Pest chewed through wires, need to identify part/wires needed

I don't see any sign that anything bad happened to the circuit-breaker sensor itself, only to the two wires connecting to it.

If you're just going to use splicing materials you already have on hand to repair those wires, there may be no need to look up any parts.

You could buy Toyota's repair terminals for the yellow connector, and if you wanted to do that, you could find the part numbers in the online wiring diagram, as this post describes.

But I don't see any advantage to doing that here. The repair terminals come with short lengths of wire attached, which you still have to splice to your original wires; the usual lengths would put the splices just about where you could just splice what you've got already. I don't see any sign of damage nearer to the terminals or connector.

 

It looks like that piece of wire loom was also chewed at its base. If the wire visible there is actually damaged (hard to tell from the picture) the OP may need to unwrap the wire harness a little below that point to get an inch or so of clean wire to splice to. There is plenty of clean wire on the plug side already. A new piece of wire loom might also be a good idea, that one has seen better days.

 

Get one from a junkyard.

Or did you mean the cable to the hatch broke? That is much more common than the latch itself breaking. The part number for that cable is 53630-47030, MSRP is $55 but one local Toyota dealer is selling the OEM part for $41.

Hood Lock Control Cable Assembly #53630-47030 | Autoparts.toyota.com

The Dorman one is $24 at RockAuto. Given the abysmal quality of most things Dorman and the high PITA factor of a stuck hood, I would spend the extra $17 for the real deal.

 

The toyota part number is on the sticker on top of the cube. It's a safety relay that kills the main relays in the HV battery if the air bags deploy.

 

I think it's an inertial sensor in its own right, independent of the airbag system. It will make the battery relays drop out if it detects the g force of a collision ... which ought to usually coincide with when the airbags deploy, but those have their own controller and sensors.

 

Description of the test here.

https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8CPDF%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21bpm/3137348.pdf

 

Yeah just get wire of the same gauge, splice it in. My lawn mower extension cord comes to mind...

 

That cord has at least 3 splices in it. Is that black stuff electrical tape? OSHA would not be pleased:

I admit to having temporarily repaired extension cords using self fusing silicone tape on the outside, but those cords were replaced soon after, and no part of them was ever inside a structure during use.

Not that OSHA has any say in Canada.

I have never seen an "approved splice kit", but suspect that it would cost more than a replacement cord in most cases.

 

interesting; thanks for the tip.

 

Those are nice little wooden ramps behind the extension cords. I think I will make some. Maybe with one more 2x4 for a little more width. How long are the sloped parts?

To get enough lift on the Prius that the floor jack would work on the front lift point it was being driven up on scrap 2x10s. Unfortunately last time they were employed one of them split. Yes, right down a grain line, as one would expect. Luckily it split with the wheel already up on it, which held it together mostly, so the split only opened up about a 1/4".

 

Thanks for the diagram.

Why the asymmetry on the end slopes?
Are the 2x4's glued together, or just clamped by the threaded rods/washers/nuts?

 

No asymmetry: right end dimension for threaded rod, and left for slope commence. Note CL sym notation.

No glue, just bolts.

 

Ah, I see it now. Thanks.