Want to use a Gen 2 transaxle in my VW Kombi upgrade

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by T1 Terry, Aug 4, 2025 at 11:49 PM.

  1. T1 Terry

    T1 Terry Active Member

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    I have the ex taxi '08 Gen 2 with 750,000 kms on it (at least) and I'm thinking seriously of using this to repower my '74 Kombi, replacing the 4 sp gearbox and ICE.

    I'm planning on adding the Zombie Inverter board to the Gen 2 inverter and bypassing the buck/boost converter, feeding directly into the inverter input. This should allow me to run the 51kwh LFP battery from the MG4, or the 64kwh NMC battery from the other MG4, both of which are in my workshop yard at the moment.

    Johu on the Open Inverter forum says they don't have much torque or power, but running off the NiMh battery and the 40Ah LFP battery for the extended range in my '06 Prius, drove ok as electric only, up to 80km/h.
    With MG1 being driven as well as MG2 and the 400vdc MG4 battery, what do members here think, would it be enough power to drive a '74 VW Kombi?

    T1 Terry
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    You ever talk to any of the guys over on the Toyota modification server like Blizilla on the net . I can't remember everybody's name over there this was years ago they're were flyboys from NZ modding chaterham cars and such w Toyoda period powerplants . They were doing extensive modifications to all kinds of vehicles with Toyoda drive trains . Even going to other countries on military flights picking up engines and front clips . Etc its all their in twenty some odd years of texts since you've got mail . These guys I'm sure would have insight . Maybe they're all expired now . Who knows..
     
  3. T1 Terry

    T1 Terry Active Member

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    Thanks for the lead, but I think they were into petrol engines. I went through that stage in the '90s, build a number of the standard cast iron head 18R 2ltrs engines into 2.2ltr 13.5:1 compression Yamaha twin can heads with special grind cams and twin Weber 45 carbies. These things would rev to 12,000 rpm and take on any street car .... except for our 250 Cortina with a cross flow head and turbo, that did 9's over the 1/4 mile ... complete with the baby seat in the back, it was his drive car after all :rolleyes:

    Built enough performance piston engine cars, I want to build an EV Kombi using the Gen 2 Prius transaxle and the Zombie inverter board Damien Maguire and the members of the open inverter forum are developing.
    500v is around the most MG1 and MG2 can handle apparently, but Damien has put 145 amps through MG1 without on over current trip and 250 amps through MG2.

    MG1 @ 145 amps and allowing serious voltage sag down to 300vdc = 43.5kw and MG2 @ 250 amps x 300vdc = 75kw for a total of 118.5kw ..... the original 1800 4 cyl air cooled put out 65hp on a good day ..... So I'm not sure where Juho on the Open Inverter forum gets the idea they are under powered for the job .....

    I was hoping someone on this forum might have played with one of the Gen 2 transaxles and could fill me in if I'm dreaming or it could be a reality.

    Everyone does the Leaf motor and transmission swap, I want to do something different ;)o_O

    T1 Terry
     
  4. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    I'm decades out of practice but I used to rebuild VW type 2s for a living.

    Just going from raw specs the 2nd generation Prius powerplant should do just fine in there. Even the 1974 camper (serial # 234....) is only a little heavier than that Prius. It'll gain some weight from the powerplant swap, but not too crazy.

    Personally I think your biggest challenges will be adapting the engine/transmission mounts, and the cooling system.

    It shouldn't be too hard to do a tube frame that adapts the stock VW rear engine support beam mounting points, and I'd think you could re-use the stock VW transmission front mount the same way. Just need to make up a cradle from tubing. Consider doing a bit of the tube frame underneath near the center of gravity since you're converting from an engine that was meant to be installed via overhead sling into one meant to be removed by jack underneath- you'll want to create a pad area safe to hold the assembly on a jack saddle.

    It shouldn't be too hard to get axle shafts made up, use the inner halves of the stock Toyota shafts butt-welded onto most of the stock VW shafts, though you may need to weld in an extra extension on the right side make up the extra length since you're switching from a symmetrical to asym setup.

    For cooling? That's gonna be fun. The stock air intakes on the D pillars are only useful if you maintain an airlock around the cooling fan. The stock VW achieved this between the tin shields and the foam surround gasket, so the pulley-mount blower was the only way for air to pass through that chamber.

    I don't think it will be practical to create the same kind of air dam around the replacement powerplant, so you might do best by hanging a rad on the nose and doing long plumbing like the Brazilian-built watercooled breadloaf buses. That's a lot of custom bodywork and it really changes the nose appearance. About the only other thing I could think of would be to do a belly-mount radiator, a bit like the way VW did the air conditioning condenser in the stock '74 models... but that was a very rare option, you may not have seen that. Or possibly cut vents into the side of the engine room and hang a scoop on the outside, much like the aftermarket setup for the 1965-1967 buses. Fair over the D-pillar intakes.

