Carparts.com is selling this for $40. I just bought. Mine is hopelessly dogged out. Problem is I have is every one of the metal screws rusted out and broke. What's the best way to deal with this? I *can* drill out the screws but I'll destroy the threads. They're totally rusted together. I can put it on with stainless steel zip ties and the plastic clips. I've thought about drilling the screws out and just putting a bigger screw in, to heck with the threads. Anyone done this and have a better solution?
Drill them out and replace the screws with stainless steel rivet nuts. Use M6x1.0 flange bolts with 10mm hex heads equivalent to the originals. I'd coat the rivet nuts with JB Weld before inserting them to deter future corrosion.
I'd try carefully centre-punching, drilling pilot holes, and spinning them out with an extraction drill bit. There's six in total, two in a frontmost row, which also secure the smaller black-plastic panel immediately behind the painted front fairing, and two back about 6", interspersed with two push-in plastic fasteners. the rest are all plastic fasteners, mostly the same, with two larger exceptions (with grey heads), at the trailing end of the engine under panel. The metal bolts and plastic fasteners are itemized in the attached. With our '10 I've done all the oil changes, and apart from the first one, I've always taken the full engine underpanel off. This was every 6 months for the first 12 years, and yearly since (due to our very low usage). Doing this, I've gotten VERY familiar with those fasteners, learned how to finess the plastic ones out without breaking (and cleaned out the grit that can cause them to jam and break), and occasionally put a drop of oil on the threads of the bolts.When reinstalling the bolts I use a screwdriver-style socket driver, basically a torque limitter, just snug them firmly. (more info in the oil change link in my signature. On a phone turn it landscape to see signatures.) Appreciate that's not happening for a lot of owners, but that's one way to keep on top of it.
The holes for the nylon push in rivets are 7mm and are the perfect size for the M6 rivet nuts. Using rivet nuts, M6x1.0 flange bolts and 1/4 inch x 1 inch outer diameter neoprene back stainless steel washers will mean that the new plastic panel will never come off or tear off.
Is the 7mm diameter the majority case Georgina? There are a couple of fasteners at the back (the grey head ones) that are a mm or two larger diameter. That said, I've kept it stock, and with semi-frequent removal of that panel the fasteners have remained in good shape, had to replace maybe 3 so far. Ordered a complete replacement set (through Amayama) a few years back: Addendum, more info: (11) - 90467-07201: 7mm hole req'd (usual case) (2) - 90467-09227: 9mm hole req'd (at rear edge, with grey caps)
You're correct. There's two 9mm hole fasteners. The most important replacement has to be the rear trailing edge fasteners, since the plastic nylon ones are most likely to pull out, especially at the oil change door. Many of the oil change doors are torn off and missing. Having replaced those fasteners with rivet nuts and bolts, after 14 years, my oil change door is still intact.
