This is in regards to that 3 port water valve which gets replaced so much. MANY are bought but are not OEM but chinese knockoffs. Some may be Dorman as well. But the point is that many non OEM valves will fail with the P1121 again as did the original valve replaced. I had the same problem with which the Amazon bought valve lasted 2 month until the P1121 lite up again. Taking apart the original OEM valve the big gear within is very stiff even if drowned in WD40. I was stumped as to how you take that cover off to reveal the valve ports within. I see YouTube video on how someone did just do that....he had to cut the outer portion of the valve as well as cut the lower portion to free up the gear cover to show the ports and their sealing technology. My question is: HAS anyone been able to take that port cover off without saw zaw in hand ?
While I can confirm that one time I installed an aftermarket one 5 years ago that recently failed, but for the most part the lowest priced non-OEM ones I installed are not much different in terms of reliability.
Now hold on a sec do the fake valve look different? I just undo screws remove gear leave out set the door to mid way . I don't think I had to glue it. I just move it and it stayed. Now gear is not they're to move door in valve it thinks it moved the door it's plugged in and the call for door move is made I'm sure . But no move happens . I have pics I think
View attachment 278885 The after market valves look the same as the Toyota Genuine valves EXCEPT the "DENSO" stamped on the valve which denotes its made by Toyota as in Nippon Denso co. The others are all blank in that area. What I'm talking about is you remove the drive worm gear and pull off the giant gear. NOW can you pull up on the plastic spindle of the plastic gear to remove the cover of the ports and valves ? I mean you can see that its a cover as by the drive motor the plastic covers over part of the motor. But it looks like a press fit as prying with a screw driver does not work. But I am doing this as a curious retired mechanic as I like to explore about how things are assembles and work. I probably have to destroy it in order to take it apart LOL!
At this moment I erased by engine codes two days a go but the codes have not come back...but then I'm thinking...even though its HOT in southwest utah.....I ran the car with the AC off. Now I'm wondering....if I turn the AC on does that make the ECM want to command the valve to rotate..and if the valve defect not send the right value the code will come on ? I guess the drive gear could rotate the wheel but if the sensor detecting the position of the valve could also cause the error code. I probably have to resort to changing out the valve and to buy from Toyota....I have a Maxjak hoist at home so the job is not bad but still.....they say the 2nd time around I should cut my time easily by half !!
youtube.com/watch?v=VOKLLRW3Jc8 YouTube video on how one person cut the valve to reveal the valving scheme mechanism which is NOT easy to get to as witnessed the hacksaw cuts at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock on the main body of valve.
I don't get the need to cut the valve I justtook out gear moved shaft to midway point and left it . What's the point of cutting everything open what we wanna see ?
I'm curious as to what is the cause to make the gear rotation so harsh. Is it the seals. the outside cylinder wall or the center pivot seal ? OR its all of the above ?? Obviosly it was not made to be serviced witnessed by the construction of the inner port chamber supposedly just pressed in but its in there good. As I said before...I am curious to what made it so stiff to turn. hey maybe it just needs some zerk fitting(s) screwed in to keep it free to rotate.
