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Junk/scrap yard replacement. Get both console and harness; since it looks like it melted the connector on both ends.

 

If the harness is just a small one within the door, yes, getting that harness at a salvage yard and replacing it is easy.

If that connector is on some harder-to-replace harness (say, comes through into the door from the body, I have not checked this in the wiring diagram), then buying a repair terminal for that one position would be another solid option.

 

....dup

 

It appears that connector is part of a rather big harness that would involve connectors under the instrument panel and other connectors in the door.

Part 82152-47150


While the harness is easily available, I would be more likely to buy a switch assembly and replace the one mating connector on the harness.



Switch with cut harness
https://www.ebay.com/itm/177797303695?fits=Year%3A2004%7CModel%3APrius&_skw=2004+Prius+master+switch&epid=13042884725&itmmeta=01KKETXYW02ZCRP5V3P9QWV407&hash=item2


Complete Ebay harness
04-09 Toyota Prius Front Left Driver Side Door Wire Wiring Harness 82152-47150 | eBay

 

Yep; splice it in; if the harness replacement is too much work.
You can repin that single wire position in that harness, but I don't know if you have the skill level or fine tools to do that repair. It's delicate work, especially since that connector heated up and the plastic is likely very brittle now.

 

No need for alligator clip tool

Basics

 

I would also suggest ruling out a short to ground on the far side of that connector. Connectors fry like that for only two reasons (OK, there might be some others I have not considered):

1. it became loose and there was arcing between the contacts
2. there is a short in the circuit somewhere and the current through the burned contacts was too high, causing it to heat up and melt nearby plastic onto it, which then burns to a black carbon coating.

As examples of the latter, a wound component, like some resistors or a motor, can sometimes short between adjacent coils, taking most of the resistance out of the circuit, and so cranking the current way up. This may or may not blow a fuse when it happens.

Anyway, if such a short exists, after you fix this it will just burn up again. Probably you would rather avoid that!

 

Just wire-nut the connections together at varying lengths, so you don't have a big lump in one place. Zip-tie or electrical tape the bundle together and possibly zip-tie it down - so it doesn't rattle, rub, or get tangled in the window mechanism.

Whenever I see this, it's usually something spilled into/onto the control console and/or something fried on the control board. It's usually a sticky mess when you dig into it.

 

If that's an 18-pin connector, I would certainly rather re-pin and make one good wire splice than make a big bundle of 18 half-nice-personed splices, 17 of them fixing things that weren't broke.

Re-pinning does require a tool, one that pokes into the plastic connector shell to release the pin. The wiring diagram shows the shape and dimensions required. I got by for years just wiggling a small jeweler's screwdriver while cussing until it eventually let the pin go, but later on I took my Dremel tool to a steel cotter pin and ground it to the right shape and dimensions, and that works much better.

If you do buy a switch with the connector still attached and the wiring lopped off, you can, of course, get the one repair wire you need by releasing it from there. Then you can keep the one with the original color code. (When you buy a repair wire at the dealer, you get whatever color it happens to be.)

If the re-pinning in that connector shell really doesn't work because of the heat damage, then another option is to swap over the connector shell from the salvage part. That would require 34 more pin-releasing exercises, and making double- and triple-sure the wires all go to the right positions again, but would still avoid a big bunch of unnecessary splices.

If it seemed necessary to do that, I would definitely take the time to fashion (or buy) the correct pin-release tool; trying to release that many pins using the wrong tool and cussing would be nuts.

Also, be sure to study the picture in the online wiring diagram that shows how the connector locking works. Besides the individual lance for each pin to be released, there is usually also one overall lock for all pins, which also needs to be released in the way the picture will show.

 

There are specific pin extraction tools for every connector under the sun. Just trying to keep it simple. That connector heated up enough to melt the pin; so logic would conclude that the plastic around the pin is going to be brittle. If your not used to that kind of fine, miniature work; its easy to break something or create a short to the next pin over, because you accidentally punched a hole between the pin insulators.

 

I didn't know whether it would have been faster to get a set of pin-extraction tools for every connector under the sun and then find which one of those was right for the connector at hand, or just grind a cotter pin to the dimensions Toyota gave me, but what kinda made the decision for me was that I had a cotter pin and my Dremel tool right here.