I can't get my car to run. Please help!

What kind of code reader are you using? Are you sure your code reader has a code library for hybrid vehicles? Some of these codes don't make sense?

 

Yeah you need to check your code reader and make sure that it's up to snuff and yes you need 12 volts really I mean some components will work down to 9 volts but which ones and all that who knows at least I don't.

 

When my throttle body did go bad in either Gen 2 or 3 I didn't have all these codes

 

That app has most of the codes, but not all of them... May try: "Car Scanner (ELM)" app to see if there's anything else and then we can work on the codes you do have some more.

 

Yeah... Same with me...

 

If the car is on ready then the DC to DC converter is putting out output to the 12 volt to keep it charged but if you break the ground connection I would think that might mess up the 12 volt charging that should be going on but I'm not sure it wouldn't necessarily turn the whole car off but yeah maybe so I'll have to go out and try it if you break the 12 volt ground then pretty much everything that's 12 volt in the car should go off which is pretty much everything except orange cable things. Which there are not that many so you must not have broken the ground good enough or something

 

The 12v is designed to power up all the systems and once the high voltage battery is on the 12v does nothing but sit there and get a near 14 volt trickle charge.

I'm thinking you need to replace or fully charge the 12v battery because a weak 12v creates all kinds of malfunctions when it tries to power up all the car's systems with lower than the needed voltage.

Also you haven't explained what the car's symptoms are beyond the error codes. Does the car shift into neutral at least? Does the car go into ready mode? Do you have specific warning lights? Or is the dash blank? We need all these details to tell you what to focus on next!

And lastly, if none of the above works, I think something is wrong with whatever you mean by "got the hybrid battery done." Please clarify and maybe double check the 100+ connections that all have to be done right for it to truly be "done."

 

That's just the hybrid battery spinning the engine and the engine not starting... If you try too many times you'll need to charge up your battery pack via a grid charger or via charging each individual module to try again.

Was the engine working before you did what you describe to make the hybrid battery "done?" And why won't you describe the details of the work you did on the hybrid battery?

 

Based on your description, I think the codes you are seeing are history or permanent codes and not active codes. Download the Car Scanner ELM app as suggested in post #6.

Fresh gas in the tank would be a big help.

 

I dun᠎no, they make sense ok to me. You can find more about them all in this post. (That post, and the drawing below, are about the gen 3 Prius, but the main details are the same for gen 2.)

The throttle position sensor is in fact two redundant sensors, producing two voltages, VTA1 and VTA2. Both voltages increase with increasing throttle opening, but by design they are not identical (therefore, if they were ever somehow shorted together, the ECM would know something wasn't right). You can see there is both a 1.11 V constant offset and that also VTA2 has a steeper slope.



In gen 2 the sensing is done with two potentiometers instead of magnets and Hall sensors, but the sensor outputs keep the same relationship, with the offset and the different slopes.

So the ECM can sanity-check the throttle sensor in various ways. It can give you a code that's just about VTA1 or VTA2 if one of those is clearly out of range (reading zero, say). Or, if neither one is clearly out of range, but the relationship between them is not the right VTA2 = (VTA1 + 1.11) ÷ 0.8, you can get a code about miscorrelation between the two.

In any of those cases, the ECM does not trust the throttle position sensor, so it's going to be very balky about using the engine or driving.

It is possible to have intermittent faults, so that sometimes both readings might look ok to you. If you have a scan tool that can retrieve freeze frames, you should be able to see the Throttle Position #1 and #2 voltages saved at the times the codes were set—as well as other things, like the engine load and target throttle position at the time—which could all help you spot which value looks out of kilter and get you thinking why.

Edit: VTA2 = (VTA1 + 1.11) ÷ 0.8 isn't the exact relationship across the whole range, as you can see VTA2 hits its maximum voltage a bit earlier than VTA1 does, and bends over flat after that.

 

No, history and permanent codes will NOT clear during a disconnection of the 12v battery or clearing with a scan tool. You need an app that shows the status of the codes (active, pending, history ) that you have. I know that the Car Scanner ELM app does show the code status. The app is free, so try it and see what you got.

Edit: All 4 of the codes you listed are retained in memory until the problem is fixed and the car confirms that indeed it is fixed. So I think all 4 of the codes are history codes and you do not need to be concerned with them.

I believe that you have other active codes that the Dr. Prius app is not reading. The Car Scanner ELM app is a more capable scan tool for reading DTCs.

 

I've found that to be true with Gen3 Prius (2010-2015) but I've never had that problem with Gen2 Prius (2004-2009). I suspect Gen2 Prius doesn't have the (active, pending, history) feature. It just has codes that clear when you disconnect the 12volt for a few minutes until the car finds the same codes again.

 

Gen 2 does have history codes but I don't recollect seeing permanent codes, although it does have groups of codes that are not cleared by disconnecting the 12 V supply. These codes can only be cleared by a code reader.

 

On the AP200 I do believe it tells me above codes the history like permanent and what have you I'm almost positive but I will look again over the next couple of days I've got some work to do with it I know TIS software does let's Toyotas stuff in some of the bigger a u t e l scanners do it and I do believe I saw on the AP200 a permanent code in my generation 3 for the bad battery which the battery has been replaced and it works wonderfully We haven't done the driving that needs to be done to rid the car of the code we've tried to but oh well changing the battery with a brand new one doesn't make the code any different or go away we've tried it.

 

Only had time to glance through the thread, but things that jump out:

1. Charge the 12v battery or replace it. 11.4 volts no load (depending on how and where measured) isn't doing you any favors and may be causing you to chase your tail.
2. The HV battery sat for a year, then you replaced one bad module, then you charged all modules at 2 amps for 20 minutes. That's equivalent to giving a shot glass of water to a man dying from dehydration. That added less than 10% to the SOC on a good day. You're going to need to give the man the bottle, not a shot glass.