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P0AA6 code, Combo Meter, MFD Replacement, Reconditioning questions

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by TampaToma, Jul 23, 2024 at 10:35 AM.

  1. TampaToma

    TampaToma Junior Member

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    ok I replaced the 12V battery, but I'm still having some issues with my car. I'm getting the P0AA6 code. I used the Dr. Prius app to test the life of the battery and it said 35% which I know is not good at all. I may run another test later tonight, and run the more detailed test to see what I can come up with. The car was sitting for a while in the Florida heat, so I know the battery doesn't like that. I hope driving it around a few times might revive it a bit.

    On top of that, my dash lights have gone out. This happened once before a few years ago and somehow it turned back on again, but now they are out again. I know it's related to the Combo Meter, and I'm aware I can get one from Texas Hybrids online. I also found a repair service here in Fl that can do it for $40 + shipping so I might go that route to save some dough.

    Also my MFD is out and has been out for a while so that has been driving me crazy and I've been wanting to replace it for a while. I think it's the sunburst issue. I can see it barely at night sometimes, but during the day it's impossible to see anything. If I have to do the Combo Meter I might as well do them both at the same time. What is the best source for MFDs? When I researched it a few years ago I found a few people you could ship them to and they will repair and ship back, but I'm also open to either getting a new one if possible or used on Ebay. I have the touring edition so I know I have to make sure I get the right MFD for my car. 86110-47220 7 keys, US version with navigation and Bluetooth. Or I heard 86110-47260 also works.

    So yeah I'm hoping the hybrid battery will last until I can get my hands on the new sodium batteries. Do you think I should attempt a reconditioning on the hybrid battery before then? If so what is the best method for this? I've been wanting to learn how to do this for a while. If I can invest in conditioning tools that will also be compatible with my new sodium battery that would be ideal.
     
    #1 TampaToma, Jul 23, 2024 at 10:35 AM
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2024 at 1:38 PM
  2. TampaToma

    TampaToma Junior Member

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    UPDATE: I drove the car today and the dash lights came back on just like last time so that's at least some good news
     
  3. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    if the battery isn't throwing any codes yet, get the prolong charger from hybrid automotive
     
    #3 bisco, Jul 23, 2024 at 3:00 PM
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2024 at 8:58 PM
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  4. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Active Member

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    The Prolong system will not fix a P0AA6 battery isolation fault problem.
     
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  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    thanks, that settles it then!
     
  6. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Yeah just pop open the case you'll probably see the isolation problem fix that and then roll with it the MFD you can buy I just got two of them come in and two cars. But the seven button MFD is a premium you'll pay for that one people think they've got a gold mine they're looking to get $400 for them and stuff online luckily none of mine have gone out and I've gotten a few overtime that I've turned around and sold the guts out of and all of that sort of thing one of these days another one of those are rolling and I'll just put it up but usually mama destroys the whole car not the MFD
     
  7. TampaToma

    TampaToma Junior Member

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    When I did my quick research on this code I found that it's somewhat difficult to diagnose because it could be pointing to one of several potential issues, so unless I take it to a mechanic with a better scanner it will be hard for me to know with certainty what the exact issue is. Also I recall seeing this code before several years ago around 4 years ago when I first had issues with the 12V battery, and once I got the new battery in there the code went away and never came back. My car has been driving relatively problem free for 4 years so that's why I'm slow to rush it over to a mechanic who might suggest all sorts of repairs that may not actually be needed. Do you have any other insight on this code you could share?
     
  8. TampaToma

    TampaToma Junior Member

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    Thanks, yeah I looked into doing this years ago, so I'm familiar with the product. I thought maybe there would be something better on the market by now, and I know there's a better one out there that is more expensive but I forget the name. I would want to install it in the car with the battery so I could trickle charge it every so often, or take a weekend and do my own reconditioning from time to time. I was actually going to upgrade to the lithium battery a few years ago and I've just been procrastinating on it, and now that they have a new tech coming out soon I want to wait for it. My thought is to keep my old hybrid battery around as a backup if needed, and replace any bad cells if I can learn how to do all of this. Or maybe just replace bad cells and recondition / rebalance it and sell it for cheap with a full disclosure and disclaimer. What would you do?
     
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  9. TampaToma

    TampaToma Junior Member

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    What would I be looking for in regards to the isolation problem?
     
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  10. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Active Member

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    You need a scan tool that will give you the INF (detail code) for the trouble code P0AA6. Knowing the INF will narrow down the area of the car that has the battery isolation fault. Two scan tools listed in this thread can read INF: https://priuschat.com/index.php?posts/3290690

    The other option is to get Techstream.
     
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  11. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    how many miles on her?
    there are lots of threads here on replacing bad modules and balancing with a hobby charger.
    open the battery case and check for corrosion. that is often a place that leads to the code.
     
  12. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    A scan tool that will show you the P0AA6 code's three-digit INF codes will save you time, because that will tell you right off which of these four areas of the car you need to look in for the problem. The repair manual has a bunch of troubleshooting steps, and based on the INF code you can jump to the right step so you get the answer in as few steps as possible.

