Help! Torque converter went bad?

any trouble lights? if not, i would look at the standard gas engine areas

 

What was your display showing for the HV battery state of charge when the engine was revving on the highway?

Your symptoms sound similar to what happens when the HV battery is draining itself due to the engine being low on power.
This can be caused by intake and exhaust restrictions preventing the engine from breathing properly under high demand (like highway speeds).

 

Mine was this way with dying Hv battery replaced and slipping stopped. Common actually

 

Agree. A bad hybrid battery will reduce mpg and power. The reality is battery power is used all the time. When it has diminished capacity you lose the ability to add horsepower at any speed and you lose the ability to store regen energy. Low regen storage means low mpg and low added horsepower.

Even if the hybrid battery is not supplying horsepower it is needed to run the eCvt transaxle, it is needed to run the ac compressor and it is used to supply 12v power when in Ready.

All without codes in some cases.

 

When my HV battery was bad in the '09 I could step on the gas and it would rev into oblivion and go almost no wer

 

probably not put on car start er rt up force charge it .

 

It depends for how long it's been sitting. With appropriate caution, put a voltmeter across it and see what it is. If it is less than 202 V, you will need to put some charge in it to get it to the 220 - 230 V range.

 

If you pull the cover off the second hand battery you have, measure the voltage across each module, there are 28 of them. you are looking for between 7vdc and 8vdc, You will probably find all the connectors(busbars) corroded, you need to take them off, clean with a wire brush and polish shiny using 400 grit wet and dry and kero on the last polish, you might need a lot coarser paper to start with, depends how bad the pitting is. If the washers captive on the nuts are flat rather than cone shaped, you will need to buy new nuts. Get an inch pound tension wrench for tightening the nuts to 49 in/lb, this is important, done think you know how tight that is .... too loose causes problems, too tight and the nut or stud strips.
Get some Alminox and paint both sides of the busbar and the terminals, as well as both sides of the tab that goes to the BMS module, also pull the plug on that and make sure the pins and terminals are all clean and not burnt ....

There are quite a few threads on this forum about recovering modules/batteries, worth reading, there is a charger designed for model plane/boat batteries that can be programmed to recharge the modules ......

Hope that helps

T1 Terry

 

Guessing my last post took too long form me to one finger peck out, but still a few things in there to check.

I double it is the inverter, you would have no drive at all, a broken spline between MG1 planetary carrier or the planetary itself .... I think starting the engine would also show up signs of noise if there was a problem there.

If you carefully check all the pins are clean in the BMS plug (Prius calls it a battery computer) and make sure all the small tabs make a good connection on the modules, then see if the centre screen shows green bars with a high module voltage like that .... if it doesn't, I'd look at replacing the sense wire harness first, then , if the other battery came complete with a BMS module, try swapping them over .....

The symptoms suggest the main computer is sensing a flat battery ..... but be aware, on full throttle, the engine screams like a banshee normally, a slight back off from the loud pedal will settle it down .... it is a bit of a "pedal feast" as they call it on Street Outlaws, to keep from slowing too much and avoid the motor revving madly.

We have a section of road between Home and the capital city Adelaide, 100km/h motorway, but a few hills that require careful pedal application ...... the new MG4 EV is so peaceful doing the same section on cruise control

 

You didn't load test those modules? It's the sustained output that drives those motors - the very definition of what a battery is suppose to do. Voltage reading is only ONE parameter that a battery needs to meet. I bet dollars to doughnuts that you have more than a few modules that'll fail a load test. If you watch the battery monitor, I also bet it recharges and discharges rather rapidly - a lot faster than a fully functional traction pack.

Hope this helps....