Auto-folding mirrors and turn indicators part numbers

I don't know what color your car is, but I really like my choice to have the mirror caps painted to match the body(red). Really easy to do when you've got a second set of caps because of the conversion. Only thing I'd do differently would've been to PPF them as soon as the paint finished curing.

 

All mirror caps are black and identical. I've got my black originals in storage, and my second set were painted and are currently installed. They're already stained with bug guts and scratches, which is why I plan to have my original set painted and PPFed a few years from now and swap them again. Sadly, the caps from the Crown have different insides(inc. attachment points) even though the outsides are identical. Some of the Crown and Prius colors overlap(inc. red), so it would've been so nice to just stick on Crown caps and not worry about painting(cheaper, too). Alas.

If you're putting RHD mirror assemblies on a LHD car, you'll need to swap the mirror bases from your original mirrors or the installed mirrors won't line up properly for a LH driving position. If your mirrors came off a LHD car, you don't need to do anything. If you have to do it, it's an easy swap. Just try to be careful of the tabs if you have to remove the plastic trim covers. And also have some super glue nearby if(when) you're not careful enough.

 

It's not that bad. You need to pop off the plastic cover on the bottom of the arm. That will expose the metal inner portion that connects it to the mirror body by 3 screws. Just do that to both your existing mirror and the new mirror and graft the new mirror body to the existing mirror arm.

The hardest part is getting the plastic cover off without breaking any tabs off. The good news is you can practice by starting with the donor mirror. You're not going to reusing that part.

SM-S901U ?

 

Oh yeah, that one is a real b!tch to depin. I ended up going to a dealership to ask a tech how to do it. You'll need to modify one of your depinning tools to create a sort of hump. You use one hand to hold the wire and push the connector to create a little space. Then you need to get your tool under the metal locking tab to lift it up, then pull the housing forward. I don't know how many dozens of tries it took me.

Here's a bad drawing I made for someone on the Rav4 board:

 

It's the section opposite the place where you press to unplug the connector, if that makes sense. You come in from the front of the plug.

In my drawing, the part labeled housing is gray plastic, and the part labeled terminal is the gold plated metal square in the middle. The wire would be going out to the left. If you post a picture, I can annotate it with some marks showing where to insert the tool.

As for the tool, it's just that little lip that's the problem. You need that little bend in the tool to get in underneath the locking tab. None of the tools I had had quite the correct combination of angles to get in there. So a little work with a needle nose pliers got the job done.

 

You've got the right idea. The red line is where the tool goes in. You'll angle it downward to get under the tab.

 

I got the pinout from the European Toyota tech website, but I don't think I saved an image of the file(or at least I can't find one). But I did type it all out in a text file because my brain liked that way. If this doesn't make sense, let me know and I'll try to find something better.

Code:

Door Side Old
1 MH  Lt Blue  |  7  +    White
2 M+  Black    |  8  BSL+ Pink
3 MV  Red      |  9  E    W/B
4 GTL White    |  10 BTL  Red
5 GND Green    |  11 +B   Black
6

Door Side New
1 MV   Red     |  9  MH   Lt Blue
2              |  10 M+   Black
3 MR   Violet  |  11 MF   Green
4 +B   Black   |  12 GND  Green
5              |  13
6 BTL  Red     |  14 GTL  White
7 +    White   |  15 E    W/B
8 BSL+ Pink    |  16 B    Black

Mirror Side New
1 MV   Purple  |  9  MH   Brown
2              |  10 M+   Red
3 MR   Lt Blue |  11 MF   Lt Green
4 +B   Yellow  |  12 GND  Green/Yellow
5              |  13
6 BTL  Green   |  14 GTL  Blue
7 +    B/G     |  15 E    W/B
8 BSL+ B/R     |  16 B    Pink

I'm not 100% certain what the B/G or B/R stand for anymore. Normally a slash there meant a striped wire, but that doesn't make sense. It might have meant blue on one side of the car and green or red on the other. You might need to look through your wires and see what makes sense. BSL and BSL+ should go to the blindspot warning light in the mirror, and + is the power for the mirror heater.


Acronym code:

E - shared ground
B - turn signal
MV, MH, M+ - remote mirror control (vertical, horizontal, power)
MF - power mirror fold forward
MR - power mirror fold reverse
BSL, BSL+ - blindspot warning light
+ - power for mirror heater
GTL, BTL, +B, GND - IR light for 360 camera system

 

When I say pull the dash(or pull the dash pad), I mean removing the top section of the dash. To do the job completely "right", I think it's unavoidable. By "right", I mean wiring the new parts exactly like the wiring diagram indicates.

I think it might be possible to make everything work by only removing the lower dash trim panels, using direct wire runs instead of the junction connectors, and routing the wires for the passenger side under the dash instead of over. But I didn't do it that way, so I can't be certain. Not pulling the dash will certainly make adding the wires to the Main Body ECU connectors and the Power Distribution Box Assembly connectors more difficult because the lack of space, but it very well still might be possible.

This is what my car looked like after pulling the dash:


I completely understand why someone wouldn't want to do this.

 

Also, I've only got one good hand, so it's actually easier for me to remove stuff to gain space rather than trying to do something fiddly in an extremely confined space. Someone with two good hands might be able to do all that wiring without removing the dash.