I replaced the head gasket on a Gen 3 2011 level 2 Prius with 240K on the engine because of antifreeze in the number 2 cylinder. When I tried to start it after the repair it ran like there was a misfire. I have read a number of threads where the owners had similar results and it seems that most of the problems resulted from the timing set improperly. When I set the timing I followed the instructions from the Toyota factory manual and verified all the colored links were in their proper location before I assembled the motor. Based on other stories that have read concerning head gasket replacement and setting the timing its hard to be 100% confident I did it exactly right. I should mention I pulled each spark plug and they are all firing. Other information: The engine does not run well enough to obtain a code from my OBD reader. I measured the piston height after disassembly and found no evidence of a bent rod. There is no evidence of new antifreeze leakage into any cylinder. All the spark plugs were replaced but I did not replace the coil packs Questions I have: What is the best method for checking the timing before I disassemble the engine again? What other things beside the timing being off can make the engine run like the timing is off? can any of the sensors do this? If I reset the timing I have read that there is a fixed number of rotations you can put the engine through where the colored links on the timing chain line up with the starting point marks again that verifies the timing is set properly. In reading about this there seems to be different numbers suggested for the number of rotations. What is the correct number ? Any other suggestions? thanks for your help
The most common problem is the timing chain off by one link usually caused by failure to rotate counterclockwise to release the tensioner. Sometimes the wrong top marks were used. Some have reported taking off the valve cover and verifying the cam marks with the timing mark on the harmonic balancer.
Depends on what you're counting. 70 turns of the crankshaft, or 35 turns of a camshaft, or 9 times seeing the same colored chain links go by, are all the correct number. Those won't necessarily be the same numbers for every type of engine. Somebody just has to count the sprocket teeth and chain links and do the math. These are the numbers you get for the Gen 3 Prius engine.
You don't have to rotate the engine 30 times, just put the crank pully at TDC, and check the cam scrockets. Do the timing marks line up where they should? If then don't, rotate the crank 360 degrees and check again. If the CAMS line up correctly, the timing chain is correct. It's not hard to setting the timing correctly. Toyota makes it very simple. They put the colors links on the chain! You only have to remove the valve cover. Very simple. You could keep rotating it, and hope you don't have to do it 30 times to get the links to match the sprockets, if you have nothing else to do.... Or if would give you peace of mind... If it's not running well enough, you SHOULD be getting codes. Are you 100% certain you have everything connected correctly?? Are you SURE you put the PCV valve hose on???? It is easy to miss that. You could just have a huge vacuum leak.
I removed the valve cover and had to rotate the pulley a number of times to get the upper orange chain links to line up properly with their marks on the cam shaft sprockets then confirmed the piston was at TDC and the mark on the harmonic balancer was aligned with the 0 mark on the block. Based on this it appears the timing chain is on correctly. I guess the next step would be to recheck for a bent rod and if ok look for a vacuum leak. thanks
It's good everything lined up correctly. You can use a dowel in the spark plug hole to measure each piston at TDC, all for should be the same. If not, a rod is bent. The pcv hose is a common thing to miss or forget to attach. And fairly easy to correct.
After rechecking everything again I found 2 roller followers had fallen off on the engine front side of cylinder 3. After doing more research I found a video on tube from Pine Hollow diagnostics where the mechanic was asked to look at a Prius that the owner replaced the head gasket and the car ran poorly after. The problem was 2 of the roller followers on cylinder #3 falling off. The mechanic loosened up the cams and put the rollers back, retorque the cam holders, and the car was fixed. I loosed up the cams, put the rollers back on, retorqued to factory specs and the rollers are still loose enough to pull out. I'm thinking they will tighten up if I run the oil pump? or maybe turn the motor over by hand? any thoughts on this?
Can you move the valves? Press they down,and the springs pulls them back up? Are the springs at the same level as the others? Minus the ones the cam is pushing down. They SHOULD be tight...
1NZ engine (gen 1, gen 2, Prius c) works that way. 35 different sizes of bucket for intake and 35 for exhaust. Valve adjustment is not a DIY-friendly job for that engine (though easy enough at the factory with all 70 bucket sizes right at hand). 2ZR engine (gen 3, v, gen 4) has hydraulic lash adjusters, so valve adjustment isn't a job at all. In the engine in question here, are all the HLAs present and accounted for? There is a procedure for testing them shown in the repair manual.
Hello and thanks for the responses The valves in question are cylinder #4 valves not cylinder #3 as I stated previously. Sorry about that but I don't think it matters. I measured the spring length with a micrometer of the intake valves in question and they are 4mm shorter than a fully extended intake valve. This is without the rollers in place as they are not contact the valves with the cam in its present location anyway. I assume the only conclusion I can make id the valves are stuck. Compared to each other they are about the same length which I thought was odd that they both stuck at the same time. The question would be is it worth trying free them?. I thought I could try putting the rollers back in place and turning the motor over by hand to see if I can free them, unless someone has another suggestion?. I did try to push on them by hand but no luck. One other thing I should mention is that the machine shop that milled the head also replaced the valve seats. If they were not installed correctly would this make them stick? thanks
It's doubtful they replaced the seats. They "may" have lapped them in, if any were leaking. Since the timing was off, it is possible that the valve got bent. A bore scope would be handy so you can look and see if piston is also damaged. You can make sure the piston is lowered for that cylinder, then tap the top of the valve with a hammer and see if it moves, and comes back into place. Have you tried pressing on the other valve so see if they move? If you can move them by hand, you should be move the two in question.
Yes, my mistake they replaced the seals. As for as the timing I mentioned in an earlier post was correct so if the valves are bent I'm not sure how that would have happened. I did rotate the engine by hand this morning with out a problem and the springs on cylinder 4 did compress but return to the same place which is about 4mm short of where they should be. I also tried to gently pry up on the valves but no luck moving them. I was thinking about pulling the intake manifold to inspect the valves but I'm not sure there is any value to doing this? My only option may be to pull the head again but I'm not sure if I want to do this as it's a LOT of work. We purchased a new Rav4 plugin to replace it so maybe it's time to retire the Prius. It did give us 243000 of service without any issues.
Even if you don't need the car after buying a new one, doing nothing with the gen3 is essentially losing any resale value. At least $5k, maybe more. There a couple of sets on marks on the sprockets and some have set the chain to the wrong marks. If there was a clearance problem it might not be there after bending a couple valves. Assuming that is not the issue, some shops will pressurize the cylinder with air and remove the valve springs to verify free movement. I think I would take an articulating borescope and inspect the valves and pistons. Odds are good they are damaged so the real issue is resale value.
If you pull the intake manifold, which isn't too difficult, you can look inside the cylinder and see if they are bent. Perhaps I was thinking of another thread. It was my understanding you ran the engine with the timing off. Before pulling the head, a LOT of work, yes.... remove the intake manifold and look inside and see why the valves are not returning all the way. You could pass on the issue to someone else, but you should be decent enough to tell them what is happening instead of deceiving them.