Kinda an odd problem about my 12V battery-cables

Don't know about workarounds this is the one that plugs into the black plastic the white plug that goes into the black plastic on positive block ? I should be able to send you that whole piece . Just wrecked a great car a few weeks ago everything's pristine in it . If your wire is good what I send ya you can just pop insert out of white plug insert yours plug in !

 

can you post a pic of where it plugs in?

 

that's a tough one. can you strip it back and tuck it into the positive cable clamp?

 

if that doesn't work, a hardware store/auto parts/electronics/internet should have something to extend the cable.
or salvage yard where you could cut the cable on a wreck and attach it to yours.
this cold is brutal, all the best!

 

Next time disconnect the negative cable or better yet buy a jump box and forhet about disconnecting the battery.

 

He needs to bring the 12 V inside to prevent it from freezing in the current polar conditions at his locale. A jump box aint gonna fix that.

 

A charged battery won't freeze until -76f. His solution screwed up his harness.

 

Usually, he 'canonical' repair when a wire breaks out of a connector like that starts with looking that connector up in the wiring diagram, as you see in this example and this one (which are looking up a different connector, of course).

That gives you the Toyota part numbers of: the plastic housing, a 'repair wire' that already ends in the right metal terminal, and a crimp sleeve of the proper size to attach the repair wire to the end of your existing wire. The diagram will also have a picture showing how to release the old broken-off terminal out of the plastic housing, so you can clip the new one in. (So, the part number of the plastic housing itself you don't usually need, you just reuse the one you've got. Sometimes people do break the plastic housings, though.)

It's possible, though, that Toyota doesn't list a repair wire or crimp sleeve for this particular connection (I haven't tried looking it up just now, but I'm having some déjà vu about it), because it is a thicker wire than they expect you to be equipped to repair.

I would then head for a salvage yard to find a car that still has that wire so I could hack off the last foot or so, and then I'd go straight to my neighborhood independent auto electrical shop. They do have the big-@ss crimp tools right there to splice that back on the existing wire, and they'd have it done in a couple minutes and not charge me much.

That's a pretty thick sturdy copper wire. But I've seen at least one other thread here where it got weakened by corrosion and broke off there. I'm guessing if the OP broke it off by unplugging and replugging, it might have been about to cause some trouble anyway.

That said, you do want to be careful not to put a lot of repeated bending on the copper right where it goes into the terminal. When unplugging/replugging, it's better to spread the flexing over as great a length of wire as you can. Might be tricky with that one, as there might be a harness clip or tape immobilizing that wire not very far back from that connector.

 

That cable can carry tens of amps routinely and is fused for over a hundred. "Jam together and tape" is no kind of splice method for that; if it worked for any time at all, it would be a fire waiting to happen.

 

Keep it charged and it won't freeze. That is what everybody else does in severe cold.

 

A simple crimp sleeve is fast and easy