Good spot. The exact wording in mine is "In the following cases, charging the hybrid battery (traction battery) via the solar charging system is not performed. [...] The hybrid battery (traction battery) is completely discharged", which could mean just zero EV or significantly lower. Sounds to me like this could be the root cause, given the report that no miles have been added at all for months. @maiki - have you been at zero range for all those months? Scanning the thread, just noticed this post from @ATalkingRock , also complaining of no range increase, who then came back with Possibly the same thing - not charging because empty battery? Not charging when empty is extremely counter-intuitive - I can see this being the cause of a lot of user confusion. But it makes sense for two reasons: Not having to cope with either low or high extremes of the battery simplifies the work of the solar charging system, so it's a reasonable design shortcut for an auxiliary charge function. It's a fail safe in case the solar system ends up not generating enough power and ends up being a net drain. There must be a battery threshold below which the solar system won't activate the HV system to ensure it can't accidentally let the charge drift too low.
When he posts his Wh screen for solar, this discussion will end. If he did that in his original post, we would never have had this discussion.
Absolutely true. I agree. It's stated exactly the same in the OP's 2025 model year owner's manual too. I chose to interpret an Owner's Manual meaning of "completely discharged" to mean zero EV miles. Only to offer reasons that are in the manual that might not be as obvious like the one about no luggage on the roof and avoid those two words they used there. It might be wrong but I did give it thought before stating it as zero EV miles only because my logic went to seeing 0% SOC as truly "completely discharged" and to me that's a catastrophic failure ... the kind Toyota would have to resolve. I always appreciate your thoughtful comments here ... thanks.
I'm sure it doesn't mean literally 0% SoC, but it could mean bottom of the battery gauge, at the bottom of the HV range. But like you I'm going to guess it probably is the EV/HV threshold.
The EV range on the guess-o-meter means zero, pun-intended. It will vary if you turn the A/C on or off or press the accelerator hard etc. It is not a direct indicator of kWh stored in the battery. You guys are wasting your time on a wild-goose chase. Let the OP post his solar display, and then we'll respond. Till then, let's take a break.
That's reassuring, though. Means it's a better indicator of kWh stored in the battery than it would be if it didn't vary with how many kWh/mile you're currently drawing.
Yes, but that is not what we are discussing. We are discussing if the OP is getting solar power or not. He thinks there is a malfunction, and he is getting zero solar power. Once again, let the OP post his solar display showing the solar energy generated in Wh.
I've long had an Ancel BM300 Pro monitoring my 12-volt battery so to satisfy your interest in knowing I'll share this chart of a short trip I made yesterday to a sunny location. '24 Prime w Solar and original lead-acid battery (18-months old) You'll see resting at 12.24v (65% SoC) well before trip. Driving to and from the destination (~24 min each way) the battery was receiving 14.28v (100% SoC). And between those two "towers" of driving you'll see the active solar assist going on for the 52 minutes or so I had the car off and in the sun which provided 12.55v-12.61v (>90% SoC). And finally after returning back to my garage and giving ample time to rest the battery settled into a 12.43v (>80% SoC).
I don’t understand why it is so low, though. 12.55 V is below the open-circuit voltage of a fully charged flooded cell (12.64 V) and well below that of an AGM cell (12.89 V).
