Head Gasket Replacement Shop Recommendations- San Francisco Bay Area

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by davekro, Feb 4, 2026 at 4:26 AM.

  1. davekro

    davekro Active Member

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    [Edit] Well, crud, after just taking the time to type in all the blah, blah, blah additional diagnostic bits and pieces below that I have gathered... I read your post #18. I think I need to step away from the monitors and get the car to Gasket Masters for an assessment...]

    Since my wife drives it, I really have no idea how long it took to loose a 1/2 gal. of coolant. I may have stated before the last oil change I did, but I think that I would have noticed lowered coolant in the reservoir. So it may have lost coolant over these last 5 months (≈5600 miles). But my wife first reported the engine shake one week ago 1/28. At that time I added the half gal. of coolant. Since the few 6-mile round trips the car has been used for, the coolant level has not dropped from the full mark at all. Not sure what that info means.

    As the engine cools overnight, especially with our current overnight temps between 40ºF to 48º-ish, doesn't the coolant contract as the engine temp matches ambient temp, then essentially be close to atmospheric pressure by morning normally? Two nights ago, I was doing MY first drives in the car to test 'when' and for how long the shaking happened. When the Autel Live scanning showed 195º, thinking that was abnormal (glad to know it is not), I pulled over to look at the coolant level. It was exactly at the Full mark that I had filled it to the week prior. I decided to open the reservoir cap, and a big woosh of pressure was released. No coolant/ liquid came out at all. But the coolant level in the reservoir, strictly from releasing the pressure by removing the cap, was then ≈ 1/2" 'above' the Full mark it had been just before removing the cap.
    One data point from the Autel Live drive that I forgot to report was the 'Electric Water Pump Speed'. Autel says Target speed is 2450 rpm. When Coolant temp read 187ºF, 'Elect. W/P Speed was 3125 rpm. When Coolant temp read 195ºF, 'Elect. W/P Speed ranged between 3400-3500 rpm.
    Back to last week, 1/28, when my wife experienced the knock/shudder, she told me she checked the web that indicated to her it was likely low coolant. That day, I added a half gallon of coolant. I did a scan and it showed P0117 'Engine Coolant Temp Circuit Input Low' (maybe coolant below sensor level) and P148F 'Engine Coolant Pump Over Revolution' (maybe impeller cavitating due to low coolant). After adding the coolant, I cleared those codes and they have not returned.

    I still feel drawn to pulling the wipers and cowling, pull the plugs and check Cyl. 1 with a borescope. But, I do NOT have the experience and knowledge to make a complete diagnosis, so your wisdom here is settling in to this old brain to this time, 'let a trusted shop do it'. ;o)

    What does "may not choose to use a JDM based on a comment in one of their videos" mean?
    I'd be very curious to see the video you refer to.
    Thanks again RJ!
     
    #21 davekro, Feb 8, 2026 at 2:49 AM
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2026 at 5:42 AM
  2. davekro

    davekro Active Member

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    rjparker, Thank you very much for posting these vidoeos, especially the Car Care Nut one.
    After watching the first video, seeing the details he describes, I now clearly see your point that I should just take it to Gasket Masters, have them diagnose the issues and listen to their recommendations and options. At 19:30 in the Car Care Nut video, he lays out how to frame the decision to repair vs. cut your losses and buy a newer version of the car you love(d), so the whole car is newer, not just the engine.

     
  3. davekro

    davekro Active Member

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    Thanks for the comments. I am only 2 years your junior, but still working at my office coffee service business. Not full time, but too much time. ;o) My brain is slower in recent years, so I pretty much say it would take me 5 times as long doing the actual work... But I have to add in another 50% time for all the distractions to other tasks, not to mention my OCD "I need to make all these parts as clean as new, and other unnecessary, 'let's make it perfect' baloney. LOL Still not sure how to proceed, but I think a good first step is to let Gasket Masters do a genuine diagnosis, and go from there. Between you and me... I have had cases where I've thrown more parts at a car than needed. ;o)
     
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  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk MMX GEN III

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    I concur. Any time I take on something new there tends to be a few surprises as I get into it. Occasionally I’m defeated, but I just move on. More often than not I get it done though. Prep, plan, try a few prelim forays if practical.
     
  5. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    The aluminum head and cylinder contract allowing a possible very slight gasket leak to drip into the cylinder.

    It is also possible you have a very big leak.

    There is no level sensor. It basically means the sensor is reading low either from a wiring or thermistor failure or from air in the system. The car has two temperature sensors (thermistors).

    The fact you had water pump codes happen could mean the water pump is possibly a problem. It could also mean you were a half gallon low of coolant and the water pump was seeing air pockets.

    I don't remember which video but there was one. Most likely they were using JDMs until one failed on them under warranty and they had to redo it.

    JDM used in Japan engines can be as new as a 2021. I would do a JDM over a hg job especially on an oil burner. It helps if your mechanic can cherry pick the engine at a local JDM distributor rather than having one shipped in..

    Often as shops prosper, they want the sure solution even if it is three times the cost. Kind of the dealer mindset "install a quality rebuilt engine that did not overheat first." Which is what they do if the engine blows under a new car warranty and you are two years into a five year note. The dealer or similar pro shop gen3 rebuild will be $8k or more.

    Gasketmasters also had a video where they recommended preemptive head gasket changes before any problem occurs. Good idea on non-oil burners but unlikely to be followed by most owners of a 15 year old Prius who are convinced their car has been maintained well and head gasket or water pump problems happen to delivery drivers who neglect their Prius purchased at 175k miles.

    There are many factors, problems and solutions for Gen3 problems. If I lived in the expensive Bay Area I would get a problem car to their original Manteca location asap. If you lived in Central Texas I eould direct you to a JDM shop that has successfully swapped many hundreds of Gen3 engines and resolved every Prius issue out there.
     
    #25 rjparker, Feb 8, 2026 at 12:04 PM
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2026 at 12:31 PM