    [​IMG]

    If you can't get the INF codes, all is not lost; you just start at the top of the troubleshooting steps and go through them like an animal.

    In the earliest Prius generation, before those INF codes were available, you could narrow things down by doing sort of a careful startup sequence. After clearing the code, if it comes back as soon as the car is next IG ON (before even going READY), the fault is in the battery (what would now be INF 612). If you shift to neutral, make sure the A/C is off, and then go READY and the code comes back, think INF 614. If it doesn't come back till you select a gear, 613. If it doesn't come back till you run the A/C, 611.

    Of course that little decision tree is what the later-generation cars do for you automatically, the next time you try to start after a P0AA6-526 has been stored, and then automatically store the 611, 612, 613, or 614 code for you so you don't have to go through that.
     
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  13. TampaToma

    TampaToma Junior Member

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    UPDATE! I performed another Dr. Prius Life Expectancy test last night and it came up with 58% so that has relieved my stress about the hybrid battery a bit, and all other signs point that the battery still has some life in her yet. When I ran the test the first time it seemed to glitch out prematurely and gave me the 35% result. Maybe this glitch has something to do with the P0AA6 code? If that code does show up again I will immediately take it to my mechanic to check the codes.
     
  14. TampaToma

    TampaToma Junior Member

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    150K miles. I bought it about 5 years ago with 120k miles for a steal of $3800 from a used dealership that doesn't usually sell priuses and he just wanted to get rid of it off the lot. The previous owner was a heavy cigarette or cigar smoker, so the interior had an awful smell, so I bought an ozone generator for $60 and after two treatments the smell was barely detectable and after another it was totally gone. I love my car and am perfectly happy to invest some $$$ into it at this point. I did all the research at the time and wanted a 2009 touring with the dark leather seats and JBL. The local used Prius dealership here in Tampa would've sold this car for $9-10K so I figured even if I have to replace the ABS module and get a new hybrid battery it was still worth it. The 12V (twice), inverter pump, and headlights are the only repairs I've had to do in this time.
     
  15. TampaToma

    TampaToma Junior Member

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    Thank you so much for this VERY helpful reply. If the code pops up again I will certainty take it to my mechanic to read the code in more depth.
     
  16. TampaToma

    TampaToma Junior Member

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    I noticed that no one had any input on my idea of keeping the original battery as a backup if I get the new sodium battery. Is this a feasible idea? How often do you think I would have to recondition / recharge it to keep it in viable shape? I'm thinking once a month. Do the same chargers such as the Prolong mentioned earlier also work on the new Sodium battery? I would assume so...

    Also what's the 411 on the Lithium project? I know it's been a hot topic here in the past. I heard at least one car caught fire from it, but other than that has it been generally reliable? It seems like they are discontinuing them in favor of the new Sodium variant. I'm just curious to get some general feedback here.
     
  17. TampaToma

    TampaToma Junior Member

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    Regarding the MFD, I realized I can just buy the replacement digitizer for about $16 on EBAY and do the repair myself. WOW

    EDIT: I think this won't work because I need to replace the entire LCD and not just the digitizer. I'm a little confused by this. Can anyone shed some light? I'll try to dig through some other threads
     
    #17 TampaToma, Jul 24, 2024 at 9:24 AM
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2024 at 1:16 PM
  18. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    I would be surprised if the same charger worked on both chemistries.

    Furthermore, You should not be doing any battery work on a new battery (of any chemistry) for the first 8 to 10 years.
    Let us know how it all goes.
     
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  19. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    This is a generation too Why would you not just grab another MFD they're like free I just got two cars with perfect ones installed in them that I'm parting out and putting the parts up a complete new like leather interior and tan which I need for my work vehicle etc etc but yeah you can buy the digitizer and you can do all that work and then it may not work or you can grab one out of another car that's working that you can see working right in front of you and take it with you a lot of places it might cost you nothing when I go to places like LKQ and I see an MFD especially the seven button I take the plastic trim off of it and the buttons off of it I don't need that nonsense I need the the sandwich where the plugs go all the way to the screen and usually when I walk up with just the silver screen and the plug cut hanging out the back and what have you there like no charge put that to the side and then they charge me for what they really understand in identify It's kind of funny actually
     
  20. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Battery juice battery liquid touching the frame of the battery which in turn grounds to the frame of the car look at how the batteries bolted down which causes the HV isolation fault basically you're 211 volt HV battery is bleeding voltage over to the 12 volt ground point of your car wreaking havoc on I imagine computers connections the gateway and all of that so any battery acid any of the little tiny what is it 6 or 8 mm screws that hold the modules down to the tray if those are screwed in too tightly they can compromise the plastic that they're screwed into and battery acid can leak to the head of the screw or the tip of the screw which is inside of where you screwed it and now it's running to ground through the chassis that you're holding down the module to which is the bottom plate of the frame of the battery. Even when I picked up my hold HV battery and slid a 2-in thick rubber mat underneath the battery holding it up off of the metal floor of the car and everything I still had a battery isolation fault Don't care how it was happening or any of that but I could make the car drive. Soon as I change the battery all that was gone The battery at the time was I don't know 13 14 years old.