broken thermostat bolt

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Main Forum' started by mhdriver, Jan 14, 2026.

  1. mhdriver

    mhdriver Member

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    Welded on a nut and it broke off flush with the aluminum. After an eternity of missteps, I got an insert installed. It's definitely able to handle torque and I've got it in with Red Locktite. It's not perfectly centered, have dremeled the thermostat housing a bit to make it work. That was a terrible spot for a broken bolt, but going to install the thermostat tomorrow, using a thin bead of grey Permatex around the perimeter. Only able to do this job by boroscope and fishing 3 flexible drill extensions through the engine, put little pieces of pvc pipe around anything that turned. It's easy to goober up your wiring with the drill extenions if you aren't careful.

    Should be back on the road by Wednesday :).
     
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  2. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    That's great! I really hope it works for you! Thanks for the update.

     
  3. mhdriver

    mhdriver Member

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    Thanks. I did speak to a well known hybrid shop about a head gasket and the guy straight up told me "We've never seen a bad Prius thermostat". I'm feeling like an idiot for ever touching it. On the bright side, it was a great education. I did price an engine swap in Orlando, pretty darn reasonable for a JDM, just $2000 plus tax. First sign of head gasket issues, that's what I'm going to do.
     
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  4. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    They have been known to go bad. But it's rare. And really doesn't hurt to replace them when
    they have a lot of miles on them. Usually, it's an easy replacement, but life happens.

    No one can really be certain if they are getting a real jdm engine. And how do you prove it have 50,000 miles
    or less on them? Either way, you are getting a used engine, they might have been sitting for months or years...

    You could start making plans and getting the parts together to replace the head gasket, before it fails......
    A LOT less work, and cost...

     
  5. mhdriver

    mhdriver Member

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    That would make sense for you, but that is *way* over my head! I'd rather pay you to do it :).
     
  6. douglasjre

    douglasjre Senior Member

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    In the future don't use red loctite. Blue is the most u will use and it want needed there anyway
     
  7. mhdriver

    mhdriver Member

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    I used Red Locktite on the insert. I'm never taking that out under any circumstance that I can imagine,.
     
  8. mhdriver

    mhdriver Member

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    This shows the condition of many of the 6mm bolts on this car. Wondering if the used lower quality metal in some of these bolts. This is not a big deal since I’m putting in a new intake manifold. 6 mm is extremely difficult to extract because it’s so thin. But at least I can get at it with the part off the car. I’m replacing most on my bolts that I remove, especially the ones with any rust or difficult removal. Got the job now down to just EGR and EGR cooler replacement.
     
  9. mhdriver

    mhdriver Member

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    such is the state of things. All of the bolts on my plastic skid place were either already broken or they snapped when I tried to unscrew them. Putting that back on with stainless steel zip ties. Interesting to me that the car shows no body rust. Before I take anything off, I need I good reason to do it.
     
  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk MMX GEN III

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    MAP sensor hold-down bolt, ugh. Did you say this car spent most of its life in northern, salted road areas?
     
  11. mhdriver

    mhdriver Member

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    Yep. 7 years in Michigan. I do think Toyota used cheaper bolts. I don't think these are 10.9 or 12.9 grade bolts. More like 8.8 grade. I wonder how much that saved on the cost of constructing this car? $10? But I could be wrong.