Lots of questions, if you can answer any that would be great.

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Prius92, Jun 24, 2025 at 8:05 PM.

  1. Prius92

    Prius92 Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2019
    500
    111
    0
    Location:
    Iowa
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    II
    I can hear it running. When I have time I'm gonna check out the ducting.
     
    ColoradoCrow likes this.
  2. Prius92

    Prius92 Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2019
    500
    111
    0
    Location:
    Iowa
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Ducting is fine. I'll have to tear into it when it's not as hot out.

    One last thing, sometimes while stopped at a stoplight, the car will start jerking forward, like pulsing while doing it. The gas engine isn't revving up or down tho. The car isn't obviously moving since I have my foot on the brake, but it feels like I'm being repeatedly pushed from behind.
     
  3. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

    Joined:
    May 2, 2019
    2,233
    664
    0
    Location:
    Southern California
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    Is that just when stopping? On our 2007 when it isn't fully warmed up sometimes when coming to a stop it sort of jumps around, like the motor can't quite decide whether it wants to be on or off. This only lasts a second or two. Once fully stopped though and the motor is off there are no more hiccups. It doesn't do that once it has warmed up. It has been like that for the full 6 (ish) years we have owned it. If a Prius feels like it wants to move with the foot on the brake after it has been stopped for a while then most likely the ICE is still going, which feels strange on this car since it is normally off in that situation. The ICE might still be going if the pack is failing, because the ECU doesn't want to shut off the ICE if it isn't confident it can turn it back on again.
     
  4. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

    Joined:
    May 2, 2019
    2,233
    664
    0
    Location:
    Southern California
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    As in, you took off all the pieces blocking the view of the ducting and it all seemed to be there?

    I would suggest after warming the car up fully detaching the last piece, the one that pushes air out the side of the car over the 12V battery. Then turn it back on and verify that harm air is coming out where it should. An instant read food thermometer might be useful to measure the temperature of that air.

    I'm trying to recall the details, but I believe there was a foam rubber baffle on the top of the battery whose purpose was to keep the cooling air near the modules instead of blowing out over the electronics section. If that was missing or damaged the battery might run hot.
     
  5. Prius92

    Prius92 Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2019
    500
    111
    0
    Location:
    Iowa
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Ya, the engine "kicks" it's when it's not fully warmed up. So that makes sense.

    I'm starting to think there might be an issue where for whatever reason the computer in the hybrid pack is sensing higher temps than there actually is, as the ducting is fine and I can hear the blower.

    I can't imagine going down the road when it's in the low 80s with the AC on (inside of car 67ish degrees) would cause the modules to heat up to over 120 degrees.

    It's not like there's a trunk that would block off the flow of cold air from the AC.

    I'm going to get up early tomorrow when it's supposed to be about 67 outside and measure the temps with the ignition on but not running and see if it's close to ambient. If I'm seeing temps in the 90's then something else is going on causing incorrect readings.
     
  6. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

    Joined:
    May 2, 2019
    2,233
    664
    0
    Location:
    Southern California
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    There could still be a problem with the little swinging door mechanism where the warm air exits the inside of the car. If that was sticking in some way it could throttle the flow of cooling air even if everything else in the system was perfect. Probably not, but check it.

    Our Accord had an issue vaguely like that where some of the little rubber boots that let water from the sunroof out into the wheel wells were jammed up with dirt and/or partially stuck shut. The water would then back up the tube and leak into the car instead. On the car it all looked proper but when the boots were pulled out it became clear why water was backing up. A similar issue affects the drain holes on the bottom of car doors - those get jammed up and then water rises inside the door and eventually drains out into the car rather than out onto the sill on the far side of the rubber door gasket and down onto the ground.
     
  7. Prius92

    Prius92 Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2019
    500
    111
    0
    Location:
    Iowa
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    II
    The ambient air temp this morning was 71 degrees.

    I stuck a thermocouple down the hole in the top of the pack and measured 74 degrees with the fan running.

    Even after running the HV battery fan full blast, leaving the door open so fresh cool outside air would go in, the lowest I could get the pack to read via Dr Prius was 82 degrees.

    Before I forced the fan to run, the pack was measuring 90.6 degrees.

    There's no duct obstructions, no air leakage, anything, and that door you mentioned was working fine.

    Here's what I found odd.

    The car had sat 12 hours and allowed to cool down, and it got down to like 59 last night.

    The battery pack measured 5 degrees warmer than the rest of the car. I'm not sure why.