTLET blowing fuses

Check the outlet itself; unplug the socket, in the back and see if the fuse still blows.

 

Sounds like your outlet itself is having problems age etc I don't think they use a real good outlet there there are aftermarket ones that are pretty stout of course then you might want to upgrade the wiring to and from said outlet depending upon what it might be used for If I was using them a lot for things other than telephone chargers and a tablet I would probably upgrade the one under the dash and the passenger side and the one in the console just because run some I don't know heavier gauge wire from the whatever it is now 20 gauge or something and that should be good for a lifetime of camping and heavier use

 

Sometimes, like the handwritten labels in grandpa's fusebox, there can be one fuse in the car's fusebox that has a simple label like PWR but maybe serves a circuit with one or two other things on it as well. The electrical wiring diagram is the place to go if you don't easily find the problem, and need to find all the places to look.

Toyota Service Information and Where To Find It | PriusChat

 

Sidney,

Send me a PM and I will reply with a link to the full 2006-2009 Prius repair manual which includes the wiring diagrams that you need.

JeffD

 

I'm sure I can find a few videos for you to watch they won't be prius specific but just upgrading other 12 volt power outlets and boats mobile homes cars buses predominantly all 12 volts the bus might be 24 but no matter we're concerned with the 12 volt many people do this and run new wiring to a point where they can pick up a larger set of wires in camping applications many people will run a complete heavier gauge set of wiring right up to the battery for it whatever you choose to do for however much power you think you're going to need to draw and then the outlets are pretty universal they're available from lots of suppliers.

 

Toyota wires their power outlets for the rating they print on the outlets: 10 amps, or 120 watts. The wiring they use for this looks very skinny to people accustomed to home wiring, because modern car wiring uses a different kind of insulation, much thinner and higher-temperature capable, which also lets them use a smaller gauge of copper, and all of that saves weight in the wire harness.

As long as you're not attaching loads above the rating, the factory wiring should be adequate. One exception would be if you're not willing to tolerate the voltage drop in the factory wiring. If you measure the voltage at the outlet while drawing your maximum load, and it is lower than you want compared to a measurement at the fusebox, you could upsize the wiring for that reason. (I would probably just add my own fused connection and wiring from the battery if that were an issue for me; less work than redoing existing wires.)

 

Yep; old cheap tin lighter sockets tends to either short out or open. Two of three in my GMC doesn't work. One is open, the other shorts out, if I plug something into it - blows the fuse. Only got one good one that I can only use only when the truck is out of park. That's probably why it's the only surviving outlet. I gotta be careful not to smash it; when I throw the truck into park. One of these days, I'll get around to replacing them.

 

Like I say they make quality heavier duty 12 volt lighter type outlets and like Chapman said probably be better to just run your own wiring and fuse and all that It's so easy to do everything is so close no big deal If not why are the new one up as wired from the factory the ratings are pretty good and with a good quality outlet You shouldn't tax that and if you are then you need to upsize the wire and put in the fuse and run it straight to the battery and all that hoo-ha.

 

Good find! That'll do it....

 

Yeah you found your issue certainly don't want loose t-taps and all that kind of stuff on anything electrical actually.