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I can't figure it out Please help.

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Jimmy Cartrette, Apr 3, 2024.

  1. Jimmy Cartrette

    Jimmy Cartrette New Member

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    I have a 2012 Gen 3 Prius with 156,000 miles. The check hybrid system came on with codes P0171, P0101, P3191 and P0A0F. I have changed the coil packs and spark plugs. The 12 v battery, water pump, thermostat, and coolant thermostat. The engine has a medium rattling noise and then dies. After changing the spark plugs, it will stay on, but you can tell it is struggling a little, and behind the engine, it became bright red glowing. See the picture but it's not glowing as it cooled down. Once I noticed it, I turned it off, but you could hear a cracking noise from underneath. The red circle is where it was glowing. Can someone please assist?
     

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  2. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    About the only thing behind the engine that could be glowing red is the catalytic converter. Probably from being clogged up or way too much fuel.

    It appears you have circled the bottom bolt of the exhaust manifold heat shield. Just below it you can see a piece of the pipe connecting the top catalytic converter.
    IMG_4647.jpeg

    Here is a back view of an engine with the cat removed. IMG_4646.jpeg
     
    #2 rjparker, Apr 3, 2024
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2024
  3. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    Exhaust manifold in the photo? Looks mangled
    Maybe it’s been burning oil for a while and clogged the catalytic converter.

    maybe you forgot to plug in the maf sensor? Blockage somewhere
     
  4. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    More than likely you want to stop right now and not move much farther forward because there's no room to go forward that is without great expense generally speaking I mean if you want to play with it you could drop the converter off the manifold the exhaust manifold that is. And disconnected in the middle of the car whether it's bolted or you have to cut it it doesn't matter maybe you don't have the tool to cut it that's a problem. And then once you have that out you can look through it like the intercooler or the cooler for the EGR and see if you see light passing probably not so much It might be possible to flush it and clean it but probably not likely so then you need it pretty expensive catalytic converter and if you're in an emission state. You will need to make sure the new converter will actually play nice with the O2 sensors and make the light go off so you'll need a factory converter in those states they're expensive pretty much takes a dump on your whole ownership of the car as far as money goes. I've got two sitting right here with every problem on the planet they're just not worth fixing unfortunately. So there's those things I mean if the cars are really nice condition and really clean inside and all of that look at what they're selling for in your area even from the Toyota dealership relatively clean but running properly If you think you can fix it and sell it for that or what have you then I guess by all means go ahead but it never works out that way depending upon how long it takes you to fix and get it up to snuff a couple of months whatever prices are falling a little all of that's going on people are becoming aware of this problem and are quite gun shy of this particular series of vehicle but once the rattling starts things are starting to shake they will shake apart crack the center section mess up the girdle these are all parts of the open deck design and they're not real fun Good luck.
     
  5. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    These are the models that you want to be out of by 150K or else. And for some that's kind of a harder pill to swallow with a Toyota buy a new one the one you have drive it for 150K which for a lot of people is not really that long and then pawn it off to start all over again. Most people that I know that have own Toyotas good portions of their lives are expecting 350,000 mi or better like that's a cakewalk for most Toyotas but not this one or this series.
     
    Mendel Leisk likes this.
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    How long have you had; recent acquisition, or?

    Just judging from the codes, check the MAF? I’ll try to dig up something in a bit.
     
  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    info:
     

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  8. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    Georgia isn’t a carb state so you could replace the cat with a universal fit magnaflow catalytic converter but that’ll require welding. I’m not saying that’s the solution. I think testing the theory that the cat is blocked so dislodge it from the exhaust manifold is a good idea. Maf codes could mean all the exhaust is going back to the intake manifold via the egr. but that’d mean the egr valve is stuck open?

    MagnaFlow OEM Grade Federal / EPA Compliant Universal Catalytic Converter 51206
     
  9. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    A decent mechanic can check for blockage without removing it using a vacuum gauge on the engine or a pressure sensor in the upstream O2 sensor. It is possible to over fuel the cat as well.

    If a cat is needed

    No welding is necessary if you buy an oem cat/exhaust heat recirculation assembly for $1400 hatchback or $1800 v wagon.

    17410-37300 Prius
    17410-37553 Prius v

    Prius v
    IMG_4650.jpeg

    An aftermarket option for $500 is the Walker 16649. It is a dual cat direct fit for the tight space available. You keep the stock Exhaust Heat Recirc by cutting off the two oem cats. Walker claims their cat assembly can clamp on to the remaining Recirc pipe.

    Gen3 Prius and Prius v
    Walker 16649 Rock Auto or Amazon
    IMG_4651.jpeg

    I have seen this series of Walker keep the DTC off without any tricks. Lifespan is likely to be 1/3 to 1/2 of oem’s 20 years to lifetime expectancy IF the engine is not burning significant oil.
     
    #9 rjparker, Apr 4, 2024
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2024
  10. Jimmy Cartrette

    Jimmy Cartrette New Member

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    So I replaced the MAP sensor and reset the computer it seems to be revving now trying to switch from ECO to EV mode at load speeds and parked. When parked it still says Eco and not EV The vehicle is overheating a little but I think it's fixing itself as it drove better after opening the coolent cap. Also I'm not losing coolent. I use catalytic converter cleaner. Which had made shaking subside. I appreciate the feed back you all are amazing. Oh the Cat is no longer glowing. Any idea on the transition from ECO to EV failure?
     
  11. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    I can attest to the fact that the catalytic converter cleaners don’t work.
     
    kc410 likes this.