C1365 - 215 50 miles after replacing brake actuator (used)

First office the actuators busted or like what you're talking it'll be constantly running trying to pump up that black can on it called the accumulator. So what you want to do now is see if you can get somebody's AP200 or TIS Toyota software and bleed the brakes usually what will happen if you bleed manually like your guy did he can check the rears check the fronts with nothing turned on and see what you have back there You should have no air at any of the wheels but inside the actuator where you can't see or whatever there is some air but usually when you start the car and play with the brakes a little bit that air gets pushed out right back up into the reservoir No place for it to go I mean there's no out one of the wheels if it's open but that's not the case here. So all my cars usually that's just immediately straightens itself out with a couple of break pedal pushes You on the other hand have all this beeping going on which is indicating there's an accumulator pressure problem which could be caused by some air in the system but generally I would like to think that errors kind of gone with one or two pushes like what happens in my car's generally but I have had a bad actuator straight out of the junkyard and drove around with it bad for almost a year because I was just lazy. So I know generally what the cars will do with a crappy break actuator assembly but I guess everyone could be different don't know. But you could try when you got your beeping going on again did you look at the level in your reservoir had it gone down like replace some air with fluid that's what happens if it pushes out into the reservoir like it's supposed to fluid's going to take its place as the air goes out because fluids coming in from the feed to the actuator constantly from a big rubber hose. So I was just wondering if you noticed that or not If not you're probably changing the actuator again and if you ever do have to fix your CM monitor display which is you're messing with the negative terminal now finding out that it's bad when you have that in your hand pull the speaker off the back of it and your car will be pretty much silent for life you'll have all the trouble lights just not all the trouble beeps even for the seat belts It's a wonderful thing I have just done in my '07 JBL pretty much loaded car and it's a nice addition.

 

I read that freezeframe data as the brake actuator has failed internally. All the pressure sensors work the same way. The ecu supplies 5V power (2 circuits) and sensor ground (1 circuit) to the actuator (and all the pressure sensors inside it).

Each sensor will output a signal based on the pressure it sees. Low pressure is under 1V, and voltage increases as pressure goes up.

The 2 master cylinder sensors read normally, while the accumulator and all 4 wheel pressure sensors are way over 4V. A problem with one of the 5V circuits would result in low voltages (not high). And a fault with the sensor ground would cause ALL sensors to read high.

So there's a problem (with a ground) that affects only some of the pressure sensors. That's gotta be inside the actuator.

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