Roommate's Car - C1343

Generally here at this point you're replacing an actuator You can go through the 40 pages or whatever it is of the testing business generally it's all going to lead back to the actuator unless you see brake fluid on your back right rear backing plate pull the drum off see the brake fluid coming out of the line connection or the rubber boots on the end of the wheel cylinder You got nothing. It's going to come back to the actuator. You can buy them used online eBay in the 300 350 range The big places like the salvage yards and Conyers Georgia and some others have enough of these cars where they can send you one right out when it doesn't work Make sure you look at their fine print I've installed several used ones in all the cars are running fine and still working some are 3 years in so more than paid for themselves just in that one repair in the savings because the new one is going to be about $1,400 12 to 14.

 

Do not replace any more parts until you have done a complete diagnostics for that trouble code.

Did you get the Toyota service manual for C1343 and look at what triggers that code?

Have you followed the step by step process to troubleshoot that code?

 

Roll the car up on ramps it'll take you a whopping 20 minutes to look down the tray and look at all the brake lines If anything is compromised you seen it before on your Rover I've seen it before on a 93 Corolla right here in the southeast United States. So you know what that looks like and anywhere there's leaking brake fluid it's going to look like power steering fluid shiny oil but it's not it's glycol I understand but you'll see it If there's none of that going on then more than likely looking at your actuator and that's just the long and the short of it I've gotten actuators for 50 bucks at junk yards bought two at one time from a guy claiming to rebuild them I paid him for one and he sent two I used them both and they both worked flawlessly they're still working today can't find the guy on eBay or anything just vanish not even in my history is the funny thing it's weird. Typically on eBay from the junk yards down in the southeast they go for about 300 325 something like that. Realizing that many of these things have been replaced and then the hybrid battery goes bad and the person sends the car to the junkyard this is a real scenario that happens probably almost on a daily basis with these cars so a lot of these actuators if you look carefully some of them are looking brand new probably because they are I've bought a few rolling chassis for $700 or so was recently replaced hybrid batteries and door brake actuators like the receipts in the glove box or you can tell it by looking at the parts like brand new and the rest of the car is not and that sort of thing

 

C1343 isn't specifically a fluid-leakage code. It's a "hey, I'm having trouble holding the desired steady pressure in this line" code.

I do see that there are various INF codes, and the detection condition/trouble area table says "fluid leakage / actuator / disc rotor" for some of them, and only "fluid leakage / actuator" for others (including the INF code the OP has).

However, the troubleshooting instructions don't make that distinction, and give the same set of tests for all cases. Leakage is one thing to look for, then the wiring between actuator and skid ECU, and then the believability of the pressure sensor reading for the affected line.

If it were me, I might rearrange the order a little. Checking all the wiring connections sounds tedious. I might go ahead and check for sane sensor readings first. If the readings are ok, I might skip checking the wiring (unless I suspect an intermittent).

The official check for a sane pressure sensor reading involves plumbing in an LSPV gauge so you can compare the reading to what the gauge says. But that's a PITA and who's got an LSPV gauge lying around? Of course you can approximate the test by just watching the sensor readings while you step on the brake with a few different levels of force. (How do you know you're applying 1, 3, 7, or 10 MPa of pressure? Well, you don't, but shucks, the code is only complaining about one of the pressure readings, so you can watch the other three and see if the right rear is in the same ballpark, or what it looks like it's doing instead.)

They also have a pretty easy test for a wobbly rotor. That can lead to the code because the pressure wobbles as the rotor turns.

In old-fashioned cars, a wobbly rotor is something you'll feel through the brake pedal, but the Prius ECB does such a good job masking it that you don't. So what does Toyota suggest? Just unplugging the pedal stroke sensor. That's enough to set another code where ECB won't try to operate, et voilà, if the rotor wobbles you can feel it in the pedal!

 

As Chapman suggests, clear the code and look at the data. See if both rear sensors show "the same" while pressing on the brakes (both standing still and while moving - record the data to check it while not driving).



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