2008 Prius will NOT move + Code P0A90 Drive Motor “A” Performance

So I was watching a video last night on youtube where a guy takes the engine out (from the top) without removing the inverter or trans and it took them less than 2 hours. I was wondering if it may be worth taking the engine out instead to get to the damper rather than removing transmission since its apparently harder since it comes out the bottom and seen you have to remove the subframe.

 

I just ordered myself a Autel AP200, I hope it works as I am very disappointed my $1700 scanner couldnt do what an apparent $50 scanner will. BTW, yes it is currently $49.99 on sale at the moment if you have Prime on Amazon, down $10 from original price of $59.99

 

Update:

I removed the transmission today and gotta say It was quite a task but easier than other cars. I was surprised to see the damper intact as well as the other end of the transmission had NO grind marks. I could have sworn the grinding noise was the damper plate springs that were broken. One thing I did notice is the transmission had what appear to be “hairline cracks”, I am not sure if they’re actual cracks or the casting is that way but the replacement transmission has a smooth face. I did notice the damper spring clips had some very slight play. I am concerned about removing it as according to LAM’s trans removal guide on here says the bolts are hard to torque the last 90 degrees and there is no alignment tool to reinstall it.

Do you guys think I should remove the damper? I am leaning 80% to doing so as I do have a used replacement and really want to see behind it of there is anything broken there. Its just the re-torquing and installation im fearing now. If removed, can it go in any way or is it like a timing belt that needs to be set at a certain position before removing? I have NOT found any videos online or guides on how to replace the damper so want to make sure before I do it.

Here are the photos, If you see the last few of the part with the output shaft and perhaps zoom in around it, that is where the hariline cracks are. They are more prominent in the last photo before I cleaned it with brake cleaner :

 

A grinding noise isn't even a kind of noise you'd typically associate with the damper. According to 2 videos that can be found on youtube a grinding noise is a possible sound that happens when the springs on the outer clutch-like plate break off as they will grind with the rotation of the plate hence creating the “roughed up scratches” on the trans side videos have shown (not sure what to call that wall, where mine has the hairline cracks). If the coil springs get busted out of it, it will make a hammer-banging noise as it bangs to one end then the other of the travel that the springs were there to limit. And even when it does that, it likely isn't the culprit, but a casualty of some other problem that had been causing an engine misfire for too long. The car did NOT have any misfires prior to the issue with the noise. I put a stethoscope and grinding noise was coming from the trans side. Now that the trans is out and I do not see any physical damage other than what I mentioned that appears to look like hairline cracks, I may just need to open it up and inspect the planetary gears and chain. Also, for how common you say it is, when doing a search on here, there is no specific information about it that I found that would assist me with the P0A90 along with the grinding noise I was having. If you could kindly share a link to one of the posts where someone replaces the damper or has done other troubleshooting for a grinding noise in the trans, I would appreciate it.

Now that you have the transmission out, if you grab the input shaft and turn it, what do you hear/feel? Nothing out of the ordinary, spins freely.

How about when sticking some axle shafts into the output splines and turning those? Same, nothing out of ordinary.

The trouble code you have pertains to the performance of MG2, and might be related. Correct, I was unable to find the sub code (3 digit after P0A90) as none of my scanners would give it and when I finally got one that did (AP200), the code would not come up without me turning the car on and leaving it on for a while and with the grinding noise I couldnt do that.

Finally, Thank you for chiming in on this!

 

Also, forgot to mention that the longer cv axle from the passenger side came apart from the trans side when trying to remover it. The boot came off and i ended up just removing the axle and leaving the head in the transmission. With this being said, can this be rebuilt by me at home or are they no longer good once they come apart? I figured they just needed a clean up and a re grease but not sure.

 

The axle felt pretty solid with spongy movement unlike others I've felt that are limp. I figured a repack of grease would fix it but not sure which is why I asked. So which specific grease should I buy and try to repack? Poly Urea?

 

I finally found a video showing the exact same noise coming from the same place as mine and everything is identical (dirty black smelly oil), code p0A90 along with a P0335 crankshaft pos sensor code. Although in russian, this is the only video I found online of someone showing the sound, showing where its coming from and ultimately showing the location of the failure. This now gives me the confidence to perhaps leave the damper in and tear down the old transmission to see if I had the same failure inside the satellite gear (spline) or whatever that was called.

Guy eventually replaces the transmission and said the issue was resolved. WIll post results once I open it up. It will be a good donor to understand the inside of these transmissions more. If anyone wants to see anything specific inside it, this one is a good candidate to show just lmk.

Here is the video. If you click on CC and change from russian to english, you can at least read what the guy says.