Rear shock bushing stuck

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by zak.kapoor, Oct 25, 2025 at 12:44 PM.

  1. zak.kapoor

    zak.kapoor Junior Member

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    I am in the process of replacing the rear shocks (which are aftermarket) on my 2008 Prius. The shock came out easily but the bushing is stuck.

    I searched the web and the general recommendation is using heat. I am not comfortable with that.

    Is there a better way of removing the bushings? Can I use a gear puller from Harbor Freight or something similar?

    Thanks.
     

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    #1 zak.kapoor, Oct 25, 2025 at 12:44 PM
  2. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    So, inside the rubber is a steel sleeve that's rusted (seized) to the mounting stud.

    Me, I would cut away the rubber (very annoying but necessary).

    Then I would use heat, or an impact chisel to loosen the sleeve. Maybe a hammer and chisel, but that's very difficult to do when the car is on jackstands.

    You can try to rotate the sleeve with a pipe wrench, but you absolutely do not want to break the stud

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    #2 mr_guy_mann, Oct 25, 2025 at 8:57 PM
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  3. zak.kapoor

    zak.kapoor Junior Member

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    Thanks.

    I tried a lot of WD40 and a pipe wrench. No luck.

    I can use the cutting wheel to cutoff the rubber.

    I am planning to buy and use a MAPP gas torch to heat the outer sleeve only and then hammer it loose while it is hot. I will wipe of the WD40 thoroughly and use gloves and glasses. Also I will keep the area clean. Anything else I need to be looking out for? I have never used a gas torch before.

    For the new shock I am thinking of using a touch of anti-seize in the bushing to avoid the binding. Is this a bad idea?
     
    #3 zak.kapoor, Oct 26, 2025 at 11:15 AM
  4. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    Cut-off wheel and torch will burn the rubber (and it will stink - oh well). Watch where you aim the torch, don't want to burn the brake hose or ABS sensor wiring.
    Again, it's tough to swing a hammer when you're "on the ground", so take care not to ding the threads on the stud.

    Heat on the sleeve, some hammer taps, and then the pipe wrench might do it.

    I always use some anti-seize on parts like the stud for the shock (or a bolt going through a control arm bushing) - just not on the threads. It lubricates too well and can result in the fastener being over-torqued.

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    #4 mr_guy_mann, Oct 26, 2025 at 9:04 PM
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