2015 w unclogged egr pipe at 115K miles

Googled, interesting:

 

exactly

 

The ones that make it "easy" aren't the ones you want. All you need is a couple of hundred in equipment and you can have it to work on your other AC items. Like gauge and vaccum, line cutter, flare tool. The ones that make it easy charge a lot more and you don't have anywhere near as much flexibility. This ACiq unit has a 12 year warranty. I bought a no name for our house and it's been flawless, approaching 3 years. For a new house, I want a premium brand like ACiq.

 

Please include pictures on HOW you installed that in your Prius!!!!
And WHY you did it!
Since cars use the engine coolant to heat the car, a heat pump is useless in a car.

 

Not in the Prius, just comparing a DIY project, daunting to most people, like a Prius EGR/waterpump/thermostat service is to a newbie. In both cases, I had my doubts going in. Had problems with both, my wife told me I'd failed on both . But worked my way through each of them alone with a bit of online help. All comes down to judgment of what you can and cannot do. Like I know not to even attempt to do a head gasket job by myself ... yet. That may change when I get my shop concrete in, and my car lift in place (later this year). I want to drive this Prius until the end of gas cars.

 

a prius prime has one

 

I see.....
With a lift, everything is easier...
The difficult part for me on the head gasket was getting the bolts in quick enough for the timing cover.
But it wasn't too bad.

 

You are 1000 times the mechanic I am, for sure. This last job stretched my mechanic skills to the limit, and I know that it was super simple. I'm gonna have to drive to Orlando to get a head gasket done if it happens anytime soon.

 

We had one diyer here that tore his engine down three times and never got it right. He finally changed the engine which, from a skills standpoint, was easier.

 

The Repair Manual stipulates a VERY tight time limit for this, with the Toyota spec'd form-in-place gasket. I noticed Gasket Masters used an alternate, Permatex Ultra-Black IIRC, with a more leisurely cure time. Only downside I think, you need to let it cure for a day, say before adding oil, or at the least before running the engine.

Full disclosure: just an arm-chair mechanic, never done a head gasket, hoping to never have to, but...

 

Also regarding timing chain cover install: one brilliant, DIY YouTuber printed out the repair manual diagram of the bolt locations and torques, near full-scale, taped it to cardboard, punched holes at each bolt location and pushed the correct bolts through the holes, ready to go.

 

I started with bicycles, and moved up....
Having the proper tools is very important.

Watch lot's of videos, read manuals. You'll get a lot different versions of doing something with the videos.
A lot are a waste of time you can FF through. But you can always learn something.

 

I took the install sequence pic from post #31, cut-and-pasted in the torque values (ft/lb). Handy as a reference in 8.5x11, and if you print it bigger, could service as the aforementioned "tape onto cardboard" and push the bolts into it".

Addendum: updated the attachment, had missed torque value (19 lb/bt) on bolt 24 (in sequence).

 

I'm thinking that's what I'm going to do when the time comes. Easier for me to drive to Orlando and pick up an engine. I do thank you for telling me how I can insure I'm getting a real JDM.

 

??
There's NO way to TRULY know you are getting a so called jdm motor. It's still a used motor of
unknown mileage. Buyer beware.

 

A bird in hand is worth two in the bush. With your engine you know it's history, compatibility. If I ever get to head gasket failure (which I doubt, considering the miles and care), I'll try pulling the head, armed with Toyota engine overhaul kit, and replacement head bolts.

 

The updated Toyota head gasket has the same exact crappy coating that wears away on the originals. The update appears to be new crappy coating on the parts of the gasket that are not affected. Ideal fix (for me) is Toyota kit (for everything but the actual head gasket), with the Fel-Pro head gasket itself. In practice I guess it doesn't really matter that much since it's unlikely you'll get another 200k from it.

 

The head gasket maybe gets a bad rap? Would a FelPro gasket fare any better, if it had been put in at factory. The engine is subjected to unforeseen overheating, due to the insufficiently tested EGR system. Anyway: even if you use the FelPro head gasket, I’d get the Toyota engine overhaul gasket kit, for the complete set of genuine Toyota gaskets.

 

There is a write up somewhere on the net where someone used a Gen 2 AC system in their VW. Way detailed electrical engineering skill set being the person designed and build his own AC Compressor controller board along with the swap.

Back to EGR Circuit, Intake Circuit and PCV Valve Circuit. A word to the wise; even if preaching to the choir, clean clean and always clean comes to mind like oil oil always oil. At least to me, better clean than not.

 

Clean is always good in an engine. The Prius 1.8s prior to the 2017-2021 gen3 production had many engineering flaws that were all designed out in the gen4 engine. We are talking cylinder wall with foam insulators to even out the temperature gradients. New geometry on the head and block mating surfaces.



Toyota admitted bad rings on the 2010-2014 Prius engines and changed the parts free if high oil consumption occurred during warranty. High consumption was defined as a quart every 1200 miles or worse, which almost never happened during the powertrain warranty.

All v wagons including 2015-17 are gen3. Overseas the v wagons (alphas and +) used gen3 engines through 2021 with success.

Toyota moved the gen4 egr intake to downstream of the cat in the 2016 Prius hatchback. This provides cleaner exhaust gas for recirculation. Even better piston and rings further reduced hydrocarbon blowby.

The gen3 pcv system also dumps oil fumes into a plastic intake manifold, creating a catch can of sorts which eventually can flow into a cylinder. This often fouls the plug and causes further damage, sometimes even hydrolocking. Reduced blowby and improved intake manifolds reduced this issue in later generations.



While the Corolla of the gen4 era had the same engine, the Prius is a stop start engine while the Corolla is not. As a result the gen3 1.8L Prius engine has frequent thermal cycling as the engine cools and heats up while driving. Sometimes cycling twenty, thirty or forty degrees many times during the drive cycle. The head bolts are steel while the block and head itself are aluminum. The head bolts and the block/head metals see significant thermal expansion cycles. The Corolla 1.8L stays at a consistent temperature and had no issues.

Gen4 added automated grill shutters and a secondary flow selector valve to help engine thermal management.