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P0A93 repair

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Higuxish, Apr 11, 2024.

  1. Higuxish

    Higuxish New Member

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    I know this has been asled a million times, but I was hoping for some confirmation of my thoughts. The P0A93 code popped up on my 2007 Prius a couple days ago. So far, I have confirmed a few things:
    1 - There is no turbulence in the coolant reservoir
    2 - When the engine is hot after the code reappears, it makes a sound:

    3 - When attempting to bleed any potential air bubbles from the line, nothing happens. I attach a tube, loosen the valve, open the reservoir, and the coolant only travels a couple inches. This is with the engine running, and loosening the valve by 2 full turns.
    4 - The AC is not cooling. In fact, just yesterday with an outside temperature of 80F, the vent was blowing colder air than the AC.

    Is it safe to say that the pump has failed and needs replaced, or is there anything else I should check first to confim (don't know what else could be causing all these issues simultaneously.)
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    You need to check the AM2 fuse in the fuse box under hood right behind and above the suspected pump rarely do people see much turbulence there isn't much water shouldn't be really squirting out of the bleed zerk fitting in front of and mounted to the inverter lowercase with the car and ready mode in park You should be able to stick your hand beside the headlight touch that pump and it's related hoses with one hand and feel it vibrating If it is doing that then you need to look under the cap again I'm being very quiet and not moving the car You should see a little bit of movement You can actually put your hand on the reservoir and probably feel the movement and vibration a little bit It's nothing like a river flowing or anything like that It's very subtle All we're asking this pump to do is very slowly push water out of the hot inverter through its upper radiator in the front of the car out the other end of that small radiator and back over to the other fitting on the pump if you will to make a loop I even use a complete different pump to do this job now It's been there sitting there about 2 years so almost anything will work. Not sure about the funny sounds I've ridden around on an 80° day without an inverter for 4 hours or 5 hours running my routes here in Central North Carolina without any cutting back of charging power or any funny business so it takes quite a bit of heat to get the inverter seriously hot enough to where it's going to throttle back power and start doing weird things I mean it has to get I don't know like 130° way hotter than I like to be touching with my hand and my hands are very old tired and beat up I didn't have my heat gun the day that or the times I was doing this but I guarantee you my inverter temps were every bit of 120°, it was 80° out and we were rolling the car 50 55 on State roads . Other than the heat which was an exceptionally hot nothing happened and we were stopping every 20 minutes at service calls and so on and so the car gets to cool down for a while and then we started again and go and nothing very uneventful we've done this in two vehicles they're still here and driving and of course they're fixed and everything's working fine now and still when I crack the bleeder the stuff doesn't come out like a geyser It barely bubbles over You see that there's no air and that's that and to be honest about it we never crack that bleeder I've done this like twice just to see what all the hubbub is about and never to use it again It's a self bleeding system for the most part the pump will run until it forces the air out then you hear it load up and start to move liquid when you hear the pump running and that airish noise in the line you just squeeze the line a couple times with the reservoir full and all of a sudden you hear Chug Chug Chug Chug Chug the pump slows down stays at its normal sound that you hear all the time and everything is lovely nothing had to be bled.
     
  3. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    If the AM2 fuse wasn't intact the car would not be running.
    Yes, it looks pretty much like that is a good place to start.
     
  4. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    It certainly sounds like the inverter pump has failed. I would suggest getting a Toyota pump from a reputable source for the most reliable repair.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  5. Higuxish

    Higuxish New Member

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    Thanks for the confirmations. I ordered a pump from RockAuto on Saturday, and it should be delivered today. It is an OEM part by Aisin, but because Toyota never got their hands on it to add their super fancy, expensive, and useful metal bracket (pretty sure that it gets removed and discarded anyway!), it only cost $95 instead of the Toyota MSRP of $216 (can anyone say profit margins?). Should be able to swap it in tonight.
     
  6. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Just undo the three gold bolts off of your pump pull the hoses off and sit the pump down on the bracket that you just left in the car that way you don't have to remove the bolts to take the bracket off the vehicle kind of a pain I always leave the bracket that's in the car in the car both the pump to the bracket with the three screws if I got a new bracket just throw it in the trash.
     
  7. Higuxish

    Higuxish New Member

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    Well, got the pump replaced after 4hrs of struggle. The pump itself was easy to replace, but I had to go get an impact driver to remove the plug and drain the coolant. Spent a few hours just struggling trying to get it off without a breaker bar.

    Pump is confirmed to be working, I can see turbulence in the reservoir, and I bled the air from it. The AC is not getting cold anymore (it was getting cold until around when I first saw the P0A93 code), although the fans are blowing. In fact today, I set the temperature to LO and the AC was warm, the vent was a little cooler than that, and the outside air was even colder - outside temp was 67-70. I ran the AC Self Diagnostic, and got codes B14 -21 (solar panel, ignored), -23, -33, and -43. Anyone able and willing to tell me how much I am screwed?
     
    #7 Higuxish, Apr 17, 2024
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2024
  8. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    You're not I don't think remember the codes clear them see if the air conditioner works now are you sure it's fully charged how much bubbles do you see in the sight glass when the compressor starts whirring.? The fat aluminum colored line should be getting cool?
     
  9. Higuxish

    Higuxish New Member

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    How to actually clear the codes? Is the easiest option to remove the hvac fuse (whichever it is)?

    Without having cleared them, I can't really tell if the compressor is kicking on. I don't see anything in the sight glass, and both lines going into it felt about the same. Also not sure which one you mean by fat, they both looked thin.