Prime 12v battery dead

AI Overview:



"Inflammable" means the same as "flammable"—it describes something that can be easily set on fire. Despite the prefix "in-" sometimes meaning "not" (like in "invisible"), in this case, it comes from the Latin "inflammare," which means "to set on fire" or "to put into flames"

 

Since we need more confusion here is the Amazone description

"NOCO GENIUS2: 2A 6V/12V Smart Battery Charger – Automatic Maintainer, Trickle Charger & Desulfator with Overcharge Protection & Temperature Compensation – for Lead-Acid & Lithium Batteries"

 

Well maintainers are trickle chargers. They just have the means to not overcharge a full battery.

 

Exactly. Search engine optimizer - use the terms someone is likely to use based on their age and expertise.

These days any low cost charger has logic to prevent overcharging.

Harbor Freight's under $10 charger is safe and often sells for less than $5.



Only grandpa's rusted tool collection may have an unregulated charger - which in most cases won't impact an agm battery but is not great for vehicle ecus.

The real killer is high parasitic draws allowing a full discharge of the 12v battery, often caused by aftermarket additions. Sometimes car manufacturers have code bugs causing high draws but even those are resolved if the owner gets the update.

 

It can say whatever it wants in the description, but Noco Genius is not a dumb trickle charger, which charges the battery indefinitely with a small current. It will stop charging altogether when it thinks the battery is fully charged. It will not restart charging until the battery SOC drops below a certain level (in about three days with Gen 4/Gen 5 Prius). The point was that you don’t want a dumb trickle charger that is always charging.

 

Right, Amazon is the ultimate source of correct descriptions.

 

"Trickle charger" is just what's most familiar to most buyers. The accuracy of the description is not a priority to whoever writes it.

 

I had a cheap battery maintainer in my Gen 3 Prius. It cost me $5 on clearance.
It worked just fine for when my car was parked for more than a week. It had a constant 50 mA drain, which was good for about 9 days before the car wouldn't start.
The reason I went with a NOCO on my Gen 5 was because I didn't have to open the hood to turn it on when I plugged it in.

 

Since this has gone far afield from OP’s question, I’ll add my 2 cents:

I learned the difference (in Britain) between flammable/inflammable the hard way in the early 1980’s (before my company’s use of even MS Word 1.0 w/o spell-check). Did a study on a riser tensioner/motion compensator system explosion that occurred on a rig we were looking at contracting. These hydraulic systems use air-over-oil accumulators. In this incident, the hydraulic oil being used was combustible. There are also aqueous-based fluids with added lubricants that aren’t combustible. At the time, being young, American, and not understanding the real meaning of flammable/inflammable, in my typed-up report I repeatedly referenced the need for using a proper ‘inflammable’ hydraulic fluid. Luckily another English engineer proof-read it and told me “uhh, you’re saying silly stuff”. Looked it up, got embarrassed, lots of white-out later fixed it.

From a U.K. HSE source:

Inflammable: While the word may imply a non-flammable substance, it is a common misconception. Where a flammable object can be set fire to, requiring a source of ignition, an inflammable substance can catch fire all by itself and includes unstable chemicals like some types of compressed gas and explosive hazards. Due to its extreme volatility, it’s vital that inflammable substances are handled and stored correctly. While they may appear the same, the difference between flammable and inflammable substances is crucial to understand. Flammable substances can be set fire to (with a source of ignition), while inflammable can catch fire by themselves (without needing a source of ignition).