RTOD – how bad can it be?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Jim x 3, Jul 12, 2025 at 8:35 PM.

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  1. Jim x 3

    Jim x 3 New Member

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    My first chat post. Please be nice.

    2007 Prius.

    3/24/2024 96,385 miles: HV battery was replaced with a new Toyota battery
    4/22/2025 125,840 miles: the RTOD with P3000, P3020, B1421
    Battery Block 10 weak
    7/7/2025 133,352 miles: the RTOD with P3000, P3020, B1421
    7/10/2025 600 miles later: same DTCs again
    7/10/2025 40 miles later: same DTCs again

    OK, so I’m starting to pay attention. Block 10 voltage is 15.80. Next (lowest) is block 4 15.99. Highest block voltage is 16.16.

    Is it the “red triangle of death”, or “doom”?

    What should my next steps be?

    Thanks and regards,

    Jim x 3
     
  2. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    You don't say who replaced it, but if it were an OEM new fitted by Toyota, it should still be under a 3-Year warranty.

    If it were an OEM new part fitted by a non-Toyota shop, it still should have had a 1-year warranty, which would have just run out by 29 days when the problem first occurred. I would have tried to have it replaced by Toyota at that point through the original shop. However, you are 3 months on from that now, so if it were not Toyota, it has become a whole lot harder to claim a warranty replacement.

    Having said all that, it is very unusual to have a new Toyota battery fail in such a short time.

    Maybe there is more to this story you are not telling us.
     
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  3. Jim x 3

    Jim x 3 New Member

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    Thanks for your reply.

    I don't have any secrets here - what can I add?

    I purchased the replacement from a Toyota dealership parts department. The part cost about $1950 with a $1300 core charge. I did the work myself. I'm not an auto mechanic but I had the requisite tools. I am a professional electrician - the system design was well understood and the swap was straightforward with no surprises. I picked up the new battery in its sarcophagus on a Friday and did the swap over a weekend. The sarcophagus on the pallet does fit in the hatchback with the rear seats down.

    The car previously belonged to my parents and it did not do well since they were old and did not exercise it regularly. My impression is that a 2 or 3 months interval between uses is death for this car. They are now gone. Conversely, my daily commute is about 75 miles 1-way. Almost all of that is freeway miles at high speed, 55-85 mph with frequent accelerations and decelerations for traffic. Cruise control is never possible. My mileage has been consistent and good - about 43 mpg.

    Since there was a simple 1 year warranty, I didn't think it fair to ask Toyota for any consideration.

    What else do you need to know?

    regards,
    Jim x 3
     
  4. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Master warning light hath nothing to do with any deaths . Master warning is oil. water temp or look at these other orange lites puhleez.
     
  5. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    The Master Warning Light comes on when there is a hybrid system problem.

    Oil, water temp, etc, will be signalled by the MIL (message information light), AKA check engine light (CEL) or on the MFD by way of an icon on the top status bar.

    He's right, though; there are no deaths.
     
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  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    And to the OP's question, there are a couple hundred different choices for "hybrid system problem" that can make the Master Warning Light come on. They can range all the way from "you need a new transmission" or "you need a new battery" down to simple issues you fix in 5 minutes and you're on your way.

    So it's almost perfectly useless trying to guess. Read the trouble codes that say why the light has come on, and then there's more to talk about.
     
  7. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    I wasn't meaning to imply you were hiding anything, but it did feel like there was more to know. You provided more details in your next post. So, unless you inadvertently did something (or failed to do something) during the install, then it is unusual that you should be getting the bad block DTC.
    Even so, there is a reasonable expectation that the battery should last 8 to 10 years. Given that, I would expect Toyota to be receptive to warranty support, given that it failed in 12 months, 29 days. I guess they would need to be assured that the installation was done correctly and did not contribute to the failure.

    I don't know that there is much more to add.
     
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  8. Jim x 3

    Jim x 3 New Member

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    Thanks for your replies.

    Trouble codes were in my first post.

    I don't believe the installation has contributed. Aside from the battery weight, the installation was pretty easy (as compared to replacing the ABS actuator/accumulator). Knowing the design and history here, my feeling is that I've probably got 1 bad (weak) module in the block 10 pair and the rest of the battery is good. It seems a shame to now replace the entire battery again (per Toyota policy). Its also clear the car is operationally dead until this is addressed.

    The internal resistances in each block as reported out by the car are all 24-25 milliohms except for block 10 which reports out at 34 milliohms. I didn't get a reading of the internal resistances when the battery was first installed. Does anyone know what these values should be?

    I'm not adverse to disassembling the battery pack to replace 1 bad module, but I would need a new, not used, module for this.

    My expectations for the battery were more than 13 months as well. I thought perhaps my daily aggressive freeway driving was somehow a contributor to the failure.

    Regards,
    Jim x 3
     
    #8 Jim x 3, Jul 13, 2025 at 1:16 PM
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2025 at 1:26 PM
  9. highmilesgarage

    highmilesgarage Active Member

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    need the story on what did you do when RTOD happened at the below dates?

    4/22/2025 125,840 miles: the RTOD with P3000, P3020, B1421
    Battery Block 10 weak

    What happens here? did you just drive it with the RTOD on or it just disappeared?

    7/7/2025 133,352 miles: the RTOD with P3000, P3020, B1421

    same here.. what did you do for 600 miles?
     
  10. Jim x 3

    Jim x 3 New Member

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    I must confess I've been in denial that this was and would become a chronic problem.

    In April when the RTOD came on I was on my commute home. I stopped at the closest auto parts store since I had no idea what the trouble was. "Battery Block 10 becomes weak". I drove home, about 45 miles, with the RTOD in the dash. The commute had been on an especially hot day, with a mix of high speed driving and stop-and-go. With the RTOD the battery ventilator came on high. Otherwise the car seemed to drive normally and I noticed no abnormal behavior. At home I checked block voltages and internal resistance values. I reset the codes and hoped. For a while the problem seemed to have been a one-time issue.

    In July, on 7/7 I drove for about 100 miles before I could get back home. I noticed that the car's behavior seemed to degrade during that time. Regeneration during braking and general use of the battery for acceleration seemed to be curtailed as time passed. Codes were cleared at home. Again block 10 voltage was lowest and internal resistance was highest.

    On the other July dates the codes were cleared almost immediately. The car is now at home and I'm not driving it further. In no case did the RTOD disappear on its own.

    The question now is how to proceed.

    Jim x 3