2007 AC Recharge

You must understand when you're looking at your system with the car off there's no high and low side The gauges should read the same about 90 lb maybe close to a hundred but the high and low side does not exist until the compressor kicks in and gas starts moving then the high and low sides are created maybe just use the low side of the system that's where you want to work You can only inject your gas on the low side as a regular non-mechanic It's dangerous to charge on the high side don't mess with that generally speaking

 

Not at this point.

Since the refrigerant and oil covers the compressor’s hv motor windings you want non-conductive hybrid oil.

You do not want to use any oil when doing a top off. Best practice and coldest air is after a vacuum followed by weighing in the refrigerant.

 

Motor windings have baked-on insulation (or they'd be immediate short circuits right from the factory, and never work!), so I'm not sure the conductivity of the oil is the property that really matters, at least at first. You can touch an insulated wire with conductive stuff and nothing happens, as long as the insulation is intact.

Now, if the oil is chemically constituted in such a way that it starts to change the integrity of the baked-on insulation....

 

Non conductive is the way to go

 

Your gauge is being used with other oils and fluids will make no difference when connected to the Prius The minimal amount of stuff left on the inside of the hoses and whatnot is not worth your worry I promise My gauges are used with several different kinds of gas they're indicated on the gauge but gases they get used with and so there's always that I don't mix any oils I put what goes in the given unit in there but then the gauge is may be used an hour later for a different gas and a different oil what's left lining the hoses is pretty much nothing that's why they hang straight up and down and anything that can be in

 

The reality is most refrigeration, residential ac or heat pump compressors that fail in less than twenty years are caused by contamination during install (poor brazing technique) and moisture, oils or mixed refrigerant types during leak top offs in residential and automotive. All of these are time bombs that occur years after poor practices are employed.

 

And probably even more important, non-attacking of the (already nonconductive) wire insulation.

 

Generally use 134a with no oil You could get 134a with dye but not oil but I may be hard to find usually you just inject your own dye if this is a thing. And nd 11 oil you can buy at auto parts stores. If you can't find it you can always go to Toyota or online other things have electric air conditioning compressors maybe not made exactly like the Toyota's but nonetheless.