Third day with new car, dead 12V battery, second day in a row :(

I will predict that now the door latch thing has been cured, and the '24 PP XSE fleet is being moved from dealership/port to new buyers, after sitting for months waiting for the resolution of the safety issues, there will be more new owners suffering the weak 12v battery problems. Just my best guess.

 

Well, it is a Toyota battery… Here is the pic.

 

What's that little red wire, add-on to the battery? Is it fused, what's the current draw and is it constant?

 

Is everything still in one piece? I don't see the red cap and battery sensor, and there is an empty cylindrical wire protector. It almost looks like the whole thing was butchered.

That seems to be a Canadian battery. In the US, they have Toyota TrueStart and Toyota True-2.

 

No. There isn't a TSB about bad batteries.

There are TSBs about maintaining batteries when cars are sitting on the lot. There are TSBs about prepping cars for delivery to customers and that the batteries should be tested to make sure they're charged. And there's a TSB on the 2023 and early 2024 Primes about a software update to make sure the car can go into and stay in sleep mode when the charging cable is connected. But there's no TSB about bad batteries.

 

Incidentally, the almost-four-year-old OEM GS Yuasa in the Turquoise Jewel didn't take a 32-day idle well this summer. Everything had gone completely dark, and I had to use the mechanical key to get in. It measured about 1.7 V (or, perhaps, it was 1.4 V). I got a jump start from a AAA van, and it fired up OK. I haven't replaced it yet, but it doesn't seem to charge above about 12.1 V anymore; so, it seems to have lost about 50% capacity. 100% SOC would be about 12.64 V open-circuit, rested. I am planning to get a Walmart EverStart Maxx BCI 140R soon.

 

I just got back home after being away for a week to a dead 12 volt. Cable wasn't plugged in, nothing this a defective car errr

 

That is the electronic rust protection module from Toyota. Always been skeptical about that stuff, but he gave me a good price and it comes with a 10-year rust warranty, so I figured why not.


It’s a Toyota accessory from a dealer, so not some random 3rd party they can blame.

 

Yes, I am in Canada and it is Canadian. (Note the yellow paint in the background… sorry )


I will need to look again later, I think one of the battery covers was off because of the electronic rust protection module they gave me, so it doesn’t fit with it, but the whole thing is under the plastic cover anyway.

 

This my electric corrosion module from dealer
Plugged into factory harness
I was going to unplug it (do believe in it and have seen many cars with modules on and corroded bad)
But I will leave it there
Car has been Corrosion Free rustproofed recently

 

I saw the vw id4 uses the same battery. Checked online at dealers and I am seeing $72. If that’s a Varta battery it would be a deal and a half. I hesitate to tell this because now the internet will buy them all out.
Since no one really seems to be able to explain how the dc to dc charges the battery on and off and keeps the car on, I’ll figure it out. I think Weber showed something at the positive post. The battery isn’t just hooked to + like a regular old car. There is a junction block, then a wire or band goes to the positive separately.

 

$72 for a BCI 140R/DIN H4/EN LN1 battery?? I have to see it to believe it.

A quick Google search says that VW ID4 uses an LFP 12-V battery, not a lead–acid 12-V battery.

 

Annoying when people doubt what one says. Look up 2021 vw id4 on oreilly or other for a battery if you don’t believe. Or look up before.
The Bolt uses it too, and others, very common battery.
Unfortunately my cart which I had emailed to me now says no longer available. It may still be in person at a vw or audi dealer. But at what price. Part is 000915105DC

 

LOL If you get annoyed when people express doubt about your posts, you should not be posting, period.

Typical BCI 140R battery is selling for $150–200. You are saying that the VW dealers are selling them for $72. That's almost ⅓ of the current market price. If something is too good to be true, it is usually too good to be true. Let us know if you find a $72 BCI 140R battery. I will soon get mine from Walmart for about $160.

 

This is why sometimes it is best just to not try to help people find a good deal. Waste of time.

 

As I said, I would be interested if you found a BCI 140R/DIN H4/EN LN1 enhanced flooded-cell battery (EFB) for $72 and perhaps get one myself.

No EN LN1 EFB is sold in the US, let alone for $72, as far as I know. That is because they are start–stop batteries, and EN LN1 is a little too small for a start–stop car. They are sold in Europe, but that is EFB country, as most batteries there are EFB now. If you think you can get one from a Volkswagen dealer for cheap, let us know, as I said.

An EFB can arguably last longer than an AGM battery in certain conditions. However, I doubt that would be the case in a Prius.

I am now inclined to get an ACDelco LN1 AGM battery from RockAuto. It is probably made by Clarion in South Korea, which also makes Varta; so, it should be of top quality if that is the case, and I get to experiment with an AGM battery in a Gen 4/Gen 5 Prius.

Walmart EverStart Maxx 140R is made in South Korea; so, it is made either by Clarion or by Hankook–AtlasBX. However, it is a flooded-cell battery, and it is very unlikely to be an EFB (enhanced flooded-cell battery).

The OEM GS Yuasa EN LN1 is a standard flooded-cell battery (not an EFB or AGM battery).

AGM batteries have a voltage that is 0.25-V-higher than flooded-cell batteries, and I hope it won't cause any problem with the Gen 4/Gen 5 battery sensor and charging system. Perhaps it is possible that it automatically senses and adjusts for an AGM battery.

 

Well that's going to cause a small current draw. Hopefully it's fused properly, so if it malfunctions - it doesn't become a large current draw, taking out your battery. No big deal if the car is a daily driver, but if it's only a weekly, short haul, or monthly driver - the battery may be drawn down prematurely.

Just my 2 cents...

 

As I said before it’s on the interchange lists, same battery used on many cars. The id4 example is under the hood. You know how to search why not search replacing id4 battery? I don’t know why you can’t agree on anything when the facts are there, and you have preformed opinions, but you just can’t it becomes a ten page argument. I know you can read the interchange lists and go to vw or audi websites. I know the g4 battery is flooded cell, no need to explain things over and over that people know.

 

I am not the one who has been arguing. And I have no idea what you are complaining about at this point. No one tried to teach you that Gen 4 used a flooded-cell battery.

Volkswagen ID4 lists more than ten different batteries. Most of them show as discontinued, unavailable, or superseded. Some of them are EFB, some of them are standard. I don't know where to get the correct part numbers. The prices are all over the place.

I asked you to provide a link. You haven't. One part number you provided seems to be discontinued.

You threw a stone in a well and you didn't follow up. Let's see what this battery you are talking about is. We haven't.

And @Trollbait, you like posts not even without reading the threads as usual. Why not bring something useful to the discussion instead?

So, what is this battery? Let's see it.

 

Oh, I've been reading.
Battery 000-915-089-C | OEM Parts Online
VW battery for the ID 4 and others. Part number @Mr.Vanvandenburg gave.
$91.42 at that site. $72 would have been 1/2 off, so not that unlikely.