What other 95k maintenance when I clean EGR?

Discussion in 'Prius v Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by gafortiby, Dec 31, 2025.

  1. gafortiby

    gafortiby Member

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    On this last day of 2025, my 2012 Prius V is at 95k and still on factory original:
    1. inverter coolant (tested full alkaline with test strip, color/smell is like new)
    2. engine coolant (color/smell is like new)
    3. front brake pads (still many mm left)
    4. rear brake pads (only about 4mm left)
    5. brake fluid (tested zero moisture with test strip, color/smell is like new)
    6. spark plugs
    7. eCVT fluid
    8. EGR components never cleaned
    9. PCV components never cleaned
    I have replaced engine oil, oil filter, engine air filter and cabin air filter every 5000 miles, and I put STP injector cleaner to my fuel tank at oil changes.

    I plan to do a full EGR clean in the next few weeks. So while I have things taken apart, should I just replace everything at once? I know the plugs can last longer, but they will be easier to reach while I have everything taken apart. My fluids test okay, but they are 13 years old so might as well replace them all? I'll do the eCVT fluid separately since I don't think that is connected to anything else.

    And what other non-standard maintenance items should I do while I'm in there? For example, the manual doesn't say I should clean EGR but I'm going to do that anyway.

    I also need to replace my old tires and leaky struts, but I will pay a shop to do that in the spring. I might pay them to replace the rear brake pads at the same time.
     
    #1 gafortiby, Dec 31, 2025
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2025
  2. Kenny94945

    Kenny94945 Active Member

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    New fluids are always good.
    The spark plugs, you may be right, while everything is apart, you have eased the job.
    I can say that a new transmission fluid will be felt as a seat-of-the-pants improvement.
    FWIW :)
     
    #2 Kenny94945, Jan 1, 2026
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  3. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i would follow the maintenance manuals time, not miles, recommendations
     
    #3 bisco, Jan 1, 2026
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  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk MMX GEN III

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    Engine coolant change is very opportune to do in conjunction with the EGR clean, skirts the concerns about spillage.

    Spark plug change is not just easier with things "taken apart", it's impossible otherwise, specifically, the wipers, their linkage and motor, and the underlying metal cowl, must all come out to access the plugs. It's more-or-less mandatory for EGR clean as well.

    Part of the EGR cleaning is the intake manifold, which has EGR passages. Accordingly, that'd be an opportune to replace the PCV valve, if you're so inclined (it's right behind the intake manifold). New ones come with the threads coated with a sealant IIRC correctly. If you elect to just remove/clean/reinstall the PCV valve, I'd recommend to use and oil-tolerant, non-permanent thread lock on the threads. Also, only use the Toyota spec pcv filter, avoid this'll-do options, they'll likely have different performance specs.

    Apart from the above, I would not be "looking for other stuff to do", you'll have your hands full.

    I'd second @bisco, some of the aforementioned maintenance items are not due by miles, but are overdue by months.
     
    #4 Mendel Leisk, Jan 1, 2026
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  5. gafortiby

    gafortiby Member

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    Doing too much at once increases the risk of a mistake cascade, but I also want to save time. So I'll do in these two phases.

    Based on what I've read here and seen on CarCareNut... I don't think I need tech stream for any of this, right?

    Phase 1.
    1. Order all the parts.
    2. drain engine coolant, remove cowl & stuff.
    3. clean the area so that dust doesn't fall into the engine as I remove things.
    4. remove intake manifold & EGR components.
    5. replace spark plugs
      1. 90919-01275
      2. anti-sieze debate?
    6. should I replace ignition coils too? Coils are not a wear item in a Prius as far as I know, and also $150 each?
    7. clean EGR related components
      1. 25627-37010 Exhaust Gas Regulation Valve Gasket
      2. 25634-37030 Exhaust Gas Regulation Pipe Gasket
      3. 25634-37030 Exhaust Gas Regulation Pipe Gasket
      4. 25685-37010 Exhaust Gas Regulation Cooler Gasket
    8. clean intake manifold
      1. 17177-0T020 Intake Manifold To Head Gasket
      2. 22271-37010 Throttle Body Gasket
    9. replace PCV valve
      1. 12204-37010 Ventilation Valve Sub-Assembly
      2. maybe thread lock?
    10. reassemble all things
    11. fill coolant
      1. 00272-SLLC2 Genuine Toyota Super Long Life Coolant (_qt?)
    Reassemble, confirm everything is working, do a test drive, top off coolant if needed.

    Phase 2.
    1. Drain-fill inverter coolant with Toyota OEM coolant (_qt?)
    2. Drain-fill transfer case with 00289-ATFWS World Standard Automatic Transmission Fluid (3.5qt). Both drain and filler plugs will need new gasket?
    Did I get the right 2026 parts? What am I missing?
     
    #5 gafortiby, Jan 1, 2026
  6. gafortiby

    gafortiby Member

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    Locally, the Toyota dealer is much more reasonable than the Honda dealer!
    When I priced out a similar job for my Honda Civic:
    • OEM PCV valve at Honda dealer = $70
    • OEM PCV valve at Toyota dealer = $8.46
    • OEM (Denso/NGK) Iridium spark plugs at Honda dealer = $70 each
    • OEM (Denso) Iridium spark plugs at Toyota dealer = $20 each
    I forgot I will also have Phase 3
    • Replace brake fluid, the non-techstream method. I have a pressure bleeder so that should work as long as I don't open the driver's door.
    • Plan to use Valvoline synthetic DOT 3
    • will get some 31478-30010 Bleeder Plug Cap in case I lose one. Rather have some spares than get frustrated looking for the one I dropped. I'm sure I will. :D
     
    #6 gafortiby, Jan 1, 2026
  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk MMX GEN III

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    If you’re in invalid mode opening a door opening will not be a problem. Pressure bleeder is not needed either. See brake fluid change link in my signature. (On a phone turn it landscape to see signatures)

    I’d also hold off on purchasing all the gaskets in the EGR circuit: the ones at the actual EGR components are metal, and very durable. Any gaskets at the intake manifold are pliable though, more worthwhile to replace.
     
    #7 Mendel Leisk, Jan 7, 2026 at 9:43 PM
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