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It just quits and goes into neutral.

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Wecandothat4u, Jun 23, 2024 at 7:55 PM.

  1. Wecandothat4u

    Wecandothat4u Junior Member

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    Gen 2 2005. I drive all day delivering packages for the USPS. It's amazing how much you can get in a Prius with only a drivers seat inside. I start the day when it is cool. No problems. AC blows cold. But as the outside temp rises, first the air conditioner slows and produces less cold. Then the car just quits and goes into neutral. High pitch squeal. Coast a bit and then it resets and will drive again. I have to stop using the AC and even then, the problem continues the on/off cycle. Only happens when the outside temp goes above 75. Codes: P0420, C1241, C2318 and B1826.

    Any ideas?
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I'll go out on a limb and guess that a different scan tool, one that can show all of the car's trouble codes, will show a list that includes P0A93. That's for when the car's power electronics get too warm because their cooling system isn't up to snuff, and electrical loads start to be shed for protection, starting with the A/C, to protect the electronics. When it gets to the point of giving up charging the 12 volt battery, that voltage drops, until codes like C1241 and C2318 show up.

    The P0420 is a different issue, that can be left for a different time.

    Here is a thread about which scan tools can show all of the trouble codes in a Prius:

    Gen2 OBD2 app review | PriusChat
     
    maleko likes this.
  3. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    The inverters probably getting too hot Cool it's not circulating through it that's the inlet and the outlet hoses and see the difference in temperature probably substantial
     
  4. Wecandothat4u

    Wecandothat4u Junior Member

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    I upgraded to a Foxwell some time back. Thought it was good enough. I'll check the ones you recommend.
     
    #4 Wecandothat4u, Jun 23, 2024 at 10:09 PM
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2024 at 10:16 PM
  5. Wecandothat4u

    Wecandothat4u Junior Member

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    This sounds likely. Not the same coolant as the engine, right? Is there another coolant fill/check for the inverter? Or in other words, how would one deal with that problem?
     
    #5 Wecandothat4u, Jun 23, 2024 at 10:11 PM
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2024 at 7:17 AM
  6. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    A Foxwell what? Inverter pump? If that's what you're talking about, it might pay to check it is still working.
     
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Scantool, I'm guessing.

    It's the same kind of coolant, but a separate loop. The reservoir for it is the plastic bottle nearly centered under the hood, stuck onto the side of the inverter. It's translucent plastic, so easy to see the level.

    In a gen 2, it's pretty easy to check the function of the pump by turning the car just ON (two button pushes, no brake) and looking down into that reservoir for ripples, signs that the coolant is moving.
     
  8. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    You're talking about a foxwell scanner I take it how do you like it does it work well Can it bleed the brakes in a Prius I haven't really looked that carefully it looks like they're a u t e l colognes as is top dog and a few others I think generally these things all run some basic software that companies kind of sort of tailor and put their own screens in and sell these things for $600 but I have seen several of the foxwell branded scanners running around locally I just haven't had time to ask the people how they like them and so on for maybe foxwell is something completely different in your market?.
     
  9. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    The temperature sensitivity strongly suggests a failed or failing inverter pump. You want to get that fixed before it gets so bad it blows a certain fuse, which results in a much less graceful shut off of the car. At that point if you replace the fuse it will just blow again. If you do change the inverter pump only use an OEM one, the aftermarket ones are notorious for their short lives. Buy the pump directly from a dealer, Amazon and Ebay are awash with "OEM" fakes. You can replace it yourself if you have some simple tools and a place to work. Search in this forum and you will find a very long thread discussing methods of replacing this part, and there are several videos on youtube.
     
  10. Wecandothat4u

    Wecandothat4u Junior Member

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    Correct. Scantool. I should have been more descriptive. It's an NT716 Four System Scanner. I wonder how I've missed that whole system before? Like they say... Too soon old, too late smart. I'll check to see if it's flowing and report back here.
    Good info. If needed, I'll likely start by taking the one off of my parts car.
     
  11. Wecandothat4u

    Wecandothat4u Junior Member

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    I tested and removed the pump. Definitely dead. Took the one out of my parts car and installed it. I won't really give it a good test until I work this Sunday, but am confident that the problem has been resolved. Thanks to all who helped.