Water pump replacement, ideal interval?

I like to look at this water pump like if it's a timing belt on a car with an interference engine. It will work fine until it breaks. Once it's broken, you may have to replace the engine at the same time. So the smarter thing would be just to replace it on a 2010, 14 year old car. Don't wait until it stops functioning.

This water pump replacement is normally a 1 time replacement for the life of the car. Unless you plan to drive the car past 300k miles, you'll have to do this replacement 1 time and it's a done deal.

 

Yeah and it's about a 45-minute job on a bad day too unless you've got a lot of cleaning to do and housekeeping and what have you under the hood that has been neglected for a long time It's very quick and if that kind of mileage with the head gasket problems these engine have any inkling of any kind of overheating is not a good thing and the ZFXE engine a water pump is cheap some kind of insurance I would guess of course you could always just take yours off take the back plate off pull the impeller out and have a look if everything looks nice and clean you could put it back together and stick it right back on there I haven't seen any nice clean ones come apart yet even in nice clean cars with 150 plus the impeller outer plastic is starting to crack and it's just a matter of time until it curls and starts impeding the speed of the impeller when it's called upon.

 

When it fails, if ever. Why would you focus on that one thing?

 

Every 100k miles seems optimum to me, based on reports here about them failing around 150k. Could coincide with engine coolant change.

 

I just changed my Water Pump on my 2013 Prius after 150K Miles, out of curiosity I asked the technician what the Water Pump looked like, and he said it looked good and wasn't leaking or anything, kinda kicking myself for changing it now, but the car is old AF, and I can sleep a bit better on having it changed.

 

Rather safe than sorry /

 

My 2010, with 170k miles, has shown a P261B code on my scangauge. The dealer's equipment indicates a bad water pump but they are on back order. It will be a few days till it comes in. Price for part is almost $500.

 

My water pump is accessible since I have the entire intake removed. At 197k miles should I replace the entire water pump or just the impeller? Stainless or plastic impeller? Also are there 2 water pumps on this car?

 

I wouldn’t hesitate it, with 197k miles (see post 6).

Impeller versus whole unit replacement is a tough call, the former might be worth a try. I’ve only heard of a plastic replacement impeller; have you seen a metal offering? If replacing the whole unit, I’d have no concerns about using the Aisin WPT-190, from a reputable source. For me in Canada that’d likely be Amayama.

there is another water pump for the inverter, access is a maddening bear. It’s “maybe”longer lasting, less taxed? Don’t think I’ve heard of a single failure here.

@NutzAboutBolts videos #28 & #29 (engine and inverter water pump replacements respectively) here are very helpful.

 

Im sorry, to clarify I was referring to the rotor being metal, the impeller is still plastic. Engine coolant is in great condition, likely that has favored its long life. Sadly if I take it out for inspection it will cost me a gasket.... unavoidable and wise to just do it I guess.

Amazon.com: KUTTOLE Upgrade Stainless Steel Electric Water Pump Rotor Compatible with Toyota Prius 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 Replacement for Lexus CT 2010-2016, 161A0-29015 : Automotive

 

It really is a gamble to replace the rotor only as the quality is hard to gauge. I replaced the rotor on my daughter's car with 230k miles on it now, but only because I was testing it. I didn't expect the engine to go on much longer, soon needing a head gasket. And I was going to change the entire water pump during a head gasket job. But so far the rotor and the head gasket has held up.

I do believe the head gasket failures probably have a lot to do with when the water pump rotor fails and doesn't cool the engine properly. Is it worth the $200 gamble on replacing just the rotor?

 

Visual inspection on electronic components doesn't tell you much. That's like saying the electrons looks good. Physical damage to the mechanical components, you can visualize. The electronic side needs to be indirectly tested with expensive equipment. That's why a preventive replacement is usually cheaper.
I would spend ~$30 on a P10 HUD to monitor the ECT and set the alarm for 210F. That way you know when that electronic water pump hick-ups and avoid a head gasket issue. This way you can pull over; let it cool down and see if it does it again. Sometimes a shut-down, restart will get that pump working properly again, but I wouldn't gamble a engine rebuild on that. That's the nature of electronic gremlins. That's why large trucks has a bunch of gauges. A good driver can see issues before they become real problems.

Just my two cents......