Redoing the battery.

Rebuilt Batteries are only a temporary fix.

 

that's what makes them so much fun!

 

"Temporary" has quite a wide tolerance. Sometimes 1 month...sometimes 5+ years
On a tight budget, that one module can be replaced, and that battery may last a while. You never know until you try.

 

Odd values on the bottom. The internal resistance is exactly the same on all modules, even the one which has a very low voltage. The bad one also has a 0.00 cumulative delta voltage, while the other cells have tiny voalues. Isn't a weak cell usually a large CDV? Guessing this is a brief snap shot and the software hasn't had time to collect enough data to properly calculate those values.

Edit: the display really should indicate the data collection period somewhere...

 

even a new oem is temporary, as is life

 

The IR value of 19 is default whenever 12v is lost and restored. It updates eventually, but the screenshot is likely to have been done shortly after a 12v cycle.

 

Aren't we a 211 volt-based system?

 

I can not give you a SOC for a 207.2v battery, but it will be very low. It would be good to charge the complete battery to the 220v range.

 

No, we are a 201.7 V (nominal) voltage system. We aim for 210 V as a minimum to equate to 40% SoC.

It is below the 40% SoC minimum. You need to charge it to be above 210 V and 220 V to 222 V would be desirable.

This assumes you've replaced the 2.3 V module with a different one that matches the capacity and resting voltage of the other 27 remaining modules.

 

201 No I don't think that's right I'm not here to argue about that we're a 211 volt base system when you talk to hybrid people about the Prius in the year that we're talking about in this thread generally it's a 211 base system DC volts I charged with the Venice hybrid charger at 300 volts DC at 2.4 amps. Point blank That's it generally when I look at a lot of these batteries out in the field on cars that won't start and won't run and people have all these stories I put the fluky test meter on the thing it'd be showing 220 219 230

 

I think you might be able to get it to go to neutral and park I'll have to go out and try it later today I can't remember but I think so but what's the point oh so you can roll the car in the driveway yeah I think that's a that's a go I think you're p.lock mechanism is 12 volt

 

I usually make sure I take the hybrid battery parked in a straight ahead position somewhere where I'm not going to need to move the car certainly not in the shop space but in the shop space I have wheel jacks that can go under each wheel and I can spend the car 360 and push it around at will almost with one finger out in the grass I don't have that luxury but the car is not going to need to go anywhere until the battery is ready so there's always that but I do believe the pee lock and all that is 12 volt all the wiring and sensors that it used to determine that your locked out and all that are all part of the 12 volt system of course that's all kept charged up and what not by the HV battery and inverter but that's for another discussion

 

Yes the parking lot mechanism is 12 volt that has the sense a bunch of other sensors to get you out of park lock and then to drive already and vice versa so that's all 12 volt If it doesn't have orange wires going to it It works off the 12 volt

 

Yes, it is right but you can think what you like, I don't care. Each module has a nominal voltage of 7.2 V times 28 modules equals 201.6 V.

Yet you are, but no matter, my interest is for people who come along later to have the correct information.

 

You look around in places and you'll see that I'm pretty sure we're a 211 volt base system maybe the Prius c or something is the 201 or the original Prius or something