    Should be an interesting project, I wish you luck!
     
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  5. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    That's what a lot of those fellas on that old Toyota site we're doing crazy stuff.
     
  6. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Have you ever seen the Gen2 that was built to run on the electric bus lines in San Francisco? They basically filled the vehicle up with resistors to get the voltage and amps low enough.

    Anyways, keep us updated... Please post some pics! It's hard to make sense of what you're looking at without that.
     
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  7. T1 Terry

    T1 Terry Active Member

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    Sounds great. I only need to cool the inverter and transaxle, and of course, the battery pack. The MG4 has two separate cooling systems, one for each, that is integrated with the HVAC via a heat exchanger ..... if I can get my head around that and how the Prius air HVAC inverter is controlled, maybe I can utilise all that to both cool the transaxle and inverter, the battery pack and cool/heat the inside of the Kombi.

    I'm looking at removing the heater tube, gearshift rod and anything else I can find that is excess to requirements, from under the Kombi, then mount the MG4 battery pack under the floor, same way as the MG4 does it, so the HVAC condenser/evaporator will need to be up front I think ..... easiest way to do it ....... maybe easy isn't the right choice of words ;):eek:

    T1 Terry
     
  8. T1 Terry

    T1 Terry Active Member

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    Do you have any links to that project, that would help a lot.

    T1 Terry
     
  9. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    It's very easy to cut out the heater tube, it's very thin mild steel. The shifter rod can slide out towards the front iirc but that may have changed when they re-did the front floor pan for '73. With the stock transmission removed you should be able to get it out rearwards though.

    I'm not at all familiar with the battery you're talking about, but that underfloor space is only going to host something about 5" tall before that new thing becomes the scrapey low-point of the car, so be careful.
     
  10. T1 Terry

    T1 Terry Active Member

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    110mm or 4.3" so it should fit in there and has an aluminium case that the modules fit in to make it a flame proof enclosure .... even though LFP cells don't go up in flames, they use the same case for the NMC modules, but I can't find verification if the case size is the same for the 64kwh NMC and the 77kwh NMC batteries .... but the whole platform is the same size, only the gross weight changes between the installed battery size, I know the 51 LFP and 64 NMC use the same case, so I'm guessing the 77 long range does as well.

    I've owned this bay window kombi since '98, it has been in places I'd worry about taking any other 2wd vehicle, and never bellied it anywhere, or got it stuck where I couldn't drive it back out. With the battery under floor, it should make it a tad more stable .... "handles like a dog on lino" is a well known term for their cornering ability :ROFLMAO:

    T1 Terry
     
  11. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Agreed, not likely to scrape if it fits in there. That's why VW used that location for their heat augmentation system in the later models.

    It's always the nose scraping on the approach with those. Drove a few of them in... well certainly not the same places, but ones that could be described in the same words.

    Just re-reading this... you aren't going to transplant the entire Prius power system? Just the transaxle? I'm trying to picture how that would work... I guess weld the power split unit solid and tolerate the overall speed limitation? I'd think the result would be grossly underpowered without bringing the gas engine along in stock form.
     
  12. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    According to this article, the overhead lines supply 600 V.

    https://thebolditalic.com/hacked-prius-running-on-muni-power-lines-the-bold-italic-san-francisco-80cdbe55d68e

    Doesn't say AC or DC. Something else I found made me think AC, but I didn't find much.

    The boosted DC bus in gen 3 can be up to 650 V, so you might be able to do this trick with a gen 3 Prius and not a whole lot of work to adapt the voltage. Maybe get a second gen 3 inverter and make use of its IPM for that.

    I think the boost in gen 2 was only up to 500 V, so that's more of a challenge.

    Using resistors for dropping the voltage seems like about the least efficient choice. Plus I bet it's no fun sitting near those resistors on a hot day.

    If it's AC, a suitable transformer with a 600 V primary shouldn't be awfully hard to find.
     
  13. T1 Terry

    T1 Terry Active Member

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    Driving both MG1 and MG2 using the Zombie inverter board, MG2 in standard trim pumps out 50kw, with a welded planetary, MG1 puts out 10kw as a starter motor, but is capable of putting out 41kw and MG2 is capable of putting out 75kw if supplied enough current and voltage, that is the Zombie inverter boards job. The Buck/boost converter is bypassed and the battery fed straight into the inverter, ensuring full voltage and current can be supplied ...... If the smoke comes out, I'll have to chase up a Gen 3 inverter and transaxle, or a Nissan Leaf, but that might be over the top, I don't think I could use 150kw in a kombi ......

    T1 Terry