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budget brake fix questions

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Seymour1, Mar 15, 2024.

  1. Seymour1

    Seymour1 Junior Member

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    I am new to this and the Prius world.
    So, I just bought a 2010 Prius IV with the understanding that the 200 volt battery needs replacing. 229,000 miles on the car. The previous owner was driving 2 years ago when the engine suddenly quit. It has been sitting for 2 years. I just heard a noise coming from the brake pump every 3 seconds. The dealer wants $4000 to fix the brakes. I cannot do that. Does a company make replacement master cylinders (booster) and booster pumps? If I drive with bad brakes, will it cause the engine to suddenly quit? Were the brake parts redesigned? What are the questions do I ask an ebay vendor to know if his parts are the redesigned brake parts or if the parts were removed from a car that was junked due to bad brakes? A man on youtube installed ebay parts that were bad and then replaced them a 2nd time with bad ebay parts. The new parts from Toyota are $1143 plus $1115= $2258 After I install parts myself, must I have Toyota dealer adjust "offset" and other adjustments? Do many mechanics have the proper tools?
    I am trying to love Toyota, but this makes it hard.
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Responded once but the car was probably possibly parked for other reasons these cars have issues with head gasket problems you'll get all the brakes fixed and you're right at the mileage for the head gasket to let go I mean directly at the mileage so it may have been parked for other reasons that weren't discussed you know people don't really like to talk a lot when they have something that they're trying to get rid of they let you do the talking etc or information is sparse on purpose It's your job to deduce that deflection I'm sorry this has happened to you but it's quite common actually in the car business and the car world with regular people and car dealers since no difference somebody trying to acquire money for something that they have that they're finished or tired with or don't want to fool with anymore information will be sparse purposely.
     
  3. MCCOHENS

    MCCOHENS Member

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    Seymour you are in the wrong forum. This is gen2, so you might get a better response in the correct forum.
     
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  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    How much has this cost you so far? It could be hybrid battery, brake booster and engine swap needed. Just concede defeat now, sell for scrap value?
     
    #4 Mendel Leisk, Mar 16, 2024
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2024
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  5. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Actually too funny You're in the right forum Just have the wrong car maybe fix that and you'll be golden Not trying to be smart or anything but seriously backpedal now and save everything else for the future whatever that might be because right now you're just be throwing money basically into the trash but there's always that I mean if you have enough money to throw in the trash then by all means please continue so we can read about it on the generation 3 forum
     
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  6. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    There were several different versions of that brake booster and they don't interchange.

    eBay is a terrible source for them because most of the ones offered are also worn out and the sellers generally have no idea which version they have.

    Nobody rebuilds them; there is no rebuild kit. The name of the game is making sure you're not the guy who takes the hit.

    I hate to say it, but it sounds like buying this particular car was a very bad decision. It's already got two of the four most expensive "usual" problems and it doesn't sound like anyone has looked for the other two yet (head gasket & air conditioner)
     
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I seem to remember one of the businesses that sometimes post on PriusChat (Hybrid Pit Stop, maybe?) offering either rebuilt ones, or a service to rebuild one you send in. That's all I know; I remember looking around for any details of what their 'rebuild' entails, but all I could find seemed more proprietary than forthcoming.
     
  8. Seymour1

    Seymour1 Junior Member

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    Thanks for the bad news. Yes. I made a bad decision. I have owned 10 Toyotas and have come to trust them. Plus, I blindly fell in love with the car and did not ask the right questions.
    I think we are not ready for hybrids, yet. The gas savings do not justify the huge costs of maintenance. The brake parts were replaced under warrenty in 2019 and have failed again. And, it needs a new hybrid battery or some modules (which I knew before purchasing).
     
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  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I don't see it being "hybrid" per se, more a case of car designs, of any ilk, rushed to market with insufficient testing, and the manufacturers feeling they've got license, when there's wholesale failure of designs, to tell customers to pound sand.

    Ralph Nader wrote a book once, "Unsafe at any Speed". Perhaps a similar book is needed, regarding cars rushed to market.
     
