Water Pump

I'm really feeling that way too. If yours hasn't continued to malfunction further that helps ease me slightly. I did start driving the car again but w/o AC which I learned isn't great either. So my next step is still clean battery fan and proceed to monitor the engine cooling fan. I don't think I feel that much better about running ac. Is there an ohms test I can do to check the engine fans quality?

I'll likely replace it if a non oem fan is ok. Then continue to monitor to see if that changed it. It's a really big deal to not spend double which is $70 more for comfort of oem to preserve my car with a part I may not need? I'm really glad this site and all of you are here to assist with this process. Thanks.

 

Ohms test I don't know. Brush-commutated motors are pretty electrically sloppy, hard to say what one'll show on an ohmmeter standing still.

Often what you'll find specified as a fan or other motor test is the running current. That should settle down to a more meaningful measurement, once the fan has spun up.

Annnnd, yup, that's what they put in the manual:



They're assuming you have a Hall-effect DC current clamp you can clamp around the wire.

If you don't have one of those, given the expected current range, you might get away with using your 20 amp or better ordinary ammeter in series, but you might want a way to bring the voltage up slowly, because if you just connect 12 V all at once, the fan's initial current draw will be much more than 4.7 to 8.7 A.