Very hot rear discs after pad replacement

Funny, 12 volt battery is where I do "stray": when I last checked, and this is over 6 years back, my local dealership was asking $271 CDN for the Yuasa. Expect it's well over $300 now.

 

Yikes...don't say that! A few months ago, I got a quote of $208 at my dealership.....now I'm skeered to ask again!!

 

I can get the Yuasa from SaskBattery (in Saskatchewan, appropriately) for $229 CDN, no shipping charge, only GST (5%?), and no core charge. That works out to around $183 USD lol.

When you think, the Yuasa likely comes across the Pacific, then halfway 'cross the country to SaskBattery, and then back to me, for $229.

And, phoned Open Road Toyota (local) just now: $340 please...

 

So do the brakes on the Gen 4 have the same "X" requirement? (Our 2017's brakes are just fine but it's good to be prepared!)

 

If one can say "Yuasa from Saskbattery in Saskatchewan" 3 times real fast do they get an extra 5% discount?

 

This is why I will never use anything other than OEM pads on my "everyday" cars (or a VERY high quality "upper tier" pad if in a pinch):

 

I agree. A long time ago when i was into muscle cars more i saw a guy who did a lot of testing with braking systems on a mustang. He basically determined that since the brakes were a huge wear item like the tires on a track day car ($$$) he would test and see which ones held up well. He basically came to the conclusion that even though the oem rotors were triple the price to buy that in the long run they were much more cost effective to run than the random "performance" brands that you see all of the market which would warp and wear extremely fast. He did note that brands for rotors like centric premium did just as well and were a good substitute of almost as high a quality but at around 1/3 to 1/2 of the price. Pads wise he really just said street pads don't work on the track so make sure to swap when you get there lol. But from what we have found typically an oem supplier will do okay but not as well (depending on who they are and not always), but cost wise will make up for it. So like buying aisin or denso or akebono instead of the toyota part number version. If those aren't available i will typically suck it up and buy the toyota pn from a real source.

 

I can confirm that the Centric Premium rotors hold up well. I use them on my fun/track car.

I will also do that: source the OEM supplier and buy replacement parts from them. It's essentially an unbranded OEM part, though sometimes the OEMs do specify something different than the supplier branded part. Akebono. Aisin. Delphi. Denso. All good brands. I bought Delphi brand upper control arms for my Acura and they were essentially identical to OEM. Held up for years just like OEM.

 

Sorry-not-sorry to bump this - and I hope the OP got his problem sorted - but I've just stumbled across this thread and didn't see mention of an even simpler possibility that applied to me on my Gen2 after I had discs and pads replaced:

When things had warmed up a bit, I was getting a clunk from the rear-right wheel when driving that you could feel through the floor of the car. Jacked the car up and did the spin test and like the OP's bad wheel, it didn't spin very far and stopped at the same place on the wheel each time.
Having loosened up the wheel nuts a bit, the wheel span more freely. Turns out all I had to do was re-tighten the wheel nuts gradually / using the correct pattern and the problem went away. (I kept spin testing as I went just to make sure everything was even and put the car back on the floor when I thought things were sufficiently tight that the wheel wasn't going to shift.) It's the wheel that holds the disc firmly in position as I recall, so this all made sense in my mind.

Garage must not have been quite as careful as I was when bolting on the wheel.

 

We're taking our 2010 (~153,000 miles) Prius back the mechanic who replaced the rear pads and rotors 5,00 miles ago. They're under warranty for both parts and labor. Yesterday, a different shop changed the oil and noted that the left rear brakes were grinding. (See att'd photo of left rear rotor.) The right rear rotor looks OK). I've printed out the relevant portion of this thread to give to the brake mechanic.

Any other suggestions for what to ask the brake mechanic? As always, thanks for all the helpful advice.

 

Update: upon inspection, the inner brake pad is much thinner than the outer pad on the left rear wheel. The mechanic will install replacement parts on Fri. 21July2024 at no charge. I printed out the relevant portions of this thread for him, but English is his second language. The right rear wheel spun normally but the left rear stopped after maybe one revolution.

 

Send him a picture of the puck and pin orintation so he knows where to position
the puck so the resess parts align with the pins on the pad.

 

Yup! ......

 

Thanks, ASRDogman. The printout I gave him showed the "x" diagram. I'll have to check, though.

 

Sticking brake caliper slide pins can also cause uneven brake pad wear between inner and outer pads.

The slide pins should be removed, old lube removed, and relubed with non-petroleum based grease and reassembled.

SM-G781V ?

 

It could also be a problem of rust buildup in the slots on the bracket, underneath the hardware (thin metal clips that guide the "ears" on the pads. Lightly hit those grooves with a file to clear the rust and add some brake lube before putting on the clips. Make sure the pad freely moves in and out before you put it all back together.

 

This would be my guess. On my car the rear slide pins get seized pretty quick if I don't stay on top of it.