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2012 Prius V: SOC Dropping Intermittently And Instantly And Throwing P0A80 Code

Discussion in 'Prius v Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by FlyboyTR, Aug 1, 2024 at 9:10 PM.

  1. FlyboyTR

    FlyboyTR Member

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    2012 Prius v, 209k miles

    Last year I replaced two hybrid battery blocks that failed. Two months ago I replaced two more hybrid battery blocks that went bad. I also replaced the voltage sensing harness and primary ground cable because of corrosion. Things have been working well and suddenly, 1,500 miles later, this has started.

    Yesterday, cranked up and turned on Dr. Prius. SOC was 58%. I pulled out of the driveway and suddenly the dash lights lit up and my SOC dropped to 27%. It was showing an active P0A80 code. I cleared the code and things started working. About 30 minutes later, it did the same thing.

    Today while driving we stopped for about 20 minutes. Dr Prius was showing the SOC at 70%. As I pulled out, the dash lit up and my SOC dropped to 27%. I cleared the code and things started charging. This time the Delta SOC (red) started increasing as we were driving. You can see where I cleared it.

    Later I hooked up my Techstream. All block voltages were fine. SOC was 56%. Suddenly, it threw another P0A80 code and my SOC dropped to 26%. Block battery voltages dropped down into the 15 volt range, but there were no significant differences between the voltages.

    I am at a complete loss as to what to check next. We're leaving in 6 weeks for a 6,000 mile trip...and I can't leave home like this! Video link attached.

    Any input or suggestions would be appreciated.

    Thanks!

     
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  2. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Active Member

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    Look at the freeze frame for the P0A80 trouble code. The freeze frame is created when the P0A80 is triggered. Look at the voltages of the 14 battery blocks.
     
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  3. FlyboyTR

    FlyboyTR Member

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    Brian,
    Thanks. I will hook techstream back up and try to find that data. I have never looked at/for freeze frame data before...hopefully I can find it! I'll update afterwards. Thanks again!
     
  4. FlyboyTR

    FlyboyTR Member

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    OK, I pulled the freeze frame data related to the P0A80 Code. At this point I am counting on the great minds here to analyze this...because I don't have a clue! :) I did note that all the block voltages looked OK (to me). Thanks!
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Active Member

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    The freeze-frame is for a pending P0A80 code. It is not current/active, so I am assuming that the warning lights are off on your dash.

    The freeze frame data for the battery blocks only shows a 0.12 volt difference between the battery blocks. IMO, that is pretty low to trigger the trouble code.

    You said that you recently replaced the voltage sensing wire harness. Did you use a new or used harness? Was there corrosion on the old wire harness orange connector that connected to the battery ECU?

    The thing that sticks out to me is that SOC jumping around and the Delta SOC of the battery blocks is high (>0%). A healthy battery pack has a Delta SOC of 0%.

    Two things to check:
    1. Is there corrosion on the orange connector on the battery ECU. If there is corrosion or you previously cleaned the corrosion off of the pins, then I would replace the battery ECU with a used one.
    2. Check to make sure that all the nuts on the bus bars are tight and the nuts on the large relays are tight.

    I think that a grid charger to do a top voltage balance of the complete battery pack would help to reduce the Delta SOC.
     
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  6. FlyboyTR

    FlyboyTR Member

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    Yes, I had cleared the last P0A80 code because we were driving and power to the wheels was very low. When I did the sensing wire replacement I did use a used harness that was corrosion free. I also had to replace the sensor module (below is a link to that post with pictures. It was so bad the board in the module was corroded. I have also rebuilt the primary hybrid ground cable that runs from pack 1 and plugs into "something" at the end of the batteries (next to the sensor module). At this point, I would like to replace that cable as well. I am certain all the battery nuts are tight as I had went over them twice.

    We live on the Gulf Coast, on the water, so humidity and high temps are the norm. Last year I was checking the spare tire (just an air pressure check) and found about 6" of nasty water around the tire. Everything down there was wet...and I guess that moisture would have also got into the battery. Could be why I've had such a corrosion problem. I did find the source of the leak so we are now remaining dry.

    The ground cable (since I don't have things opened up yet); does it plug into the battery ECU? I will start searching for a ground cable and ECU.

    Please know how much I appreciate your help.

    Link to my previous post:
    P0AFC... Terrible Wire and Voltage Module Corrosion | PriusChat
     
  7. FlyboyTR

    FlyboyTR Member

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  8. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    In that listing, the seller is selling both the battery junction block (with the relays on it), and the battery smart unit or "voltage sensor" (the metal box glommed on the side).

    The battery smart unit in gen 3 is what replaced the battery ECU that gen 1 and 2 had.

