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Intermittent Misfire With 2010 Prius

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Landon B, Jun 22, 2024.

  1. Landon B

    Landon B New Member

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    My 2010 Prius with approx. 250,000mi has been intermittently misfiring for the last 15-20,000mi. I’ve previously been unable to address the issue due to personal finances but with a new job I’m ready to tackle it again. Some info on the misfire; it’s very apparent with low traction battery charge and on cold start. Most notable on cold start WITH low traction battery charge. It is still noticeable while driving, but only in a specific RPM range (conveniently between low load and high load, hence why I’ve been able to skate by without going further into debt to fix it). My question is why might the charge state of the traction battery affect the misfire? Could this help me isolate the cause? I have a misfire code for cylinder 2 and am inclined to do further diag via coil swapping, however I’ve never done this on a Prius and am not sure if there are any special tricks. I’m fairly mechanically inclined but am always opened to outside advice.
     
  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Are you second owner, and if so: at what miles did you get it?

    A high miles (anything over 150K) 3rd gen, head gasket failure is pretty much a certainty.
     
  3. Landon B

    Landon B New Member

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    I fell into it at approx. 220k miles, third owner, second owner only had it for a short period. Dumped it onto me for cheap due to ABS light which was fixed as well as a P0420 which was fixed as well via cat replacement.
     
  4. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    At some point even though you're the third owner you're going to maybe realize this is not the one. And the one to be throwing money at but maybe it'll take a while. Yep misfire codes are common get your wiper gear out get your plugs out get an inspection camera and get to looking in your spark plug holes that's the first and fastest way to get somewhere in this situation or you can fire parts cannons and just replace stuff and go round and round in circles You can read all about it here plenty of it going on in the last many years You might want to spend more time looking for something better maybe to spend your money on just maybe.
     
  5. Landon B

    Landon B New Member

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    The vehicle market in my area is quite awful. If it comes to an engine replacement I would have that over finding another car. I changed plugs 20k miles ago. Next step is diag on coil plugs, any tips? Is there a diag mode I can put the car into to keep the engine running so I can coil swap?
     
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    The stop-leak product is losing effectiveness, virtually a certainty. Some are flushable, with a 50/50 water/vinegar mix.

    First and foremost, you need to deal with the head gasket. Boroscope inspection of the cylinders, preferably with the engine coolant system pressurized, will help diagnose. You're looking for tears of coolant, starting at the head gasket seam, running down the wall. Also, exceptionally clean piston tops, on the compromised cylinders (typically begins on cyl 1 or 2). If the boroscope inspection is done first thing in the morning, you may see a few tablespoons of coolant atop the pistons.

    How's the coolant level in the reservoir?

    How's the oil consumption?

    How's your mechanical aptitude, budget, and how much did the car cost you? This is probably most important; you might just want to sell it, with full disclosure.

    If you do keep it, and with the likelyhood that it's got the low tension piston rings and burning a fair bit of oil as well, a rebuilt engine might be best bet. Or get the gasket kit (~$200~250, includes head gasket), new head bolts (~$100?), and for oil consumption: either swap out the piston/rings (low tension rings were used till partway through 2014), or a new short block (~$2K, will have revised pistons/rings)
     
  7. Landon B

    Landon B New Member

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    I know a head gasket change is in the near future so I’m not too worried to that extent. I’m also quite sure that the head gasket is okay, I’ve had zero coolant loss, significant oil loss, likely due to me still choosing 0W-20 (next oil change will be 5W-30 as per Prius manual outside of the US) as well as a stubborn leaky tensioner gasket. My question revolves around testing coils, I don’t mind to manually test them as I have a multimeter and can check for continuity, however I do not know the spec resistance value. The easier option for me is on car testing via coil swapping, however I’m not sure how to accomplish this, as the misfire only specific to a certain RPM and traction battery state of charge. Thanks.
     
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    If you do stick with it, be sure to finish up by cleaning the EGR and intake manifold. You may want to replace the EGR components; the cooler will likely be so carbon-clogged that cleaning is impossible, and the EGR valve also clogged, and it’s internals damaged.

    ^ my 2 cents: it’s the EGR clogging that’s responsible for the head gasket failures. It’s very reliable.
     
  9. Landon B

    Landon B New Member

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    I agree, and am suspicious of this as the problem causing culprit of my misfire; however I would like to rule out coilpacks regardless. Any thoughts on testing?
     
  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Have this. If it's referencing other stuff let me know; I can look.
     

    Attached Files:

  11. Landon B

    Landon B New Member

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    This is fantastic! I’ll give this a look next week when I have time to put my hands back on the car. I will keep this thread updated after I test coils and inspect spark plugs. That will tell me my next step. I always like to run down the list of least invasive and quickest causes first. Hence why I’m putting off the borescope for now. I will likely do a preemptive head gasket change soon once my finances allow for it. Thanks again!
     
  12. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    The thing is meter testing is bound to be ok if the car usually runs good. You can do the coil and plug swapping shuffle and determine if the random misfire moves.

    However there is a fair amount of work to access them as the entire wiper system and mounting has to be removed. You might leave it off for a day or two while testing the swap.

    The only thing I have ever seen that was close to a misfire while a hv battery was low was pre-ignition/pinging from the engine. Pinging due to very low hp contribution from the hv battery. Even then the pinging engine was completely carboned up first due to excessive oil burning.
     
  13. Landon B

    Landon B New Member

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    This sounds equally likely, probably EGR related. And it’s not a big deal to me to take the wiper assembly out, I’ve done it enough that it’s only a small 10 minute inconvenience.