Lots of lights, sometimes P0a93

So it would seem. Trying to connect with someone that has a decent scanner. The C1310 was not thrown the first time the problem happened (see above 3 ABS codes that may have been thrown then).

Do not understand the connection between ABS/Hybrid and inverter pump. Is one of those codes a red herring?

 

Yes, I've read that thread on counterfeit. I think mine would be called a knock off as it didn't pretend to be Toyota, but clearly is a 'Duralast' or 'Dorman' brand or something. Thanks for the parts store recommendations. I will proceed with that repair even though it doesn't make sense to overheat in Minnesota. Pump still needs to work.

 

OK - I guess that makes sense. It may have thrown that the last two times I had the pump fail, but I wasn't reading ABS codes at the time so I wouldn't have known. Still doesn't make sense to overheat when it is 35 degrees outside, but guess I'm glad to find it now rather then when it's 80.

Gonna go ahead and get the part and proceed to fix the known error.

My scanner acquaintance is down with COVID at the moment, so he said to check back mid or late this week.

 

You aren't kidding. Various online Toyota dealer parts stores sell that part from $85 to $219. That's a spread. Of course the $219 is in my city and the $85 doesn't have great reviews. Going with Olathe as it's on the lower end. Thank you again.

 

I ordered part 04000-32528 but they are telling me that's not right for my VIN.

Could that be true? Are there different parts for Gen 2 models?

 

G9020-47031 Is what they told me. I needed so I guess that's the part i'm ordering for sixty extra dollars.

 

I found several other threads but nothing really explained the price difference. One claimed
That possibly one of those part numbers is the kit with gasket and one is just the pump.

 

Update - now 311000 miles on the car (4k+ since problem in the OP).

I bought the Toyota part to replace the second Autozone part... BUT, the last time I checked the coolant fluid, it WAS GURGLING and I was having no Red Triangles. So, I was stumped - did I really need the part replacement? Then... life. So the part is in the back of the car, and I've done nothing and it's been "fine."

After no code since 2/11, it threw it again today. Almost 40 degrees, snow/slush and rainy again. About 2 hours of driving/idling while playing taxi for a child (mostly highway or idling while waiting). Then when I headed for home, got up to speed on a 65mph highway and BAM, red triangle was back.

Pulled off at a gas station. Checked oil - it was fine. Checked codes. This time P0a93 and a C1300 from ABS codes. Checked coolant - NO GURGLING.

So - I have intermittent gurgling, and before I dive in and replace the part I know is the likely culprit, I wonder if there is ANYTHING ELSE that could impede that pump when conditions are just right - rainy, slushy snow, temps just above freezing... anything?

Guess I just want to feel confident the part will fix the issue. If it was a blown fuse, it wouldn't be intermittent right? (no action in fuse box in years, haven't even cracked it open) How would I check anything else electrical?

I'm leaving the codes in there, in hopes that my friend with a better reader will be available soon for me to check on anything else logged.

 

But if that AM2 fuse is blown, the pump cannot work - right? So it would not be intermittent, but it couldn't work EVER if the fuse is blown.

I think I'm resigned to just replacing it and see what's next. If there's some strange wiring issue, or something when the weather is slushy and wet, I guess I'll find out eventually. I've got the part, so might as well put it in. Now if the weather will just cooperate again.

 

Probably a bad choice of words - I think "turbulence" is what I have seen used here, but I do think it makes a noise I can hear as I watch it bubble (at the moment it is still and silent). The inverter reservoir is properly filled and level remains stable.

I have not removed the plastic to check the ICE loop at all... I don't hear anything similar if I'm not opening and checking inside the inverter reservoir... My bad for choice of words.

 

OK - I was not able to connect with my acquaintance and get better scan results, but the new (Toyota) pump went in last night - thanks to my 24yo son. For my records, it went in at just over 312,000 miles. Drove about 5 miles today so far... but it's maybe 17 degrees out, so I don't expect any problems today unless my son forgot to reconnect something

Now, to see if Autozone will give me my money back for the faulty part with the lifetime warranty.

 

No problem at Autozone except they insisted on returning it to "cash" although I bought with credit. The location where I bought it didn't have enough paper money so I had to drive a bit to get paid. Anyway, so far so good while driving. Hope to close this chapter out.