Is bleeding the stroke simulator the same as ABS air bleed?

Techstream has a menu with two different bleed procedures. One is shorter, and appropriate when the only work that has been done is at the wheel ends of the brake lines. The other is more thorough, and has to be used if the underhood brake components have been replaces or their connections opened.

The more-thorough one is called 'ABS actuator has been replaced" on the Techstream menu. (If you are using some other scan tool, it's called whatever that scan tool calls it.)

That longer bleed procedure will guide you through several steps. Bleeding the stroke simulator will be one of those steps.

The bleed screw on the stroke simulator is only accessible with the windshield wipers and cowl removed, so it is good to remove those before starting the whole bleed procedure, so you aren't slowed down mid-procedure by having to do that.

Linear solenoid offset learning is its own thing. It normally happens automagically at the end of the long-form bleeding process, but sometimes it won't 'learn' on the first try, and then there will be a C1345 code saying you have to do it over. There is a procedure to request just the linear solenoid offset learning by itself.

"Zero point calibration" is ambiguous. There are several things in the car that have zero points that can be calibrated. In the brake / ABS / skid control system, there's a pedal stroke sensor zero point, a yaw rate and acceleration sensor zero point, and a steering angle sensor zero point. The steering angle zero point gets found automagically, as long as the yaw sensor zero point is calibrated right and the wheel speed sensors are ok.

On the other hand, if you have the parking assist feature, that has its own steering angle sensor zero point calibration that isn't automagic.

 

And the generation 3 it looks like even if you're real careful and you block off the reservoir and all of the other things like I do on the generation too on the generation 3 because you're removing two components you're going to lose all of the fluid that's in the piping going to these two components plus obviously the fluid that's in the two components so now when you replace those with the brand new two pieces that you're suggested to buy from wherever you get them you have to fill up those two blocks of aluminum and all their valleys and ways in order to get the system bled out I don't think you have good enough access to do the things the way I've done it in a generation too so you're going to generally use a lot of brake fluid and all of that stuff to get it back to where it was when it was correct but you'll get it let's just seemingly nothing like the job on the earlier model two.