Dash lights don't come on. Tried YouTube fixes to no avail. It has come on before just to shut off again. I hear the dreadful brake pressurizing sound every few seconds constantly. We bought this car not long ago for cheap without carefully diagnosing any issues. It's noted to have been driven on a 10.5v triple A battery for quite some time. I'm wondering if that's what caused the electrical systems to fail. After watching a bunch of YouTube videos, am.i correct to think that it's a brake actuator going bad and a combination meter going bad? If so, is it worth fixing? It might be too pricey. The car has 120k miles, 2008, and perfect hybrid battery 54mpg+. I left it at a shop, still waiting to hear back. Any tips or advice is welcomed. Ps. I also know I can diy the combination meter capacitor and even the brake actuator but I have no experience doing large car jobs. (The capacitor change sound is fun but not the actuator).
You're not supposed to leave it at shops did you replace the 12 volt and get a 12 volt battery instead of a 10 and a half volt? Do you have all the amber lights on dash . For abs . Hearing do not matter
You can get the dashboard to come back on easily and then if you keep the car awake it won't go to sleep the dash that is . Usually you bring it home and try some stuff first before you haul it off to a shop because you might just get it working at the house . Was driving fine no dash . So if you remember how much gas you had you good
You probably got what you paid for if you paid a "cheap" price for it. There shouldn't be any 120k miles 2008 that's "cheap". Chances are the miles have been rolled back and the car has much higher mileage than what it's showing. A carfax should give you more information on it's history. As for the combination meter and brake actuator. Yes those are common failures on an older 2008. If you have no experience doing big car jobs, then you probably don't want to tackle an important part like a brake actuator. It requires special tools to bleed the brakes afterwords. I'm guessing you paid less than $3000 for the car. So if that's the case, the 2 repairs you are needing will total the car as it will cost you $3000 or more to address both problems at a shop. Even DIY, the brake actuator will cost $1500 or more just for the parts. Some people buy used, but I would not recommend anyone to have to do this repair twice, when it fails again.
Nah you're going to get on eBay and find you the correct code break actuator for 300 bucks it'll take you 2 hours with Walmart tools to put it in maybe a tad longer if you're that type. The CM monitor display you mite as well add 88 bux for outter vent covers . Pulling the dash and changing out the CM monitor is about a similar repair 2 hours you get one proper from Texas hybrids 175. New basically. You can do this easy peasy it all plugs up . What else have you got going on? You get er done . And ride a long time. I just picked up an 05 just like I wanted a grand.. white car . Dash is on for brakes . Braking great. Everything else is spot on no TPMS or p0420 nothing 234K
Get an autel maxi 200 scanner and post the trouble codes here. If the 12v made the car ready, it didn’t affect anything. Replace it before reading the codes
Won't unplugging the 12V erase the codes? I mean, not the ones that will come back because a part is still broken, but anything historical.
The B-codes refer to the Electronic AC compressor; another expensive fix. You need to concentrate on the 12V battery issue FIRST. When that gets low, you'll get phantom error codes everywhere. Then go after the CM, so you don't have to play games trying to start the car. Flush out the brake fluid system to ensure that debris in the DOT3 isn't jamming one of the valves open and causing that internal leak. That's how I would proceed and save up money for that eventual pump n actuator failure. That should give you enough time to figure out how much the car is worth to you and if you should dump in more money for repairs. Gas prices in Ca is only going to go UP; so keeping a reliable fuel sipping car may be worth it. Good Luck....
Well, all codes start with P, C, B, or U. Codes that start with B are for Body systems (not Powertrain or Chassis). One Body system is the HVAC. Toyota tends to use B14xy codes for that. The codes shown don't refer to the Electronic AC compressor. The one that is current refers to the electrical circuit of the refrigerant pressure sensor, and the two shown as history refer to the movable doors that control which vents the air comes out of, and whether fresh or recirculated air is drawn in. B1421 is kind of a special case, not really a 'trouble' code at all. You should just have that code any time you pull codes in the dark or in shade, and not have the code when you pull codes in strong sunlight. That just lets you decide whether the dash solar sensor is working right.