2005 Prius Won't Go Into Programming Mode

Did your old fob have sks functions? Everything works on it?

The programming mode duplicates a fully functional key. If your old fob has all functions working properly, then it shouldn't have programming issues

 

If the car will not start in the slot, it's not an original key.

You can still program a new key to match your old one, just don't do the step in programming the slot function.

You actually have the more desirable working function. Slot is useless

 

I've programmed many before but can't remember duplicating one that didn't work in the slot. So I don't know if what you're experiencing is normal.

I guess to do it right, you would need to reseed the car and program both fobs again

 

Reseed the car and start over fresh to program both keys.

 

Techstream can get you started but you will have to pay someone like me, or another service for the code. (usually $25 or more).

 

I realize this forum is a few months old, but I am having a similar problem as the original poster in that I can not get my vehicle into program mode to program a key fob.

I am the original owner of a 2005 Prius (with SKS) and have (had) both original key fobs (silver logo). Both key fobs were very worn but otherwise worked (SKS and slot) though one of them occasionally acted flaky on the SKS side.

So I purchased 2 new key fob cases (no electronics in them) and one new, unprogrammed key fob with electronics.

On the first night (two nights before trash day, trash day figuring prominently in my story), I sat down and swapped the electronics board from each of the original cases to my new blank cases. And by electronics I mean just the board, not the extra black trapezoidal shaped block that apparently makes the vehicle slot work.

After confirming both key fobs could lock and unlock the car as well as start the car with the fob in my pocket (one of them a little flakily), I threw out both original cases, both of which took a beating when I opened them.

On the second night (trash night), I took the best working key fob (original electronics but in a new case), the unprogrammed Toyota key fob, and my chicken dance instruction sheet out to the car to program the Toyota key fob.

After attempting to program the new key fob a couple of times, that is when I discovered the "working key fob" wouldn't start the car when plugged into the slot (started just fine with it in my pocket, much like the original poster).

Realizing I missed something, I went out to the trash can and rescued the trash bag that I thought contained the original cases - turns out I was half right - it contained just one of the original cases (apparently I threw the cases out into two different bags). I was unable to find the second original case - its now in a landfill somewhere.

So I now have a very rough looking original case with the black trapezoidal block and two electronics boards. If I put either electronics board into the original case, the car will start with the fob plugged into the slot and via SKS (ie, just in my pocket).

But when I try to program the new blank fob (doors closed and unlocked, original fob insert/remove 4 times then insert, driver door open/close 6 times, then remove the original fob, the key light never comes on solid. It just continues to flash.

Can anyone offer me a suggestion? I realize the SKS operability is more desireable than plugging it into the slot, but being able to plug the fob into the slot if the fob battery is dead is an option I'd like to keep.

 

I am presuming the "base" key fob you are using contains the black trapezoidal block and the original two electronics boards and it is able to start the car with the fob in the slot?

It should not matter whether they are in the old or new case. As long as the complete package is in whichever case you are using.

If that is the case here, then I can only suggest it is the timing of the steps where you are taking too long at some steps.

 

Yeah, I can start the vehicle with the original fob inserted into the slot.

Im not sure how I could do the steps any faster. Its probably not more than 15 seconds from the first fob insert to its removal after opening and closing the door 6 times. Maybe I'm not taking long enough.

 

Yes, it could be that too. My impression from reading people's success stories was they did the steps not so deliberately, and then they got it to work, so that's why I went that way.

Give it a go.

 

That was it. I was going too fast. I now have two fully functioning SKS/Slot fobs plus an extra that does SKS only.

Thanks for being a sounding board.

 

Thank you for taking the time to report back with your solution.
Too often people ask for advice... we give it... and then they are never heard from again!

 

Glad it worked out for you. Timing is important in life.

I used to have all sorts of problems swiping credit cards at the gas pump because the reader would have a note "remove quickly". I would get read errors and then try even faster. I now have learned to swipe slowly and it works every time

 

I had problems getting my 2006 Prius into programming mode - Eventually I got it to work. This are the variables I changed from the instructions:

I toggled the key button on and off under the steering wheel to exercise it.
I did not touch the door lock mechanism to check that the doors were unlocked after I got in the car to start the process.
1. I unlocked all the doors
2. I opened and shut the door.
3. I put the old fob in 5 times and left it after the left the fifth insert
4. I opened the door and shut it 6 times and the red light finally stayed on
5. I quickly followed the rest of the instructions.
6. I spent a bout an hour and a half getting this to work.

Best of luck to everyone.

 

My 2007 prius is doing the exact same thing yours is. Trying to program a spare remote, does not go into programming mode. The existing remove has full SKS function but like yours, the car will not start up with the fob in the slot!
Did you every figure out how to fix this? Thanks!

 

If it works in keyless SKS, why do you need the car slot? If the car fob case has been replaced, you may not have transferred the transponder chip to the new case. So that could be a reason the slot will not work. But since SKS works, there is no reason you need the slot (unless your battery dies)

 

To test your keyfob is missing the transponder chip place the keyfob into the dash. The immobilizer light on the dash should go out and stay out, and stays out. If the immobilizer light continues to blink the transponder chip is missing or not programmed to the vehicle. Open the keyfob in the nose of keyfob you should find the transponder chip pressed into the inside of the keyfob case. It will be black rectangle shape with one side partly beveled.
To fix this problem you will need to do the following get a new keyfob, or get just the transponder chip. You can order one on line and install it in the keyfob your self. Next you could reseed the car using Toyota tech tool plus the special code. Or contact a locksmith that has the Autel KM100. The KM100 can also be used to verify the transponder chip is present in the keyfob. Some key programming tools can simulate a key transponder chip. It pulls information from the immobilizer. This information is sent to Autel, they do the calculation to run the key simulator. This is then downloaded to the KM100. The locksmith will use this to gain access to vehicles immobilizer. The locksmith will now be able to program the key to the vehicle.
For any vehicle never have only one working key.