    It's not its own, separately-addressable ECU anymore, now more like a remote sensor annex of the power management control ECU under the dash. All the things it measures show up there. Other than that difference in the setup, it serves the same purpose as the former battery ECU.
     
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  9. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Active Member

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    I made some mistakes in my post #5. A Gen 2 Prius has a battery ECU, and a Gen 3 does not. A Gen 3 Prius has a battery smart unit, or it can be called a battery pack sensor module. So, every time I used battery ECU in post #5, it was not correct.

    Thanks for the link to your previous thread.

    So, you already replaced the sensor module, which is want I was thinking needed to be replaced in my previous post. So that is good. Like you already said, you should probably replace the main negative cable that connects between battery module #1 and the junction block.

    I am assuming that you did not use a grid charger to balance the complete pack the last time you replaced some modules. Doing that will help to reduce the Delta SOC and your battery pack will function better. But first, replace the negative cable.

    Edit: ChapmanF posted (4 minutes) before I could finish my correction. Thank you.
     
    #9 Brian1954, Aug 2, 2024 at 8:45 PM
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2024 at 8:58 PM
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  10. FlyboyTR

    FlyboyTR Member

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    ChapmanF,
    Thanks for joining in! I am keeping my laptop in the car so that if the event happens again, I can capture that freeze frame data (before clearing the code).

    Is the module you are referring to the one I linked to below? Thanks!

    Travis

    2010-2015 TOYOTA PRIUS POWER MANAGEMENT CONTROL ECU MODULE 89681-47250 OEM | eBay
     
  11. FlyboyTR

    FlyboyTR Member

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    Thanks for the update and corrections...appreciated! Yes, sensor module was replaced (I'm glad the link to my previous thread proved beneficial). I do not own or have access to a grid charger for balancing the pack.

    Is it possible the cable corrosion could have made its way from the battery ground cable into the contactors/relays? It seems I remember reading in the past about those sticking/failing?

    I hate the thought of just throwing parts at a problem...but at the same time I realize there are many things that could have triggered these events. Outside of something else (which it could be...), is this my list of potential part failures:

    Ground/negative cable (from battery to contactor/relay),

    Contactor/Relays assembly:
    10-15 Toyota Prius Gen 3 Hybrid Battery Fuse Relay Box Module G92Z1-47020 | eBay

    Power Management ECU (under the dash):
    2010-2015 TOYOTA PRIUS POWER MANAGEMENT CONTROL ECU MODULE 89681-47250 OEM | eBay

    Over this weekend we will be driving the Prius quite a bit. I will be watching it closely and will report back here if there is another event. We're scheduled to depart in six weeks for our fall trip to Montana...so my time is getting short. I certainly don't have a problem pulling the battery and rechecking everything as well as buying any needed or suspect parts.

    Brian & Chapman... again, please know how much I appreciate your knowledge, input and guidance! Thanks!

    Travis
     
    #11 FlyboyTR, Aug 3, 2024 at 9:27 AM
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2024 at 9:37 AM
  12. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    In general, when you look up a trouble code in the repair manual, you find:

    • a first page, which includes some information in boxes:
      • a "DTC Detection Condition" box, which explains exactly what the ECU must have seen to set the code
      • a "Trouble Area" box, which is just a bulleted list of everything (that the engineers could think of that day) that could potentially ever be involved in creating the detection condition
    • more pages, which give confirmation and troubleshooting steps for narrowing down what's really creating the detected conditions in this case.

    I have seen people just kind of take the bulleted list of potentially-ever-involved trouble areas and run with it like a list of parts to try changing to solve the problem, but I don't recommend that approach. It's the troubleshooting steps that come on the following pages that are likely to lead you to the actual source of the issue so you can just deal with that.
     
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  13. FlyboyTR

    FlyboyTR Member

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    @ChapmanF, @Brian1954 ,
    I do not have a repair manual...but I will look for one to see the troubleshooting steps.

    Well...It through another P0A80 code today. It was sitting idle (in ready-mode) for about 10 minutes. When we got back in the car dash lights were lit up. Kathy quickly pulled out the laptop and we hooked it up. I pulled the freeze frame data, attached, and took a look at it before saving the file and clearing the code for our drive back home.

    I did note there was a huge difference between the #2 block voltage and everything else; about 1.5 volts less than everything else. I would think that would be enough to trigger the code. What do y'all think?

    Travis
     

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  14. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Active Member

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    Agreed, one of the two modules in block #2 has a bad cell.

    With the number of miles that you have on your Prius and you have already replaced some modules on two separate occasions, I would buy a new OEM HV battery. Then you do not need to worry about the battery for 10+ years.