2010 battery pack swap?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by IwasBirchyFirst, Aug 27, 2025.

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  1. IwasBirchyFirst

    IwasBirchyFirst Junior Member

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    I have two gen3 2010 priuses. One has multiple issues, including throttle motor circuit low. While I also have the P0A80 code on it, that only happened when the throttle went out.
    The other has severe xxx, and I'm having to reset the DTC multiple times per use some days.

    Can I just swap the battery packs? Do the ECUs care if a different battery pack appears?

    What are the biggest challenges, and where can I find info?
     
    #1 IwasBirchyFirst, Aug 27, 2025
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Nope you can just unscrew your battery with the orange plug out and do the same to the other car and drop whatever battery you have while you have it out you might want to look under the hood and see how your bus bars nuts and wiring looks copper turning black is hi heat etc . Google here swapping batteries in the Gen 3 section and man you should have a load to read for a long time
     
    #2 Tombukt2, Aug 27, 2025
  3. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    You can just switch them.
    Pull the whole assemblies out, and switch them.
    Don't forget to disconnect the 12v battery.
    And the orange safety plugs!



     
    #3 ASRDogman, Aug 27, 2025
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  4. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    It sounds like you will soon have two 2010 Pruii that will not be functional per the three different threads that you started. You definitely don't know what you are doing!
     
    #4 Brian1954, Aug 27, 2025
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  5. IwasBirchyFirst

    IwasBirchyFirst Junior Member

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    #5 IwasBirchyFirst, Aug 27, 2025
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  6. IwasBirchyFirst

    IwasBirchyFirst Junior Member

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    #6 IwasBirchyFirst, Aug 27, 2025
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  7. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Here's one. It's for replacing the blocks. But obviously you can jump past that part if you want,
    and just watch the removal, then reinstalling parts.

    You don't HAVE to take the top cover off, since you're just going to swop them.
     
    #7 ASRDogman, Aug 27, 2025
  8. IwasBirchyFirst

    IwasBirchyFirst Junior Member

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    I did some searching in the forums and still have some questions.
    On this bad battery pack, the last time several times that I checked w TechStream, all the cells seemed to be within the 13.5-13.6v range.
    Is that significant? I'll hook back up tomorrow and try to get a more thorough documentation. Esp check for subcodes, that I just discovered exist.
    The dash display seems to be charging the system normally, drains down to two bars then charges upt to about 70%.
    I'm using a bluetooth TopDon CarPal to reset the DTCs, my TechStream is on a gigantic old laptop, that barely fits in the driver's seat with me.

    I've heard some say that only load testing the cells will reveal the bad ones, but most ppl talk about the TechStream voltages.
    Like the 12v batteries, they can have ok voltages, but insufficient cranking amps, right?

    This bad battery was condemned by a dealership, but that means nothing these days.
    Symptomatically, the P0A80 DTCs started at every couple of months and are now at every couple of errands to several per errand.
     
    #8 IwasBirchyFirst, Aug 27, 2025
  9. IwasBirchyFirst

    IwasBirchyFirst Junior Member

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    Cool resource, as an alternative to new packs of NiMH, but they are all sold out. (Too rich from my blood anyway)
    Also: "Do not mix Sodium-ion battery with NiMH battery."
     
    #9 IwasBirchyFirst, Aug 27, 2025
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  10. IwasBirchyFirst

    IwasBirchyFirst Junior Member

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    #10 IwasBirchyFirst, Aug 27, 2025
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  11. IwasBirchyFirst

    IwasBirchyFirst Junior Member

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    #11 IwasBirchyFirst, Aug 27, 2025
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  12. PriusTech

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    Just swap everything, the whole case. The ECU's are the same. The previous advice is good to pull the top cover and check for corrosion on ALL the electrical connections, including the ECU.
    13.5V is a little low but P0A80 is caused more by imbalance between blocks. 13.5V could be because it was shut off at a low state of charge. And yes cranking amps is important and volts can be misleading and doesn't tell you everything.
     
    #12 PriusTech, Aug 27, 2025
  13. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    How long ago did you get the first P0A80 code? It sounds like it was quite a while ago.

    So, now you are in desperation mode to get the car fixed. This will probably not go well, as I stated earlier today.
     
    #13 Brian1954, Aug 27, 2025
  14. IwasBirchyFirst

    IwasBirchyFirst Junior Member

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    Are you this negative and judgemental with everyone, or am I special? What's your intent here?
     
    #14 IwasBirchyFirst, Aug 27, 2025
  15. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    I am only negative and judgmental to the people who have ignored the trouble codes that the car has told them about long ago. Then they come to this forum after the car will not run, and they are in desperation mode to get it fixed. I will refrain from making any more posts in your three threads. Thanks for calling me out for my negativity. Good luck with getting the car fixed.
     
    #15 Brian1954, Aug 27, 2025
  16. douglasjre

    douglasjre Senior Member

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    You're the guy with the rattling engine on the other thread? If that engine is misfiring the computer won't allow the car to go into charge state. You'll deplete a battery pack. Start by pulling codes before you start throwing parts at it
     
    #16 douglasjre, Aug 28, 2025 at 12:35 AM
  17. IwasBirchyFirst

    IwasBirchyFirst Junior Member

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    I think that's someone else. Unless you're talking about the head gasket on a 2013 two years ago.
     
    #17 IwasBirchyFirst, Aug 28, 2025 at 1:06 AM
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  18. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    You said you were planning to switching the WHOLE assembly, not the blocks.
    You shouldn't mix ANY different types of batteries. They should all match.

    Buying an oem pack is a lot more cost. IF they will sell them to you.
    When I went to buy one, they weren't allowed to sell them to anyone any longer.
    Only to "certified" hybrid shops.

    Use the "ignore" function when you get tired of the know it all's and complainers.
    There are people on here that enjoy attacking others because they feel back about themselves
    and want others to feel bad also. Or they know EVERYTHING and are always right and you are
    always wrong unless you agree with them 100%....

     
    #18 ASRDogman, Aug 28, 2025 at 7:30 AM
  19. IwasBirchyFirst

    IwasBirchyFirst Junior Member

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    The battery pack swap went well. Two of us got the donor pack removed in about 2 hours, including prep.
    Next day, we removed the bad pack, installed the donor, and half-installed the bad one in the troubled car in about 3 hours, including prep and cleanup.
    We took the side panel off the cargo area, but did not remove the seat backs. The orange clip that the safety plug unlocks is pretty tricky to remove. I don't remember any of the videos talking about the hose on the driver's side, but that's pretty obvious. Harness clips were a mixture of easy to challenging, especially the one that ties two together.

    Now to tackle the donor car. Getting the engine to run, then probably buy some reconditioned blades and replace the worst four blades.
    If that all works, I can work on the headlight and ABS codes, as is convenient. And the bad tire sensor(s), some body work that is ready to install, maybe some front end, eg struts.
     
    #19 IwasBirchyFirst, Sep 3, 2025 at 12:05 AM
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