Can anyone help me with step by step on how to check EVAP system for leaks?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by 2GenPrius, Jul 12, 2025.

  1. 2GenPrius

    2GenPrius Member

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    I posted a video link on Reddit and didn't get much responses. I unplugged the line that goes to the purge valve and hooked up a smoke machine, had smoke coming out of the gas cap area, took the gas cap off, it rattled, so replaced it with a brand new OEM one, did the smoke test again, smoke kept coming out.

    I had a question, when unscrewing the gas cap, is it supposed to have a vacuum? I remember having it when I first got the car, now I don't have it anymore. As mentioned, cap is brand new OEM from dealer and no rattle.

    When car idles, smell of strong unburnt fuel but no CEL, smells almost like fuel vapor oddly. I thought between no pressure sound from the gas cap that the system is not sealed somewhere. When I hooked up the smoke machine, one of the instructors from the school said its a rather large leak because the PSI meter was really high. Problem is again, no CEL.

    Is there a step by step on how to check the Prius EVAP system on a Gen3? I'm pretty sure my problem lies there, unless someone else has other ideas.
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Get under car to see filler neck hoses etc what do you see from that angle look wet cap o ring lands in neck now maybe notice smokes not from neck o ring and is maybe wafting up from below the neck . Ya see smoke coming from tubing below wer you at now?
     
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  3. BiomedO1

    BiomedO1 Senior Member

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    You need multiple failures of the EVAP self diagnostic before it sets a CEL. If you have a good enough scan tool, you should see pending codes. The simple fact that you can see smoke during a smoke test, tells me you have a large leak someplace. That's assuming you've hooked up the machine properly. The question I have is why is the PSI high? Does that gauge indicate that your generating a lot of smoke, not system pressure? If you have a large leak, shouldn't the pressure be zero since you have a large leak and you see smoke escaping???? Is the purge valve stuck open and the source of your smoke?
    You'll need to jack up the car and either crawl underneath or pull the rear tire and inner fender liner to do a proper inspection with the smoke machine.

    FWIW; that's an automatic fail during a California smog inspection.
     
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  4. 2GenPrius

    2GenPrius Member

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    I hooked up the machine to the line that comes off the purge valve which runs to the back of the car and rest of the evap system. I took the purge valve itself and blew into it and it didn't leak air. So the leak must be from somewhere in the rear.

    When I was using the Snap-on leak detector at school, the instructor said that the smoke machine uses the PSI meter to determine how large the leak is. When we set the knob, it was set to a high psi amount but the machine didn't work consistently.

    For a scan tool, I use Torque Pro and an ELM compatible Bluetooth adapter. How long and how many miles do I need to drive to see the pending codes?
     
  5. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I think if you look back in the back of the car where the filler neck fuel tube is and all that related nonsense I believe you're leak is back there and it's just wafting up around filler neck . So when you look at the business end of filler neck which is behind sheet metal and liner.
     
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  6. BiomedO1

    BiomedO1 Senior Member

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    Sounds like your unfamiliar with the equipment that your using and/or the equipment your using is defective, or it's simple operator error.
    Find a simple vacuum gauge with a manual pump. Disconnect the same hose you used for the smoke machine test. Hook-up that vacuum with manual pump and draw a vacuum on the system, It shouldn't leak. That's a simpler test of system integrity. If that's your daily driver and you haven't thrown a code in several days of operations - your most likely chasing a ghost........

    Good Luck......
     
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  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk MMX GEN III

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    This might help. if not, let me know, I'll look more.
     

    Attached Files:

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  8. 2GenPrius

    2GenPrius Member

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    Thank you both. I'll go get a vacuum tester and try to draw a vacuum out of the line mention, if it doesn't hold (as I suspect it wont), then I'll report back either way.

    I wanted to ask, I saw the diagnostics instructions required Techstream. Is there any version out there that isn't crawling with malware? I checked with my school and unfortunately they don't have it.
     
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  9. 2GenPrius

    2GenPrius Member

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    Hi all,

    Car finally threw a CEL; P0456
    When I check the monitors in TorquePro, it states that the Purge Flow Monitor is "Not Ok".

    Thing is, when I took out my Purge Valve with it out of the car, I did the blow test on it and it held closed, or at least to my opinion. Just got a vacuum pump and will be checking both sides of the valve tomorrow, and will also try to draw vacuum from the purge line coming from the rear tomorrow.
     
  10. 2GenPrius

    2GenPrius Member

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    Update:

    Ran the smoke machine and verified the entire system going to the is intact.

    I even pulled the purge valve and pressurized it on both sides to verify the seal was intact. From the flow in side, it couldn't hold higher pressure. However, on the outlet side, it was able to withstand much high pressure/vacuum. I figured this is normal operation because an engine would draw vacuum, right?

    Anyways, should I trust what Torque Pro is saying and replace the purge flow valve anyways? The problem is the car smells like its running rich and I read that its likely if the purge flow valve is bad/going bad.
     
  11. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    P0456 is a "small leak detected" failing result from the evap leak monitor. It's detected according to what happens in stage C of the self-test sequence:

    [​IMG]

    In all of stages A, B, and C, the purge valve is supposed to be closed, and stage B ought to have confirmed that, by being able to draw a vacuum before stage C activates the vent valve.

    I don't have a quick answer for where your leak is, but I have a feeling that just proceeding step-by-step through the "INSPECTION PROCEDURE" in the repair manual will be the surest way to success.

    For many trouble codes, there is an "INSPECTION PROCEDURE" right in the repair manual section for the code. Not so for the EVAP trouble codes (at least in the 2010 manual copy I'm looking at). The section for each code just has "INSPECTION PROCEDURE Refer to the EVAP System [INFO]" and they are all referring to a separate 38-page section that is just headed "EVAP System" and has a 28-page "INSPECTION PROCEDURE".

    Toyota Service Information and Where To Find It | PriusChat
     
  12. 2GenPrius

    2GenPrius Member

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    Thank you for your reply.

    I actually followed directions off this YouTube video, and apparently, even with the engine warmed up, my car won't pull vacuum from the purge valve solenoid. It's weird because it won't set off a code either.



    Can any of you confirm that there is a vacuum present from this hose/connection? It's a fairly easy thing to pull off, since its essentially the metal hose running along the right side of the plenum.
     
  13. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    A 'tube that isn't Prius-specific and isn't based on the "EVAP System" inspection procedure in the repair manual might be kind of a red herring.
     
  14. 2GenPrius

    2GenPrius Member

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    That's maybe true, but it is a Toyota, and it makes sense that there would be vacuum to draw intake after the vehicle has warmed up. I found it concerning that there was no vacuum whatsoever.