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2010 Prius with coolant and spark plug issue

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Mellyman666, Aug 28, 2023.

  1. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Once you get that lower EGR cooler nut off (and the stud if you're ambitious), leave it off. With both those off you can remove the cooler without having to remove the rearmost stud. You will need to loosen a bolt on a gas tank vapour return line, shift it slightly for clearance. Another benefit: with the rear studs still on, they will keep the rear gasket (which has no clips) from falling down, into the nether regions behind the engine. Check out first two links in my signature for EGR tips.
     
  2. Mellyman666

    Mellyman666 Member

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    The three bolts are the ones eighth under the container where the coolant goes, holding down like rack looking thing that’s attached to a piece of the engine.
    The stud I just need to figure out how to get into that tiny area!
     
  3. Mellyman666

    Mellyman666 Member

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    And the stud if I’m ambitious? I’m not supposed to be removing the studs?! I literally wasted like 2h on one of them
     
  4. Mellyman666

    Mellyman666 Member

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    I removed the rear studs already, I’m only left with the one that’s like under a hose that’s attaching a metal rod (that’s holding the whole EGR system) to the engine. Will I lose the gasket you speak of with these two studs off?
     
  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    It’s hopefully still clinging. Get a hand underneath as you lift out the cooler.

    I presume it’s the nut on the lower bracket on the EGR cooler you’re struggling with. It can be done. I used a long handled ratchet with a swivel head, and a short extension, maybe 1.5”.

    You can actually get a finger on that nut, reaching around clockwise from the left side, with your left hand, while more or less lying on the engine. Having left hand on the nut helps to guide the socket onto nut with your other hand.

    again, once it’s off leave it off.

    if you haven’t already, read second link in my sig for tips on how to avoid any coolant spill.
     
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  6. Mellyman666

    Mellyman666 Member

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    @Mendel Leisk @rjparker @ASRDogman THANK YOU! You three have been life savers! Fixing this car is leading to be a huge learning experience…freak out cause something won’t work, fix that thing, get excited…something else doesn’t work lol

    I once again am on break, and in the freak out state. Got the EGR out and the pesky bolts I couldn’t get out. Now we have new problems and I’m really starting to wonder if I should continue or not.
    If I get down to the engine and it’s ruined, did I do this all for nothing? Or can I just swap engine at that point? Current problems are as follows:


    1. Unplugged this plug as mentioned in video, and when I did, coolant flowed out (SEE PHOTO). Coolant came out of tubes A and B when I undid tube B. Tube B was already undone at this point. The coolant had been drained (and I left the valve open over a day so there was really NO coolant left coming out). My question; this obviously isn’t normal as it didn’t happen in anyone else’s videos in their tutorials, and since the coolant should have been drained. Anyone know what this is a sign of/what I should do? Should I be worried! Is it fixable?

    2. this is what my coolant looks like. I heard of the famous milkshake texture. It’s fully liquid, no milkshake texture. But does the color of it tell us something worrisome?

    3. In this photo, I’m just wondering how the inside of this should look? There is black residue in all of them, but the residue is moist/wet and heavy in first from the left, and as it progresses to the fourth, it gets increasingly dry and sparse. In the fourth one there is a lot less and all dry (photo showing 1st from right and other photo showing last one out of 4). Is this normal?


    Once again I’m just hoping that as a complete newb to cars, that someone knowledgeable can help me try to figure out a bit more what is happening, if it’s dramatic or if it’s all fixable etc. Can’t really rely on any mechanic (as is clear from this whole story) and you guys have been life savers so thank you so much for that!!!
     

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  7. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    my opinion, go for the gen 4 engine swap. someone says it's much easier than a head gasket, and you have a much better engine
     
  8. Mellyman666

    Mellyman666 Member

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    Might be a dumb question but can I swap an engine myself? Without having a hoist and all the garage équipement and such? Cause at this point I feel I can’t really show up to a mechanic with all the stuff I already did and ask him to finish the job
     
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  9. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    You can always swap the engine. But you need help and a hoist of some kind. Many of the parts have to be used over again anyway. Even more so if you go the frankengine gen3/4 route. The problem with another used engine is it could be the same as yours. That is why rebuilt is the guaranteed solution.

    IMG_2846.jpeg

    The milkshake reference is oil with coolant in it.

    Hate to say it but the hardest parts are still a-head. Then a go no go. Putting it back together is a skill as well.

    What you are doing usually takes a mechanic with several years of experience, all the right tools and some help.
     
    #49 rjparker, Sep 9, 2023
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2023
  10. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    I think you can rent a hoist. Read through the gen 4 engine swap threads to see if it’s something you want to tackle
     
  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    For next time, see second link in my signature

    come to think of it, you’re doing the head gasket; step one should be draining the coolant.
     
  12. Mellyman666

    Mellyman666 Member

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    after 2 weeks off being out of the country, right back at the same issues I had before leaving. Having a really hard time removing the really big short rubber tubing shown at 10:25 on this video :

    I have the special clamps to remove tubing, any other advice? Having a hard time moving the clamp far enough to loosen the tubing and moving the actual tubing itself. Want to remove it without eating the rubber due to forcing it.
     
  13. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Spay silocone on and around the clamp so it will slide.
    Then take a hooked screwdriver and reach inside the hose to break it free from the then metal.
     
  14. Mr. F

    Mr. F Active Member

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    I slid the clamp to the right and then pulled the head up and to the left, cleanly disconnecting the hose in the process. You would first need to remove the 5 studs at the back connecting the head to the exhaust manifold.

    During reassembly you'll need a way to hold the new exhaust manifold gasket in place without those studs to help. I used thread through the 2 top bolt holes on the exhaust manifold to hang the gasket in position. Screwing the studs back in cuts the thread.
     
  15. Mellyman666

    Mellyman666 Member

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    Pardon my stupidity, but what bolts and studs are you referring to exactly? In the video they don’t really show all the processes for beginners like me, so I thought all they wanted was the hose pulled off lol here’s my current set up waiting for hose pulling
     

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  16. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    When @Ragingfit pulled his engine he (inadvertently) left the exhaust manifold attached to the engine, and it "just" cleared the windshield. Maybe that would work in reverse as well, make it easier for that gasket.

    Video series in kind of a weird location:

    Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v | PriusChat
    (Part 7, around 5:00)

    (pretty much same process as swapping engine on a regular gen 3)
     
  17. Mr. F

    Mr. F Active Member

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    The first image shows where the head connects to the exhaust manifold. There are 5 studs that go into the locations marked:
    head_labeled.jpg

    The studs pass through the exhaust manifold gasket and then the exhaust manifold here:
    manifold_labeled.jpg

    You can take the studs off with the same E8 external Torx socket that you use for the EGR studs.
     
  18. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Is that the revised Toyota head gasket, or someone elses?
     
  19. Mr. F

    Mr. F Active Member

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    That's the new one from Toyota.
     
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  20. Coots

    Coots Junior Member

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    I'm not sure if this is the case. My 2010 just blew it's head gasket at 245k. It had the updated intake manifold per the TSB. The EGR cooler and valve were brand new Toyota units. all with about 15-20k miles on them. I think the issue can be the head gasket itself. Toyota released a TSB with a revised gasket design.
     
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