    #9 Mendel Leisk, Mar 23, 2024
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2024
  10. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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  11. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I would think if you've paid for those parts once already you should get with Toyota and see if there's anything that can be done they were new parts when you bought them I'm assuming I could be wrong I shouldn't have been that long ago now.
     
  12. Seymour1

    Seymour1 Junior Member

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    The work was done in 2019 under warrenty and for the previous owner. I did contact Toyota without recourse. It was my dream to buy the 2010 level IV, replace the hybrid battery and resell it to make $. Now, I will probably keep the car. I did find the correct parts from an online Toyota dealer for the 47050-47140 master cylinder for $541 plus tax and the 47070-47060 pump for $528 plus tax. My question is, which one of these parts fails the most often? Or, which fails first? Can either part be tested to find out if it is faulty? I am retired and have time to do the work. After I remove the part(s), I will know the work required and decide if it is worth the risk of doing over to save $550.
    BTY, I can see the pump label and it is orientated sideways and not long ways. According to one post, the new part should be mounted long ways.
    And, thanks for yor info.
     
  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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  14. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    You would want to test the parts on the vehicle with it still somewhat functioning with battery power and all that like you were going to drive maybe actually go for a drive what you want is a mechanic stethoscope good listening ears and some quiet when you stop You want to listen to the pieces the two pieces on the firewall and see if you can differentiate which piece is letting the fluid leak usually it's somewhere around the accumulator that's under high pressure The pump continuously runs to replace the pressure that is going somewhere with the car just sitting there generally speaking but any compromise in any part of the fluid system of the brakes will create a leak so to speak and something will bleed down then something will come on to pump it back up which is what you hear the pump running your job is to separate that out and figure out why the pump keeps coming on ie where the leak is. I would think it would be relegated to somewhere up on the firewall but before fluid moves to the calipers so when you're not touching the brakes I don't think your system is under any kind of pressure but I could be wrong The manual would help you sort that out once the pieces are off the car unless you have some kind of test rig to juice the pieces up on the bench you're just going to be sitting there looking at dumb pieces of aluminum.
     
  15. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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  16. Seymour1

    Seymour1 Junior Member

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    O K I have a stethascope. I will listen carefully to the noise.
    And, I am sorry that I got mixed up about the newer pump labels. I am still troubled that the newer parts failed so quickly.
     
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  17. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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  18. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I would be trouble too very much so thank God the solar roof 2010 generations read blew up before I started to work on the brakes which the lights were on the pedal was still fine and the person driving the car would have been gung ho to get that nonsense fixed and then the engine would have blown up right after that disastrous that's why I didn't get to working on the car very quickly because I knew pretty much the engine was going to be toast any minute thank God it was before I started working on the brakes now I have a persona here pretty much going the same way women owned people crying unhappy all that stuff just the way of the world.
     
  19. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Hybridpit.com will rebuild your brake booster/actuator/master cylinder for $550. They require you to ship yours in and have downtime. But it eliminates the problem of getting the wrong builtin ecu firmware.

    The prices you quoted for new seem too low. I would email or call the dealer (and only trust a Toyota dealer for these new parts) including your vin to verify.

    Installing can be difficult due to access. Even then you need Techstream or one of the few high end scanners like an XTool D8 to perform special master cylinder bleeding and associated calibrations.

    As others suggest, make sure you don’t have other high dollar problems waiting like head gasket/engine fail problems or hv battery. At some point repairs might cost more than the car is worth.
     
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  20. Seymour1

    Seymour1 Junior Member

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    The Toyota parts dept told me that the faulty brake parts were replaced in 2019. But then, the same dealer's service dept told me that the owner had opted to not have the brakes fixed (after the warrenty period). If I am lucky, maybe replacing just the master cylinder will fix it. The pump label is mounted the "good" way- sideways.
    I can cycle the battery modules, test and replace the ones that are the weakest. I will somehow find out if the head gasket is blown and then make a big decision.
    The good part is that the car has no rust and the inverter seems to work O.K. I drove the car 20 miles home after buying it.
    Are gen 2, gen 4 and gen 5's more dependable? My non-hybrid Toyotas and Hondas have lasted almost 300,000 miles.