09 Prius throwing multiple codes

Usually all these communication codes and business lost communication with so-and-so and such and such is usually because there's not ample supply of 12 volt voltage and the necessary AH available to keep everything booted live and communicating just like your desktop at home when your power supply starts messing up on your desktop what happens well in case you haven't had that go on exactly basically what's happening in your car happens to your PC things stop working not communicating computer will have boot go to a blue or black screen on and on and on and on until you knew to look at your power supply you would be doing everything else and then someone would come along oh you just need a $24 power supply slap that on and smacking yourself in the forehead for 2 days everybody comes here with the 12 volt is perfect it's mine I own it we know it two three days go by of posting posting posting posting look at those posts I replaced the 12 volt and everything was fine All righty then.

 

I would look first at the P0A9E because it means something is overheating in your traction battery.

You have the P3000 because of the P0A9E, and you have the red carbang and the C1259 and C1310 because of the P3000.

The thinkdiag screenshots don't seem to show the U codes or some other stuff from that paper printout, so assuming the thinkdiag screens are more recent, I wouldn't be worrying now about the old stuff.

The P1116 and P1121 are still there and will take some attention to the engine cooling system, but that can wait until you have the battery temperature sorted.

The tire-pressure monitor codes can all be "who cares?" items until you have the more pressing stuff resolved.

 

Unfortunately when that fan is relegated to running full time no matter whether you've got it 70° in the car and it's 100 out and all of that usually you should be already shopping for a battery of whatever type rebuilt new whatever because that's generally where you're headed or you're going to be playing the whack-a-mole game and you have plenty of time so there's that but by the time you get the fan running full time usually you should have already been shopping and know what the plans going to be for the big battery generally speaking all of ours when we got the full fan operation on high speed pretty much anytime you got in the car we were also plummeting towards 39 mi to the gallon and ice engine on almost full time

 

The 2011 might have more potential problems than your Gen2 (or not). Both can have High Voltage battery problems, or brake actuator, or other things (cat theft). Gen3 is known for inverter problems, EGR system faults, or the occasional leaking head gasket.

At this point I only see a code from the HV battery ecu (P0A9E) for one of the battery temperature sensors having high resistance in the circuit.

Then there's the codes in the ECM for the Coolant Heat Storage system (P1121 and P1116). The "3-way" coolant control valve is very common for this (I only use parts from the dealer). I would also make sure the CHS pump actually runs after turning the car off or before the ICE starts the next morning.

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