Pedal comander vs Pedal monster

It's already in my previous posts.

 

Please tell me the post numbers, because I can not find the posts that you are referring to. For example, this is post #62. I will read those posts again if you tell me which ones.

What is the difference in the output of the box to the input of the ECU versus from the gas pedal sensor to the ECU? Hint, they are both electrical signals. So, what is different about the electrical output of the box versus the sensor on the gas pedal? The ECU uses that input (no matter where the signal is coming from) to request power from the hybrid system drive. Maybe I will learn something new today after you explain it to me.

I eagerly wait for your response.

 

This is like an Atheist explaining science to a Believer.
You can only say so much...
If the faith in a gizmodic from 10 years ago, or a book from 2000 years ago, is strong,,,,
Let it be. They are happy with their 'beliefs' no mater how unproveable.
Do you know the definition of 'faith' is?

 

There may be similarities, but the risk in framing it that way lies in making it seem more complicated than it is. Atheists and Believers are sometimes arguing over fairly recondite stuff.

The only problem here is there are just too darn many members around who already know how the accelerator pedal works ...



... and Iron Man Prius keeps wanting to "explain" to them "why" they're wrong, when they're not.

 

Again, take your petty arguments to the manufacturers of these products and tell THEM they are wrong. I already know they work as intendid, so for the record of "lurkers" looking for more information on these products..they WORK. Unless you want to take the advice of know-nothing washed up (and self proclaimed) engineers who have never used said products but are making bold claims they don't work.

 

Maybe only one in ten did ! (sorry, old joke. No pun intended.....)
And you got lucky and you got the magical one in ten that "made more power at a given RPM", as you said before...

But as you know, RPM is only one measurement of what an engine is doing. What about throttle position? Electric assist? Timing and air fuel has to remain in a narrow spec for emission reasons.

Hey! Tonight's the night, Little Buddy!! Do you also believe in Santa?
He'll leave you a financial present if you manage to sell any of these Gizmodics!
Us Non-Believers ain't buying it..... Too much,, you know,,, science....

 

Again, take your arguments for a product you have never used tot he manufacturer if you think it doesn't work.


Lurkers, it works. Board Boomers don't even know what they don't know about this subject.

 

It does not work.
It never has.
Never will.
All it does is change the stupid Go Pedal Position Curve. Exactly like the stupid buttons on the dash.

You are totally fooling yourself that it makes more 'Power or Efficiency' or whatever claims are being made by you or the makers.
You prove me wrong.

Look, Oh Shiller for the Gizmodic company,

You have your right foot commanding a response from the car to accelerate, correct?
You have a built in G-Meter feeling how much the car is accelerating, correct?
(Mine is located just aft of my Belly Button !)
No matter what goofy 'Mode' you have selected in the car, or what Gizmodic you bought and installed between the Go Pedal and the ECM,
You still make a request for acceleration according to your body's G-Meter.
And 'Full Go Pedal' always equals 'Full Available Power', regardless, correct? That is a constant.
So changing the curve is only fooling you, good sir.

 

Again, take your arguments for a product you have never used to the manufacturer if you think it doesn't work.


Lurkers, it works. I have Independent dynojet testing results, if you're changing WHEN the power comes on based on throttle position and RPM you are manipulating actual results of TQ and HP. You'd have to have knowledge of running vehicles on Dynamometers and reading graphs to understand ICE's make different numbers at different RPM and throttle position, gearing, etc...by bringing on the power by manipulating throttle voltage input/output (even if only 100 engine horsepower) earlier, the traction horsepower/torque in combo with the healthy HV battery you will get different results on the graph.Again, no one is claiming 20, 50, 100 hp more that's ridiculous. No, more like 7-10 tq at best..in a Prius I will take it. You Board Boomers don't even know what you don't know about this subject.

 

Dyno testing is performed at WOT. How does this device change that?

 

Could you please provide the results of the testing so that we can see the data? The testing should be with and without the box installed. I am very interested in viewing the data.

 

Dyno testing can read output at any throttle position as long as the test is going. Race car and high performance high HP testing is indeed done at WOT. When you shorten and intensify the power band at a lower throttle where the voltage changes the output you can study different wheel hp and tq where you want. The power unit will give 100% at 1/4 throttle on the higher settings that you won't feel on regular "PWR" mode anywhere in the throttle/acceleration spectrum, that's the whole point of it...to give you more power at different RPM and throttle input settings. When you ask the computer to do what it normally might do at WOT going 85mph, down at 1300rpm off idle going 5 mph the graph is going to change. It also matters what kind of dyno, as in a load dyno or inertia dyno will change your readings as well. Typically you will notice slight bumps in power when the vehicle is under more of a load.

 

In your post, you mention throttle position many times. Throttle is an old term that goes back to the time when the gas pedal was connected to the carburetor by a mechanical cable. Most (if not all) new gas-powered cars now have electronic fuel injection and are controlled by multiple ECUs and many sensors using electrical signals. When you write about throttle position in your post, I think you mean pedal position. Correct me if I am wrong.

The pedal position sensor is sending an electrical signal to the ECU based on the position of the pedal from 0 to 100% of travel. At 0% pedal position, you are requesting 0% power from the hybrid drive system (ICE and electric drive motors). At 100% pedal position, you are requesting 100% power from the hybrid drive system. Assume the curve between 0 and 100% pedal position is a straight line. So, at 25% pedal position, you are requesting 25% power. At 50% pedal position, you are requesting 50% power. At 75% pedal position, you are requesting 75% power. Etc.

In your post, you wrote, "The power unit will give 100% at 1/4 throttle on the higher settings ....". I interpret that to mean that the intermediate box that you installed has a very aggressive (steep) curve selected. Assuming that curve is a linear line of 0 to 25% pedal position corresponds with 0 to 100% request for power. So, at 6.25% pedal position, you are requesting for 25% power. At 12.5% pedal position, you are requesting for 50% power. At 18.75% pedal position, you are requesting for 75% power. Am I interpreting what you wrote correctly? If so, at pedal positions more than 25%, you will get no more response from the pedal because you have already requested 100% power at the 25% pedal position.

So, the intermediate box is just changing the curve for the pedal position, which I wrote about multiple times in my previous posts.

I also wrote that the "box" can not do anything different than what your foot can do on the pedal. Without the "box", you just need to push the pedal 4 times as far for the same request for power.

Sure, the car seems more responsive to the pedal when the "box" is installed, and it is more fun to drive. If you are happy with that, then it was worth the $200 that you paid for the device to get 100% power at 25% of pedal travel. For me, if I want 100% power from the car, I will just push the pedal to 100% travel, and I have that $200 in my pocket to spend on something else.

 

Good for you.

 

Do you have any response to the rest of my post #73? Did I interpret what you wrote correctly?

Also, did you see my post #71?

 

For anyone interested in seeing the curves for Power, Normal, and ECO modes for the Gen 3 Prius, see below. The Gen 4 Prius should be very similar.
vvv Gen 3 illustration vvv

 

I don't care what you have to say in fact, so no. You are entitled to whatever you think it does or doesn't do. Your opinion means nothing to me.