Polls? Give me a break. No (they have almost no failures) and no (maybe $1500 if you can find a salvaged v transaxle NOT a hatchback transaxle AND a good independent hybrid shop ). What are the symptoms and issues you had? Not just a dealers report. From tech 80054 CONNECTED THE SCAN TOOL TO THE VEHICLE. PULLED CODE U0110-160 (LOST COMMUNICATION WITH DRIVE MOTOR CONTROL MODULE A). CHECKED THE MODULE A) CONVERTER INVERTER WITH CONVERTER ASSEMBLY (GENERATOR CABLE CONNECTION CONDITION). THE BOLTS ARE TORQUED PROPERLY AND THERE ARE NO ARC MARKS FOUND. CHECKED THE CHECK INVERTER WITH CONVERTER ASSEMBLY (MOTOR CABLE CONNECTION CONDITION). THE BOLTS ARE TORQUED PROPERLY AND THERE ARE NO ARC MARKS FOUND. I CHECKED THE HYBRID VEHICLE TRANSMISSION AXLE ASSEMBLY (MG1) WITH A MILLIMETER. THE READINGS ON THE CABLE ARE: PINS PINS W-U= 32M OHMS, PINS U-V= 30.9M OHMS, AND PINS V-W= 95.35M OHMS. THE FIRST 2 READINGS ARE OUT OF PARAMETERS SET IN THE REPAIR MANUAL (89.5M OHMS TO 98.9M OHMS). NEXT, I CHECKED THE HYBRID VEHICLE TRANSMISSION NEXT, THE READINGS ON AXLE ASSEMBLY (MG2) WITH A MILLIMETER. THE READINGS ON THE CABLE ARE: PINS W-U= 161.7M OHMS, PINS U-V= 21M OHMS, AND PINS V-W= 15M OHMS. THE SECOND 2 READINGS ARE OUT OF PARAMETERS SET IN THE REPAIR MANUAL IN THE (APPROXIMATELY 151.6M OHMS TO 174M OHMS). AT THIS TIME, THE REPAIR MANUAL IS DIRECTING ME TO REPLACE THE HYBRID VEHICLE MOTOR/GENERATOR ASSEMBLY (TRANSMISSION) AND RECHECK OPERATION. I might focus on the communication problem which is not in the transaxle. Inverters on gen3s have a history of issues.
Who’s the caps-locked text attachment from? What’s the symptoms? what’s the miles? how about some backstory?
I'd try another dealer. In a class action legal settlement, the inverter has an extended warranty,which means that it us still covered.
They have a very low failure rate, but you could get a winding failure or lost ATF and kept driving it with low ATF - which would also destroy it. The failure rate is so low that I wouldn't hesitate to replace it with a used one; assuming the person who diagnosed it, got it right. The reason I question this is most winding failures either short or open - they're usually not just a few mega-ohms off. @Georgina Rudkus; double check that the problem isn't in the inverter assembly, because the test could've been botched - if the inverter wasn't disconnected. Hope this helps....
Thanks for the info. Car stalls at random times while in motion. Loses all power. Many lights in dash light up. Power steering and brakes work while rolling it to a stop. Turn it off and only one light usually stays on (yellow car with an exclamation mark through it). Car won't move until I've turned it in and off a few more times. The light eventually goes off. Car runs normally between stalls (no shuddering or hesitations). Thank you. Do you think the inverter could be causing the ohm readings?? Thank you. I will ask the dealership if the inverter was disconnected at the time the PINS were ohm tested. Would a car with a transmission problem shudder and have hesitation? Could it just stall intermittently at random intervals?
One member here (forget the name, resided in Cape Caneveral IIRC), replaced his transaxle with a salvage unit, and enocountered problems, apparently due to it sitting around, unsealed, in the elements.
A v transaxle has to be replaced with another v unit. But the inverter fits your symptoms. It definitely can cause stalls.
Ok, it wasn't clear in the other thread that the dealer had taken mΩ readings of the MG windings. If those are suspicious, those are suspicious. But I still might want to retrace the diagnostic steps. It would be extra weird to have winding failures of both MG1 and MG2. I wonder about the technician's technique with the milliohm meter. My TIS subscription isn't paid up at the moment so I can't follow along in the troubleshooting steps for U0110-160. If it were my car, I probably would re-up my subscription so I could.
Would you recommend a 2-day, monthly, or year subscription? I thought about joining Identifix. This is a nice care with a clean title.
The yearly probably makes more sense if you intend to run a repair shop. Many DIYers with a simple project will get a shorter subscription and maybe download some materials they think they'll need. If you haven't used TIS before and you don't object to the price of a month, that gives you a nice comfortable period to find your way around it without hearing a ticking clock in the back of your head.