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05 prius mysterious inverter issue after light bumps.

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by ChilledPotato, Apr 2, 2024.

  1. ChilledPotato

    ChilledPotato New Member

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    2005 Prius
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    I really don't know how to explain this so I'll do my best.

    Back story: bought her cheap because it was rough. i was desperate and it was the cheapest option available. Owned since 255k miles currently sitting at 280k miles. Of course with a high mileage car I expected a lot of issues but the only work I've done is replace the bad hybrid battery cells, the 12v, abs actuator, and inverter cooling pump. and she's ran fine within my standards. Getting around 40-46 mpg with a heavy foot.

    A few weeks ago doing my side jobs Makin deliveries I ran into an issue. I hit a speed table rated for 15 mph at 5mph. This set off the master warning light as well as disabling the cvt (was still able to drive however with little to no power) got it safely parked. Pulled out my scan tool (not perfect but it does read most of the system) and it was showing a code for inverter low performance (I don't have access to techstream so I don't know any of the 3 digit codes) saddened by this thinking I killed my inverter on insignificant bump. I left the car and came back to it the next day expecting to flat tow it the rest of the way home. However when I got in to put it in neutral, it went straight onto ready mode with no codes. I did not clear them. Drove it all the way home no problem. Decided to take a chance and continued to my side jobs because life is hard atm. I'm desperately poor and I'm barley keeping my head above the waters. The car ran... however every time I would hit the smallest bump. (Front end only) it would trigger the same warning same codes. I figured out if I simply unhooked the 12v and reconnected it that I could continue like normal. Yes I know. Not wise. Don't exactly have many options at my disposal. Few days go driving very conservative pissing off the local traffic. I hear a loud pop from the back. Master alarm went off cvt disabled. Could still drive. Knowing something different happened I pulled out the scan tool. And found codes for the negative relay stuck closed. Swapped the negative with the positive re read codes and said positive was stuck closed. Ok no problem. Ordered a relay off ebay. It arrived tested it resistant was perfect so installed. Cleared codes. Go to start car. It goes into ready mode for .5 seconds. You hear the 3 clicks In the back. But then master alarm goes off. No codes for the inverter. This time however I now have four completely different codes that I have never seen before.

    Current codes are:

    P3102, p3004, p0aa6, p3000

    I simply don't know how to approach this. At the same time. I wanted to ask what could come loose in the front of the car that could possibly cause issues.

    Trying to start the car now after getting new codes only results in 1 click in the back. Trying to unhook the 12v does nothing same 4 codes come back imitately. I fear this is the end of the road for me and my car. As since I don't have access to the right scan tools all I can do is speculate and hope for the best. I'm reluctantly typing all of this out because I'm lost and even though I know I may not find a solution through this form I'm willing to take a chance as what else can I do but hope maybe someone can point me to something possible. All feed back is appreciated. Thank you for taking time out of your day to help.
     
  2. ChilledPotato

    ChilledPotato New Member

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    Ok. Well small development. Let the car sit with the 12v un hooked. Reattached the 12v and she starts. Goes into ready. Ran pretty rough but I'm assuming it's from the hv battery being low. Engine ran fine after a 20 30 seconds. Engine does turn off after charging battery. As soon as I shut off. And turn it back on. I get 1 code. For the positive relay being stuck closed. But when I swap the relays this time. There is no change. And the resistance checks out on the relays. Clearing codes does nothing. But unhooking and rehooking the 12v will let the car go into ready mode and drive. I can leave it in park just fine. Car acts normally. But the 2nd I turn it off and back on there's an issue... I'm so lost
     
  3. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    P3000 – This code is set by the hybrid vehicle control ECU which means it heard from the battery ECU that there is a problem. (The P0AA6 below)

    P0AA6 – Hybrid Battery Voltage System Isolation Fault

    There are 5 sub-codes associated with this code but likely you have 526 and 612. 612 means the insulation resistance of the hybrid vehicle (HV) battery, battery ECU, system main relay, or system main resistor is low. As you had the negative relay issue (you've fixed) it is likely an issue to do with that rather than the normal electrolyte leak from a battery module that causes a pathway to chassis ground. Hopefully, it is to do with the relay, otherwise, you have a module (or two) replacement in the near future. That's assuming you have the 612 sub-code)

    When you disconnect the 12 V battery, you reset the P0AA6 so it allows you to start and drive the car for one drive session until the P0AA6 resets. Then no start again. So that explains that.

    P3004 – Power Cable Malfunction
    The high voltage fuse has blown out, the service plug grip is disconnected or the limiter resistance is cut off.
    This might be because of the relay failure you have already fixed. Possibly, check the high voltage fuse (in the service plug grip) and replace it if it is blown. Actually, it won't be that because if it was your car would not be starting and would throw a related code. It could be a residual code - is it still there?

    P3102 – Transmission Control ECU Malfunction
    There are 7 sub-codes for this code. Knowing which one you have will cut down the diagnostic effort.

    You could benefit from having the repair manual. If you Start a Conversation with @bwilson4web, he might be able to help you out with the RM for your model.
     
    #3 dolj, Apr 3, 2024
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2024
    Brian1954 likes this.
  4. BiomedO1

    BiomedO1 Senior Member

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    You've got an intermittent short circuit someplace. The dead giveaway is you frying a relay - excessive current draw will fry a relay. Going over a bump yields a code is also telling. Check your wiring. Perhaps a mouse has been chewing on them. Also double check everything in your traction battery pack. Maybe something shook loose and is intermittently grounding, when you replaced that bad module.

    Good Luck.
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Possibly ... but those relays in question are built to carry over a hundred amps routinely; for the kind of current needed to weld one closed, we would need to be talking about something a lot like a dead short in the high voltage wiring. That would probably be noticeably pyrotechnic,

    Also, the OP reports testing the relay reported stuck closed, and finding "the resistance checks out". That's where I would want to have the repair manual right in front of me reading the details ("DTC detection condition") of what the ECU really sees when it gives the verdict "relay stuck closed", and then thinking about how else it could see that.