DIY Battery Rebuild Success… Except the Red Triangle

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by klerk99, Jun 29, 2025 at 1:05 PM.

  1. klerk99

    klerk99 New Member

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    I've been wanting to get a Gen 2 Prius for 12 years now. A few months ago it finally happened. I bought a Gen 2 Toyota Prius 2009. The car would not start; it had a dead 12V battery. I was able to get the dashboard to light up with a jump-start battery. I brought the car home and connected Dr. Prius. The hybrid battery seemed in very bad shape—some modules had 0 voltage. The owner said it sat for 6 months in the winter, so it made sense.

    So I decided to try to refurbish it myself. I bought the EV-Peak CQ3 with temperature probes and followed all the guidelines here (BTW, thanks to the great community here). I ended up replacing 10 modules since they had 0 voltage, but the rest I was able to bring back to around ~5 Ah discharge. After I finished charging all modules, I then balanced them: connected all "-" terminals with wire and all "+" terminals with another wire. I left it like this for around 10 days to balance out.

    Then the moment of truth arrived. I put the battery back in the case and in the car, connected the brand-new 12V battery, and the triangle of death was still showing… After so much work, money, and time spent reading.

    I connected Dr. Prius, and I was seeing all modules were green, but the values were fluctuating continuously. One or two modules seemed pretty steady, but the rest were all over the place. The fluctuation did not seem that large to me, but it was very frequent, which did not seem right. Since some modules seemed steady, I thought there had to be some modules that might be unstable that are causing this fluctuation. So I rearranged some of the modules: I kept the 10 modules I bought refurbished together, and then I rearranged the older ones based on how many cycles I had to run to get it fixed. I was thinking that the more cycles I had to do, the worse the module, so I was trying to put the bad modules in the same pack, and hopefully I can correlate the fluctuation with the bad modules. This kind of worked; I isolated like two modules that seemed to fluctuate the most, but others still have some fluctuation….

    Some of the old modules were charged 2 months apart. (I was busy with other work), so maybe they got discharged too much.

    When I first took it apart, the plastic around some of the bus bars looked melted. There was corrosion everywhere. It seemed like the battery was refurbished before, but whoever put it back did a very poor job since some nuts were not properly fastened. I got new bus bars and the whole plastic with sensor wiring harness.

    Also, 4 of the modules seemed to corrode pretty fast. While I was charging, I could see corrosion build up on the terminals. When I balanced them, I saw corrosion starting to build on the wire around their negative terminal. I got them to around 5Ah discharge, but maybe they have something wrong going on in them causing this and maybe causing the fluctuation I see on Dr. Prius.

    I am a bit unsure of what to do next. I have a few ideas:

    • Try to narrow down the modules that cause the large swings and do a couple cycles on them to see if that fixes it.

    • Replace the 4 modules with corrosion issues with refurbished ones from eBay. I plan to get them from the same person I got the 10 ones from.

    • The 12V battery had been sitting for 3 months now, and it was showing in Dr. Prius that it was at 12V, and my voltmeter was showing 12.4V, so I am giving that a charge as well. Probably not related, but I wanted to make sure I ruled that out.
    The screenshot is after I rearranged the modules. I also have a video but I'm too new here to post the link. I'll try to share that soon.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I didn't really read all that you wrote, just to the part where you were going to revive modules that had 0 volts.

    You can't fix something that's not fixable. Most of the time when the module goes below 7.2v, 1 or more of the individual cells have failed. So your best bet at this point would be to find a used battery from a junkyard or a crashed vehicle.

    Also I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, there are many parts that need replacement on a Gen2 car. Some of which can be very expensive, like a brake actuator pump. So tread lightly on fixing this battery because once this car starts up, you'll most likely find more problems to address. Don't start throwing tons of money at the car or you'll never get it back if you decide you must sell later.
     
  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I read a little bit more: made me think the 0 volt modules got pitched. :)
     
  4. klerk99

    klerk99 New Member

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    My bad, I probably gave too many details. I actually wanted to say that I replaced the 0v modules with "new" refurbished ones from eBay. So that is not the problem.

    The problem I have is that I'm still getting the triangle of death and not sure what is the problem...in Dr. Prius I keep seeing the modules fluctuating but not sure why.... here is a video.
     
  5. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    You have the red triangle warning light - what codes do you have?

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  6. 2007blueprius

    2007blueprius Member

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    I second this, just went through this myself, the battery was not the problem, I had 3 bad ECU, 2 with corroded pins, but even after repairs they still had issues, one threw codes about the current sensor, another had some other issues I could not repair, sensing wires had corrosion issues too, the codes the car pulled led me to buy a used eBay computer, got lucky to get a good one, new sensing wires, the batteries weren't really a problem
     
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  7. klerk99

    klerk99 New Member

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    Dumb question, how do I check the codes?
     
  8. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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  9. Hayslayer

    Hayslayer Member

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    Getting the actual codes would the first thing, otherwise there's a crazy long list of guesses that could be made.
    Along that line, some simple things I've seen:
    The safety disconnect not installed properly. (3 steps..slide in, rotate lever to fully seat disconnect, push straight down to seat interlock plug)
    The wire at the bottom of the safety disconnect socket not reconnected.
    The current sensor not reconnected
    A module shorted to the case
    The case not fastened to the car body