Question: What is the process used to decide between OEM / Aftermarket? I was advised that the right rear bearing is noisy and on its way it / needs to be replaced. Given that the vehicle has 93K miles, does it make sense to replace both rear bearings? IMHO, Quality has to be first consideration, however, sometimes aftermarket is "good enough". This is my first Toyota, so I will defer to the community and hope the senior members i.e. Mendel) that have performed this repair / replacement will chime in. My research (ChatGPT) indicates: OEM Toyota rear hub: Part numbers: 42450-47020 / 42450-02160 Price: ~$370 discounted (~$530 MSRP). Aftermarket: Typical $50–$100. Best aftermarket quality: Timken / SKF / NTN-type suppliers. Quality drivers: Metallurgy, sealing, precision, corrosion resistance, warranty/failure rate. Replacement Process Summary: Replacing the wheel bearing on a 2010 Toyota Prius involves removing the wheel, brake caliper, rotor, and the 4-bolt hub assembly (14mm bolts). Key tools include a 14mm socket, 21mm lug wrench, a 30mm 12-point socket for front axles, a hammer for removing the stuck hub, and a torque wrench (76 ft-lbs for lug nuts, 66 ft-lbs for hub bolts). Front Wheel Bearing Replacement (2010-2015) Preparation: Lift the car and secure with jack stands, then remove the wheel. Axle Nut: Unstake the axle nut and remove it using a 30mm 12-point socket and breaker bar. Brake Removal: Remove the 14mm caliper bolts and the brake caliper, supporting it with a bungee cord. Remove the brake rotor. ABS Sensor: Disconnect the ABS sensor cable to avoid damage. Remove Hub: Remove the four 14mm bolts holding the bearing assembly to the knuckle. Use a hammer to tap the old hub assembly off. Installation: Clean the area, apply anti-seize, insert the new bearing, and torque the hub bolts to 66 ft-lbs. Reassembly: Reinstall the rotor, caliper, and axle nut (ensure proper torque and staking). Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement (2010-2015) Preparation: Remove the wheel and the 10mm bolt securing the parking brake cable to create slack. Brake Components: Remove the 14mm caliper bolts and brake caliper, then remove the caliper bracket. Hub Removal: Remove the 14mm hub bolts and remove the ABS sensor. Replace Bearing: Tap the old bearing out with a hammer, clean the surface, apply anti-seize, and install the new bearing. Torque Specs: Torque the hub bolts to 66 ft-lbs and the caliper bracket bolts to 42 ft-lbs. Key Tips and Tools Parts: Replacement hub assemblies cost roughly $127–$271. Tools: 14mm, 21mm sockets, 30mm 12-point socket, hammer, torque wrench, and anti-seize. Safety: Always use jack stands and do not rely on a floor jack alone. ABS Caution: Be careful not to damage the ABS sensor plug.
I would not replace the other side just because this one went bad. I thought I had a bad FRONT hub (bearing) a couple years ago on my 2015 (turned out to be a bad tire making the noise). I installed a NAPA brand hub and have had no problems with it. I think it was about $110 if I'm remembering correctly. The oem Toyoya one was over $400......
Timken is a good after hub. I've had them on the rear for well over 100,000 miles. No issues. Do NOT go with a trg or other cheap hub. Unless you just like replacing them every 3-4000 miles. The BEST thing to do is replace them both. Since it is very likely were in the same batch when they were manufactured, it's likely the other one will fail shortly also. That doesn't mean it will, but........
In Geek, they have the same mean time before failure, where the mean is a kind of central point of a curve that can be kind of bell-shaped (possibly a weird bell that's wider on one side). That curve can be really squat and wide though; it's not strange for the gap between one failing and the next one to be years or tens of thousands of miles. During which, other things could happen that change your plans for the car.
